2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Woweeeeeee!!! New clutch slave...BOMBed?

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Well I bled it more last night and worked a few bubbles out. It works better now but not as good as I would like. If it doesn't get better in a few days I'll probably put the original back in. It shifts like normal now but still engages with the pedal only about 1. 5-2" off the floor.

I may possibly have a marginal master cylinder. The check valve or whatever may not seal off quickly enough to get a full stroke, or leaking slightly. I looked and there is NO adjustment here, so there is nothing you can do to "adjust" the clutch #ad


Rob, if you have some time, come on by! I will send you directions.

Vaughn

 

[ramman]

What holds the line on the slave cylinder?I thought it was a plastic line of some kind,just trying to learn for future reference,ya just never know!!!

[This message has been edited by ramman (edited 05-10-2001). ]

 

[rickhans]

Now that it has been a few days since you-all put the new cylinder in, are they functioning ok, and the pedal is not too low. It sounds like it is tricky getting it bled. After proper bleeding, how far up does the clutch engage?

Does anyone see any warranty implications?
And, where exactly is the cylinder located? I plan to switch mine out and hopefully my left foot will stop hurting.

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98. 5 24V QC 4x4 SB 3:54 5sp

 

['956Wheel]

I have a concern about getting this bigger slave cylinder. If your slave cyl is larger, like the NAPA one, it takes more fluid to move it the same distance as the stock one. . right? The master cylinder cannot increase its output so the bigger slave cyl moves less thus changing where disengage/engage occurs. Humm, now I'm not sure I should get the new, bigger slave cylinder.

I would like to hear the bros. reply.

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9535hundred

 

[MikeR]

Rick,
The cylinder is still holding up fine so far after two weeks. My original only lasted 2500 miles after I installed my new clutch,so I really won't know until I put more miles on the unit.

statland,
I'm no engineer,but I guess it all depends on how much the fluid compresses. You could be right about the output of the master cylinder which might explain why the clutch now engages more toward halfway of pedal travel rather than at the top of the pedal travel. But with the stock clutch engage way at the top,we both know there's alot of useless pedal travel. I still have plenty pedal travel until the clutch engages.

To me the same theory of yours would apply to guys that are putting in bigger 3500 wheel cylinders in a 2500 trucks. Same master output,but now more fluid volume. All those guys have been successful.

-Mike

 

['956Wheel]

Mike, The purpose in using hydralic fluid is because it does not compress. I will never question success so I think I will got for this bigger cylinder... the only problem is Mom will drive it! She has a 4Runner with 5 speed and the clutch is a real marshmellow.

Do you know if Napa's part # 360-051 is the one I need for a '95 3500? There is nothing worse than a lazy parts man!

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9535hundred

 

[MikeR]

360-051 is listed for the 94-99 5spd. My early 6spd uses the same clutch as the 5spd,but the hole in the slave cylinder where the hydraulic line goes in was a hair too small for some reason. I had to ream out the hole to 1/4" for the line to fit. I don't know yet of the hole has to be modified for the 5spds. Just giving you a heads up.

-Mike

 

[BIG BOB]

360-051 is a 1/2 ton slave cylinder

Yes it is true according to Napa the 360-051 is for a 1998 1/2 ton truck.



My slave cylinder has been acting up. Sometimes it will engage about 2-3" off the floor and other time it will be close to the top where it usually releases. I thought I'd better get it replaced before it totally let loose.



The Napa book says that the 1999 and 1998 Ram2500 with Cummins and 5-speed takes Napa part #360-085.



I compared the two! The 360-051 is much larger in diameter than the 360-085. After comparing them I opted for the 360-051 because of the larger cylinder. Don't mind having a little less to push on.



Here is another strange thing;



360-051 $72. 00 list (with discounts I got it for $59. 56 including tax!)



360-085 $106. 00 list!



I'll put it in tomorrow, and will report back.

 

[MikeR]

Hmm,that's odd on the listing. When I bought mine I told the guy I wanted it for a '96 3/4 diesel 5spd. In this case,bigger is better!



4400 miles on it which means it's held up longer that the stocker.

 

[Sled Puller]

How are these still working out???





Gene

 

[BIG BOB]

Mine is working great! Just like it is suppose to.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Guys,



What kind of fastener or clip attaches the line to the back of the slave cylinder?



Is it reuseable?

 

[nps]

HEMI,



The line is attached by a single rolled pin even though two holes are in the slave cylinder. The pin engages a shoulder on the line. The pin can be pushed out and reused.



My pin backed out with 8K miles on the truck. I put a piece of safety wire through the center of the rolled pin, and also put a large cotter pin through the second hole. Strongly suggest you do the same after you push out the pin.



BTW - who is that in your avatar?



Neil

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Thanks nps.



The avatar is Sigourney Weaver from 1979's "ALIEN". She is about 26 in this picture.



IMO , The best The sci-fi horror movie ever made.



Thanks again

 

[Dbonnecarrere]

MikeR

This may be a little off the subject, but I hope that maybe one of

ya'll might be able to help me. I have a bone stock '98 12v and I

just had the clutch replaced by my dealer. He found the original

clutch to be worn while he was replacing the rear main seal which

had a slow leak. Anyway the pedal has MUCH less resistance than

it did before and the new clutch seems to engage/disengage with

the pedal almost to the floorboard. It kind of feels like I remember a worn out clutch feeling like (about 35 years ago on an old Rambler). You seem to be happy about your clutch engaging/disengaging close to the floor so I'm hoping you can educate me on this subject. Any advice will be appreciated, as I will be bringing it back to the dealer on Monday. Can the pedal

travel be adjusted of am I stuck with this (to me) sloppy feel.

Thanks



back to the dealer with my concerns.

 

[Dbonnecarrere]

This is a test

 

[nps]

Debonne. .



There is NO adjustment with these clutches. The service manual repair procedure is R&R of the entire sealed assy. The bleed procedure listed in this thread is hit and miss at best unless IMO you remove the master and slave and make sure you get all restrictions and downturns out of the line.



The two things affecting pedal pressure is hydraulic force and the pressure plate resistance.



The difference in 'feel' could be the pressure plate. Did they replace it along with the disk?



The engagement near the floor is probably air in the line. You may want to print out this thread and take it to the shop because DC won't tell them anything except R&R.





HEMI - interesting avatar and now perfectly clear. Thought maybe you had a hot crew chief.

 

[JHerrlich]

When my hydraulic line popped off my slave cylinder, I had to bleed my clutch system. I got all the air I could out, and it still had to go the the floor just to shift, even then the clutch was still slightly engaged. If you have the patience to deal with it, it'll get better over time as the air works to the master cylinder. I didn't do anything special to it, and it works just like it used to now.

 

[MikeR]

When the dealer replaced your clutch there's no reason why any of the clutch fluid should have been drained out. Simply put,it's just a different feeling clutch... they do that. Just like when the trucks are new,your clutch will break in and that pedal should go back closer to the "top engagement" like your last one was.



-Mike

 

[nps]

Mike,



Agree there is no reason that fluid 'should have' drained out.



Many things happen at dealers that should have NOT happened.