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worth changing to 4/10 gears?

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Formula 1 HELIX Three Camshaft

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me i would dump the 1300 into transmission unpgrades and it would hold up better if you did decide to chip it later on then you would be ready just my . 02
 
My 04 4x4 1ton Single Wheel 70 Cruise On In Od Rpms 1900 2000 3:73 Gear Feels Lugy Pulling 12000lbs Push It Up To 75 Mph Pulls Strong Or Put It In 3rd Gear At 60 Mph Pulls Great This Is In 5 & 6 % Hills Now My 2000 With 4:10 Gears 70 Cruise On In Od Pulled Great 3rd It Is 50mph My 2001 3:55 Gears Will Not Pull In Od And Cruise On It Is A 3rd Gear Puller At 60 My 94 Just Plain Jane 4x4 4:10 Gear Is Also 3rd Gear Puller No Cruise Just Foot Power At 40mph All My Trucks Get 17 To 18 Mpg Driving 70 To 80mph Hwy I Would Just Due A Sun Coast Converter And Vave Body Trans, Rear Diff, Fuel, Egt, And A Exhaust Temp Gauges And If You Fell For More Brakes Due A Pac-brake An Drive It For 400000 Miles And Give It Some Of Your Own Show And Shine Stuff
 
steved said:
I'm looking to do just the opposite... I don't tow and want to get rid of the 4. 10s for added mpg gains...



As these guys stated, your transmission will be much happier with 4. 10s.



steved



Maybe you should have Dward drive to your place and swap out the whole axles. That would be a lot easier than swapping gears... a day job at most. If I was anywhere near I'd bring the beer! ;)
 
dward said:
Steved,

Yes, I am talking about running in drive for those rpms, the 03 H. O did come with an auto. I have the 3:73 rearend.



I meant what rear do you have... 10. 50AAM or the 11. 50AAM??



steved
 
I'd stay with the 3. 73's and drop it out of OD when pulling hills, etc. I have 3. 73's pulling 11K+ through many mountinous areas, figure I'm close to 20K GCVWR (fuel, equipment, loaded 5vr and passengers) and have no problems and plenty of power. Just my opinion, but think 4. 10's are a little steep UNLESS your pulling heavy all the time.
 
I pull an 11K skid loader. I have an '05 and just put it in tow/haul. It won't shift into o/d until about 65. It pulls strong at about 70 mph. I am not in a mountainous area however. I have some small hills but no mountains. I am very happy with the management provided in tow/haul. I have the 3. 73 gears.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I feel it has plenty of power when I shift down to drive (3rd), but was concerned with the stress placed on the trans working at the lower rpm. The engine provides plenty of power, but I want my trans to last. Would a TC and valve body give it the longevity and be worth the investment?

I guess worst case, I'll just wait for the trans to fail and replace it with a quality aftermarket trans.
 
dward said:
Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I feel it has plenty of power when I shift down to drive (3rd), but was concerned with the stress placed on the trans working at the lower rpm. The engine provides plenty of power, but I want my trans to last. Would a TC and valve body give it the longevity and be worth the investment?

I guess worst case, I'll just wait for the trans to fail and replace it with a quality aftermarket trans.



Yes, the upgrades will hold, but the bottom line is if you're loaded 99% of the time, why not swap out your axles with someone that has 4. 10's and want's your higher gears? I am a strong proponent of the 3. 73's for anyone who tows even fairly oftern, but if you tow or carry a cabover and loaded over 50% of the time, get the lower gears. You also get more compression braking for that weight. The transmission mods are still a must, IMO, but like you said. . just drive it until it poops, then put it back together the right way!
 
I had the same question that started this thread, but in the context of a tire change. I have a 04. 5 3500 SWR 4x4 auto w/ 3. 73s and would not change ratios based on my experience with a 20K combined weight - it's fine. However, I would like to switch to an approx. 35" tire, now that load range E is available in such a size. My rough calculations suggest that swapping to 4. 10s would almost exactly duplicate the stock effective final drive ratio. Leaving the stock gears with 35s" would pull the effective ratio down around 3. 30 or so, I would guess. Any comments on real world experience in this scenario? With the CTD's low-down grunt, I'm not sure that my heavy towing would suffer too much without a gear swap. From my experience with gassers, it would be a mandatory gear swap!



Thanks,



Rich
 
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