Would you turn your rear rotors at 75K?

[MojaveJoe]

Want to replace the rear pads myself, but wondering if I should turn the rotors or wait another 75K for the next rear brake job?



The rotors have plenty of meat left on them and have never been turned before. They are smooth, and have no defects.



Should I just put the OEM shoes on and forget it?

Do I need to replace the anti-rattle springs?



I will be towing 12K all summer, but the trailer brakes take up roughly half or more of the stopping work.



Thanks for your advice and/or experiences.

Joe

 

[georgej]

Joe



My experience has been if the rotors aren't warped and causing pedal pulsing just replace the pads. Drive easy a couple of weeks to mate them to the rotors and you'll be good to go!



George

 

[Nate]

Any time you put new pads you should turn the rotors so the new pads will bed in properly. I used do brakes in a shop, so I'm not just pulling this out of my ***.

 

[DFrank]

if they are not pulsing, dont shave 'em. I am on my third set of pads at about the same mileage and did not turn them either time. They are a real ***** to get off by the way.

 

[rbattelle]

I don't want to belittle Nate's contribution, but like DFrank and georgej I never turn the rotors - just replace the pads. What Nate says may be technically "better"... I just don't do it.

[Actually, even if the rotors are warped I won't turn them. If they're warped really bad, I'll replace them. If they're just a little warped (pedal pulsates) I leave them alone. ]

Ryan

 

[DGoyer]

I have been running one ton trucks and van's for many years, It's always better for new pads to be against a newly turned rotor. Most rotors get a slight ridge an both sides, turn it smooth and everyone is happy

 

[MickeyMiller]

Your rear pads are worn enough to warrent replacement? I looked at mine at 86K miles and I have a LOT of pad left, even have 50%+ left on the front pads. I plan on changing the fronts at 100K (just being conservative... kinda like just using one square of toilet paper... ), I'll look at the rears again around 125K.

 

[MojaveJoe]

Interesting how stick drivers have far less pad wear, but not that surprising, as most downshift instead of braking, maybe 75% of the stopping maneuver.
And e-brakes help this wear issue a lot too.

Also noteworthy that many do not turn rotors, when replacing pads. On the rears I could understand how not turning would not really yield much difference in braking ability, since the rears do far less work than the fronts.

Still undecided about turning my rears at 75K. May come down to if I can get the rears off or not.

Does anyone have any tricks for removing these sticky/rusted on rotors?

 

[Nate]

At the very least, if the rotor is ok shape I would take some fine sandpaper, like 400-600 grit and sand it down to remove the glazing.

 

[MLisle]

I never turn the rotors, but I do measure them and I will replace them when they get to thin.

 

[JHardwick]

If I owned a brake shop, I'd tell you that you need to turn the rotors. However, I've got 300,000 towing miles on my '03 and have never turned the rotors. If you havn't let your pads go to the point where the rotor is ground up, or if you have no pulsation in the pedal ... ... ... ... I say throw the new pads in there and go!

 

[mcsinfl]

I just did my fronts at around 55k, and had the same thoughts. I just sanded the rotors to remove glaze, as was suggested (no visible grooving of any significance). I figured if I had pulsing in the brakes after I was finished, I would pull them and have them turned. Didn't need to, the brakes feel great.

 

[100 Proof]

My experience has been if the rotors aren't warped and causing pedal pulsing just replace the pads. Drive easy a couple of weeks to mate them to the rotors and you'll be good to go!

This is what I do with the exception of driving easy for the first 2 weeks. I will always do 3 to 4 panic stops from from speed during my check-out drive after completing the work to seat things in whether I have turned the rotors or not.



Having said that, as long as the rotors are in spec and not damaged, I don't believe any of the approaches discussed in this thread would be dangerous.



Just for the record, I used to do this for a living and held every ASE certification there was.



100 Proof

 

[rbattelle]

I will always do 3 to 4 panic stops from from speed during my check-out drive after completing the work to seat things in whether I have turned the rotors or not.

That's interesting... I do the same thing, but not because I'm trying to seat everything. I do it as a safety check to ensure the job I've done is roadworthy.



Ryan

 

[100 Proof]

That's interesting... I do the same thing, but not because I'm trying to seat everything. I do it as a safety check to ensure the job I've done is roadworthy.



Ryan

That is, of course, the primary purpose of the check-out drive. I always do it in a place and traffic situation where I could safely manage the vehicle if the brakes (or whatever repair/mod I just made) failed for some reason.



A side effect is that the pads or shoes do get seated and I then advise the vehicle operator to driver normally after that.



I've had great success with that method for over 30 years. I figure you must have as well for however long you've been at it.



100 Proof

 

[LesStallings]

One brake manufacturer recommends doing the break in proceedure to include a cooling off period before stopping the car. They want you to let the rotors cool before letting the vehicle sit. They don't want really hot rotors sit stationary against new pads. Apparently after the break in period it is not so important.

 

[CStockton]

If the rotors looked ok I'd replace the pads and be done with it.

If you really need something to do I'd suggest flushing the brake fliud.

 

[BHolm]

If the rotors looked ok I'd replace the pads and be done with it.

If you really need something to do I'd suggest flushing the brake fliud.

Flushing brake fluid is something we should all be doing at least every other year, and probably annually if towing in hilly or mountainous country.

Often the pulsing you feel isn't warped rotors at all but pad material transfer to the rotor making a grabby spot. When I was road racing we would do a cool down lap, no brakes, then coast into the pit slowly, roll to a stop and not touch the brakes. The idea was to keep the pads as far away from the rotors as possible as they cooled to avoid material transfer or hot spots on the rotors that might cause warping. Our brakes in these trucks never get that hot, but I think the theory is sound.

I also would not turn rotors, especially without good reason. It removes material/mass which is detrimental to braking performance. The material in stock pads is such that you don't really need to do much but start driving. High performance pads normally require a heat cycle (heat them up, let them cool) to get the best life and stopping power.

 

[rbattelle]

Flushing brake fluid is something we should all be doing at least every other year, and probably annually if towing in hilly or mountainous country.

Some of us have tried that, and failed. Incompetent design, as usual.



Ryan

 

[MojaveJoe]

Just an update since I started this pretty good thread... and thanks all for your great input.

I had the dealer do the rear brakes for me after I bought the pads from them and ran out of time. They of course turned the rotors which were clean and smooth still with about 3/16" pad left. One was wearing very uneven and only had 1/16" on one end. I think I could have gotten by w/o turning the rotors, but obviously something was hangin up. No caliper rebuild was done.

The stock pads had a bevel on both ends which apparently was a way to identify when pad replacement was due. The new OEM pads had no bevel but rather a metal scratcher off one end of each pad. Which would be fine if the pad wore evenly, but not great if it wore unevenly. As I recall neither pad was riveted to the backing plate. Rather holes in the backing plate had pad material in them, presumably to stop them from moving and avoid the whole rivet issue.

FWIW . . Here's a pic of my stock front pad showing the bevel on the end.

(Don't take anything here as gospel, your vehicle may vary, and all statements expressed or implied will be denied )