Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Would love to kill....

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission water in front D60

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 5th gear replacment

Status
Not open for further replies.
someone! anyone! Anyone who owns up to the rubber fuel line under the plenum and behind the fuel filter. I just replaced the #%$@^ thing. It took me a total of 5 hours to get it off because it was stuck at the top and then when I put it back on the clamp stripped and took me almost another 3 hours to get that one off. ARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG! Ok, I feel better now. ( but won't take me long to get spooled up again. :-laf )

WD
 
The tool that you need is called a "tool mate machine" its a squeeze handle socket driver with a foot long flexible 1/4 inch drive. I used it to change my hoses. I have done it twice in the 10 years that I have owned the truck. the second time it was a two hour ordeal. I found out after I did it that time that someone on the TDR sells a kit that contains fuel hoses that wont crack as easily as the rubber crap. I guess I will use that the third time that I have to do it.
 
It's a lot easier if you take the starter, air intake plenum, and fuel filter off. If you have vacuum brakes take the master cylinder off the booster and lean it toward the fender. I don't know if that will work with the hydro boost brakes or not. The last time I changed my hoses (used Larryb's that time) it took about a half hour.
 
Did mine a year ago and still cant figure out why dodge went from the metal fuel modules stubs at the tank to nylon flex and quick connects then to metal again then to stainless braided then to metal then to rubber then back to metal . What a mess dodge created for us.
 
Guess I was lucky, but it wasn't that bad of a job for me. Only had to remove the fuel filter. Had to crawl underneath to connect the new hose for the lower end of the return line and that was it. Did everything else from the top.



Having long arms helps to, I'm sure. :D



Got the LarryB kit, as well as a new boot for the shut-of solenoid.
 
WD you did good, only 5 hours and lost your patience a little. Two years ago when I change mine on the 96 I had at the time, I broke my right foot and a couple of ribs on my right side when I slipped off the front bumper of the truck. Remember, when you think you have it bad, someone else has it worse.
 
The first time took me about three hours. The second time was easy because I was replacing the clutch.

That is an ideal time to do it!

Rog
 
Wow, some had it worse than me and others used their brains and did it easer than me. Well..... at least I didn't break any body parts. RBrunson had it real bad. Next time I'll think twice before I loose my patience.

WD
 
WDaniels,



I know what you mean. I had a HARD time when I replaced the rubber hose. I lost my patience a few times. WORST repair I have ever done. I think it took me 8 hours.
 
Last edited:
why not just by-pass the factory route and run the new line out and around the pump? who says it has to be behind everything? works fine on my truck and you can change the thing in a "FEW" minutes.
 
I replaced mine a couple of years ago and found that removing the starter and disconnecting the front drive line gives ample room to reach up and do it all from the underside.

Someone said to cut the original hose clamps to make removal easier but those clamps are a lot better than the ones you get at the local hardware store. I kept mine and re-used them.

New ones of the same or better quality can be bought but they are expensive. The reason is that they are made with a shield, with rounded edges, so they don't cut into the rubber when you tighten them.

When I had the dealer replace my transmission lines they used one of the cheap, 1/4" wide gear type clamps on the front hose where it connects to the cooler. They tightened it to the point where it almost stripped. On one of our trips back east, I noticed oil on the front fender well and found that hose leaking bad. the clamp had popped open and fluid was gushing out. I was able to get another clamp on that held it until I got home where I replaced it with a good one.
 
My last hose episode was last winter during our worst snow of the year. I'd been plowing less than an hour, with 4 or so to go when the return line cut loose. I limped back home and plunged into the repair. Luckily, I had a Larry B kit on hand... just in case.



I have always done the replacement from the top. It's an ugly job, and could easily turn into a religious experience. :-laf One tip gleaned from TDR posts is to loosen the master cylinder. It's not much help, but IMO makes an impossible job merely improbable. I've thought of RBrunson's scenerio every time I've been wedged in there, but thankfully have only ended up bruised, and not broken.



Lynn
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top