Wrong Truck?

[RWetmore]

I may have purchased the Wrong truck! Assuming 7300# for the truck and 14,100 for the 5'er - 21,400 GCVWR. Maybe (probably) should have a 3500 HO 6 spd.

Question: Pac Brake or E-brake - $600, what is cost (approx) of Bill K's TC/VB and trans upgrade? Would I be better off trading (only 1600 miles) for an '02 3500 6 spd or upgrading current truck.

If cost of upgrades equal cost of new - ?? I don't know.

Any opinions/help?

 

[Tom W]

I suggest you upgrade with DTT mods, you'll love it. I would guess about $3000 for everything, including the brake but talk to Bill for what mods you need and price. You really won't need any power upgrades but it sure makes it more fun to drive.

Good luck, Tom

 

[RustyJC]

Generally speaking, 5ver pin weights are about 20% of the total weight of the trailer. Therefore, using that assumption for the moment, 20% of 14,100 lbs equals 2,820 lbs pin weight.



7,300 lbs laden weight for the truck + 2,820 lbs pin weight equals 10,120 lbs being carried by a truck with a GVWR of 8,800 lbs. As is typical for 3/4 ton trucks towing large 5vers, the problem is usually the truck's GVWR being exceeded before GCVWR is exceeded.



Rusty

 

[SOLER]

RWetmore



If you are contemplating converting your 2500 to a dually, I have a lot of info on it. Though I haven't actually done it yet, I have done all but buy what I needed.



Arrowcraft kit 350: includes 6 steel wheels, 4 trim rings (steel, whereas the OEM are plastic), front and rear dually adapters, and fenders (which are better than the factory, IMHO) ~$1600. New tires (6) ~$1000-1200.



I looked at trading my '01 truck for a '01 identical to mine, except dually. Trade in, they would give me $29K for mine with 19k miles, and $39K for the new one. Granted, if I sold mine for what it is worth, I could get the new one for $34K. That is still a $2K-$3K difference, plus I would have to take all my goodies off, and put on the new truck. If you trade and get a '02 model, there won't be as good of rebates.



I have heard (and Arrowcraft claims) that their product is stout. Your axle is the same (stucturally) as one on a 3500.



The only reason I haven't done the conversion is I have decided not to get a new trailer, therefore don't need it now.



Good luck.



SOLER

 

[Fireman]

In your position I would be more comfortable with a 3500. My wife is wants me t get a new truck, but upgrades would be much cheaper than trading. If you trade the best you can hope to to get is whosale, so it would really cost you. You may be able to find a used '01 with about the same options and milage and make a better trade. That is what I am trying to do.

Fireman

 

[RByford]

RWetmore



This is my first reply to a post, but since I just went through the same thing I thought I would give it a shot. I had 01 2500 4x4 auto and was pulling a 28', 5er. I never felt comfortable pulling with the auto, and with 3. 54 gears it wouldnt pull in OD under 70 mph. I considered the trans. upgrades and maybe some other mods but that still wouldn't allow me to have an exhaust brake that I really wanted. So to make a long story short I bought a 3500 4x2 ETH/DEE and had a Jacobs exhaust brake installed.

I have 5300 mi. on it now with about 1500 towing, I really like my dually, it handles the trailer with ease and makes towing a pleasure instead of drudgery. It ended up costing me about 3k to switch trucks but I am glad I went this route, I would do it again in a heartbeat. Sorry for so long but had to reply Roy,

 

[DarrellB]

Worried about #'s

You guys are too worried about #'s. If you feel comfortable pulling the trailer than you should be fine, put a good set of D or E rated tires on the 3/4 ton and tow with it. I have had 34,750 behind mine and it did just fine, and 4,800lbs was over the bed of the truck, but I do have the overloads and swaybar. Make sure your trailer brakes work, and you use them and you should be just fine. Those #'s are set by DC's lawyers to keep them out of trouble. The only time I have ever been on my overload springs is when we hooked the truck up to my friends new house trailer 80' by 16', wiskey makes you do strange and stupid thinks but I love it soooooo much



Thats my 2cents worth. ( It really isn't worth that )



Later

Big D

 

[**ICEMAN**]

Originally posted by SOLER

RWetmore







Arrowcraft kit 350: includes 6 steel wheels, 4 trim rings (steel, whereas the OEM are plastic),

OEM's are stainless steel

 

[RustyJC]

Re: Worried about #'s

Originally posted by DarrellB

You guys are too worried about #'s. If you feel comfortable pulling the trailer than you should be fine, put a good set of D or E rated tires on the 3/4 ton and tow with it. I have had 34,750 behind mine and it did just fine, and 4,800lbs was over the bed of the truck, but I do have the overloads and swaybar

For your sake, I pray that you never find yourself in an accident. I guarantee you that, regardless of apparent fault, a sharp opposing lawyer will be "paying attention to the numbers", and if you're knowingly running overloaded, will take everything you now or ever will have.



Imagine running into a loaded school bus, regardless of who had the right of way. 44 kids = 44 lawsuits claiming you were criminally negligent because, due to running overloaded, you could not stop in time.



Each one of us have to make our own decisions, but I don't believe I'm "too worried about numbers. " Rather, I prefer to believe that I'm making a prudent, reasonable, responsible decision by operating my rig within manufacturer's ratings.



Good luck - you're relying on it more than you realize.



Rusty

 

[RWetmore]

Appreciate all the comments.

I don't really want to add-on duals - and I REALLY don't want to change to a 6 spd with current truck.

Just happened to ask a local dealer what the cost dif would be - everything else the same - to go 3500 6 spd - would you believe $10,500. Don't believe I'll be seeing him soon!

I'll try the Dodge guy in Dothan and see what he says.

May just go ahead and put gauges on and if I ever get to the NW, go see Bill K. Unless he has an installer locally.

Thanks for the help.

Roy, if I could find one for $3500 - I'd hop on it NOW!

 

[DarrellB]

RustyJC, I was just posting my opinion on the firts post. A few hundred pounds here and there is not going to hurt the truck or make it unsafe.



I also want you and everyone else to know I have never put anyone in danger or been involved in an accident with my truck. If I did not use my truck to pull these loads I would have to buy one of those with wings on them and then we would see some accidents, no mail box within a 50miles of the farm would be safe.



When I haul most of the heavier loads they are short trips from the field to the barn, usually round bales about 13 or 15 just depending on which trailer I have.



The roads I run are narrow and barely have room for my truck and a car to pass much less one with wings. I like my truck and would never trade it for a duelly, 4 tires are expensive I would hate to buy 6



And for the lawyers Bring it On. If they want what I got the will have to take it by force. Got a shotgun, rifle, and a 4wheel drive and a country boy can survive. ( sorry listning to a little Hank while typing. )



Not trying to hurt anybody's feelings or start a typing war, mainlly because my typing skills suck as with my spelling.



Later

Big D

 

[RByford]

R Wetmore



I sent you an E-Mail, also I may have given a wrong phone # for Chaprell Dodge the # is (580) 332-9400 thanks Roy

 

[MUDDY]

Originally posted by RustyJC

Generally speaking, 5ver pin weights are about 20% of the total weight of the trailer. Therefore, using that assumption for the moment, 20% of 14,100 lbs equals 2,820 lbs pin weight.



7,300 lbs laden weight for the truck + 2,820 lbs pin weight equals 10,120 lbs being carried by a truck with a GVWR of 8,800 lbs. As is typical for 3/4 ton trucks towing large 5vers, the problem is usually the truck's GVWR being exceeded before GCVWR is exceeded.



Rusty

the axles and springs are the same for 2500 and 3500. the 3500 gives you 2 more tires.

the 4 tires on the 2500 gives you a tire combo rating of 12,000 lbs, at 3,000 lbs a piece. 10120 gvw still has a margin of nearly 1900 lbs, as far as tires are concerned. i would not worry about it at that truck weight. the 2500 series is under rated. just dont overload the tires.



i am constantly loaded over 11,000 lbs gross with my 2500 but cant use a dually for off road in the rocks and mud and ruts.



how would it be to upgrade these trucks with the 19. 5 wheels and tires with a 14 ply rating. they would have a better capicity than the 10 ply. still not as stable as a drw but would have the capacity. a lot better than trading trucks for rwetmore, and a better idea for off road camping rigs.



mm

 

[pwr2tow]

I may be wrong (it's been known to happen) but the 2500 can have a dana 70 or 80 axles, the 3500 has the dana 80 axle.

Ron

 

[Extreme1]

2500 Automatic = Dana 70

2500 5 or 6 speed = Dana 80

3500 = Dana 80

 

[FAB]

Making a dually out of a 2500 is fine, but you're still stuck with the 8800# GVWR, not to mention smaller brakes and frame. My '97 3500 frame was 1 inch taller (between the cab and rear axle) than a 2500. Just my $. 02

 

[RedRam1]

RWetmore,



Good luck in resolving your 2500 vs. 3500 dilema. I hope you can upgrade your current rig to suit your requirements, or upgrade to a comparable 3500 without breaking the bank.

On a COMPLETELY unrelated topic (this is after all the "Other" forum)! I noticed in your signature that you own a '98 Grand Caravan Sport, my wife has the same vehicle. We purchased it new in 5-98 & now have 73K miles on the clock, it's been a pretty good vehicle except for the #$%#&* serpentine belt tensioner. The first one went at around 50K miles; the belt started squeaking so I replaced it, the new one squeaked to, and before I had a chance to investigate further, it flew off. When I looked into the cause of the belt failure, I discovered the pulley on the tensioner was not in plane with the rest of the accessories due to slop/wear at the pivot point. I bought an Advance Auto Parts replacement tensioner in hopes that it would hold up better than the OEM part. It is now on it's last legs, the failure mode is different though, the pulley is still properly aligned but the tensioner spring apparently has relaxed and is not keeping the belt tight enough. I was curious if you or anyone else has had similar experience, and if anyone has determined the best source for a replacement Caravan belt tensioner. That thing is a PIA to change, and since I've got to do it yet again, I want to go back with the best part available. BTW, it's a 3. 3 liter, I think that was the only engine option on the Sports for '98, the 3. 8 looks from external appearance to be just a bored and/or stroked 3. 3 anyway, the belt tensioner looks identical.

There's probably a minivan forum somewhere on the net (a real exciting group I'm sure) that could help me out, but I'll try you guys first. Can any one help me out?

 

[RWetmore]

Thanks for the comebacks.

RedRam - My Sport does have the 3. 8 liter. I have experienced no difficulty at all with the van except tires at 60,000. Just got the 'love bugs' off today - what a PIA!. Where are you in GA and have you 'BOMB'ed? Not being mechanically inclined AT ALL, I need to find a place to do my gauges. I hear good things about Southern Truck Parts in Conley - know anything?

I did price some 3500's, both 01 & 02, but the price difference was not for me - maybe a Rockafeller. I believe I'll be ok - just wait a bit before I do the mods from DTT.

 

[JSchooley]

Just my . 02 Pesos.



I had a similar problem. Sold my truck to a private party and bought a new one. The resale value is very good and if you shop right you can get a pretty good deal on a new one. It makes the conversion a lot less painful.



For your application I would not hesitate to go for the 3500 HO 6sp. You will thank yourself for years to come.



John

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Folks in these groups too often get hungup on what loads their truck will manage to physically move from one point to another - and too often are willing to avoid considering the safety angle - not just THEIR safety, but also the lives and safety of others on the road WITH them!



A truck towing the load specified in the lead post is not only overloaded in terms of weight and suspension, but is ALSO an accident waiting to happen in terms of brakes and other related issues that threaten himself and others on the road! Among practical considerations in trucks used for heavy loads, is the ability to STOP and accurately MANUEVER in sudden, radical situations as they frequently develop on our roads and freeways. Also needing attention is what happens to your "caravan" in the event of a blowout at freeway speeds in heavy traffic - or perhaps while rounding a mounatain curve at speed in heavy traffic with a sheer wall on one side and a steep cliff on the other...



A suggested test for drivers and their loads is to seek out a deserted LARGE parking lot, and set up cones or draw a simple test course in chalk involving fairly tight curves. THEN try manuevering that course at a fair speed, complete with a few panic stops to see how your truck and trailer/camper compromise your ability to evade dangerous situations or stop suddenly in a short distance - it will be a REAL eye-opener, and MAY save your life!



Do yourselves and the rest of us who share the road with you a favor - DON'T "cheap out" on yer choice of tow vehicle, safety equipment or driving habits - it's bad enough if your decision only kills you and yours, but REALLY bad if you take me and MINE with you!



"Good enough", and "close enough" usually ISN'T!