X-fer Case plug stuck

[Jack in Alaska]

I did the fall servicing on my truck today. All went well except that the filler plug on the transfer case would not come loose and the allen wrench "buggered up" the hole in the plug.
Any suggestions on how to get it out, maybe a large "Eazy-out"??

 

[seafish]

I really like KROIL as a pentetrant. If there is any rim of the plug exposed at all, I would first try Kroil then a pair of vise grips. If no rim exposed, I would guess that you are stuck with drilling and then use the correct size ez out in the hole. But first use Kroil!!!

 

[Jack in Alaska]

Thx. for the idea but the plug is flush with the surface of the case. I don't know which gorilla put the plug in last.

 

[MGreer]

Mine did the same thing a few weeks ago but mine was on the drain plug. I tried the kroil also but ended up needing more leverage turning the socket. Once I got the plug out it looked like it was from oxidation on the threads.
I used a socket with the allen head made into it, I dont remember what size it is. Is there enough left to try a bigger size allen wrench whether it be sae or metric?

 

[jhenderson]

Try to jar it loose with a hammer and punch or chisel first. If that doesn't work you may have to drill it out to the edge of the threads and collapse it with a chisel

 

[JR]

Did you already drain the oil? Getting the truck up to temp and then using a can of that computer duster stuff to rapidly cool the plug has worked for me before. If you already drained the oil you could try pounding in the next bigger size allen socket. Try metric and SAE. If you can't make one fit you can doctor it up with a dremel tool to make the next bigger size fit. Last resort would be MILD heat to the case and use something to rapidly cool the plug (computer duster stuff, ice cube). Allen sockets work best for projects like this.

 

[SnoKing]

You might try driving a slightly larger Torx socket into it. You will get the pounding to loosen it and the grip of the points to remove it.

SNOKING

 

[GrantP]

I had the same issue in the past and just drilled through the fill plug and removed it with an EZ out. Since that happened I make a habit of removing the fill plug before the drain plug. It's hard to drive to the store to buy an EZ out without any oil in the xcase.

I would be very reluctant to beat on the case, it's just aluminum. If the head isn't too damaged I'd try driving it long enough to get the case warm and maybe try one of the tricks above to cool the plug. The aluminum case should expand more under heat than the steel plug.

 

[SnoKing]

Could always pump fluid in from the bottom like we do with OB motor lower units. SNOKING

 

[Ozymandias]

Weld a Nut onto the Bolt, turn it out warm.

2 Minute Job to be done, very easy.

 

[Jack in Alaska]

xfer case plug stuck

Thx. Several good ideas to try out. I was just trying to check the fluid level in it.
I did get the drain plug loose and partially removed it to make sure there was red fluid, there was and it looked good. will go to the tool store or pawn shop tomorrow to find a torkz or EZ out the correct size. I like the ice cube idea also.

Does anyone know the dia. and thread size on that plug???

Jack

 

[HerbW]

I would use a manual impact tool with a socket that fits your plug. Oil it first and then hammer hit the tool to turn the plug. The downward pressure holds it in and turns it. It works for me on most stuck stuff like this. Be sure to put Teflon tape or anti seize on the new plug before reinstalling it. Good luck! Herb

 

[Ozymandias]

Definitely do not hammer on the aluminium case of the TC you will just break the thin wall.

 

[seafish]

Definitely do not hammer on the aluminium case of the TC you will just break the thin wall.

Pretty sure that he meant to hammer on the end of the manual impact driver, which is spring loaded and transfers most of the force into rotation.

 

[WCPoe]

Weld a Nut onto the Bolt, turn it out warm.

2 Minute Job to be done, very easy.

I have removed many a frozen bolt or plug using this method. But I have a MIG welder at close hand. Even works on studs that are broken off near flush and they have come out fairly easy. Just position preferably a non-plated nut over the piece to be removed and MIG the center of the nut. The heat and the ability to grasp it are the ticket.

 

[Ozymandias]

Pretty sure that he meant to hammer on the end of the manual impact driver, which is spring loaded and transfers most of the force into rotation.

That's what I say. Those manual Impact Drivers only give around 30% force for turn, the Rest ist just impact to hold the bit into the screws head. A sure way to kill the Case.

 

[Jack in Alaska]

Ozymandius,
Don't worry, I will not use an impact tool on that aluminum case.

 

[deeselfitter]

I mig welded a short length of the right size allen key to the plug and the combination of the heat and a 6 point socket and it came right out. Lots of anti seize going back in when the job was finished. cleaned up and reinforced the welds while it was out and it looks pretty neat. Not a good idea to hammer on either the plug or the case....its pretty fragile.

 

[HerbW]

Pretty sure that he meant to hammer on the end of the manual impact driver, which is spring loaded and transfers most of the force into rotation.

Seafish is right. I put turning pressure on the tool and tap the tool. I'm after turning torque mainly. I've never had this plug stick. I check levels too often and my truck is indoors in my shop.

 

[HerbW]

Pretty sure that he meant to hammer on the end of the manual impact driver, which is spring loaded and transfers most of the force into rotation.

Seafish is right. I put turning pressure on the tool and tap the tool. I'm after turning torque mainly. I've never had this plug stick. I check levels too often and my truck is indoors in my shop.