X-fer Case plug stuck

[CToney]

I've used a heat gun to heat up aluminum to remove steel hardware before. When trying to crack things loose you want to try to act like an impact. Don't do a long slow push. Good luck.

 

[LFalconer]

Another idea

I have removed many a frozen bolt or plug using this method. But I have a MIG welder at close hand. Even works on studs that are broken off near flush and they have come out fairly easy. Just position preferably a non-plated nut over the piece to be removed and MIG the center of the nut. The heat and the ability to grasp it are the ticket.

I have had this happen as well. A larger torx or allen head than can be ground to fit is a start. I have a 1/2 inch drive air ratchet, the combination of the turning and impact did the job for me.... I have a grinder and compressor.

I would not beat on the aluminum case very much, they are rigid and will crack. I did so on an old F150 years ago....

Good Luck

 

[HerbW]

I've used a heat gun to heat up aluminum to remove steel hardware before. When trying to crack things loose you want to try to act like an impact. Don't do a long slow push. Good luck.

I agree with you about working it like an impact wrench. Sometimes tightening will help loosen it for some reason.

 

[Jack in Alaska]

Plug still stuck. I am not in any hurry. The truck is parked for the winter, no trip to Az. for it this year. My co-pilot says 9 RT's to Az. in "that damn noisy truck" is enough. 8400 miles each.
I did buy a new plug at the Mopar shop. The threads on it had some kind of sealant/slickums on it to prevent it sticking again.
Will do the repair in late April on my return to Alaska.
Thx. for all of the suggestions. I am liking the warm the case/cool the plug idea.
Happy New Year

 

[Jack in Alaska]

After many months of delay and wondering if there is any "red stuff" in the xfer case I got it out last week.
I drilled the plug to allow my new $12.95 1/2" easy out get a bite. Then my neighbor tapped on the end of the easyout with a 5 lb hammer while I gorilla'ed on the wrench on the easyout. It took quite a big grunt to break it loose but it came. The threads were absolutely clean so why was it stuck.??? I put in the new one but just a little past snug. No leaks after a 400 mile trip.
Thanks for all of the good suggestions. I essentially did what was suggested.

 

[Mathes308]

This is common with almost all transfer cases. The thread is usually a tapered pipe thread, the threads design is to go in and stay in, once tightened it usually takes more torque to loosen than it did to tighten.

Next time the plugs are out try putting some anti-seize on the threads, it won't hurt anything if a little gets in the transfer case but will keep the threads from seizing together, also don't tighten the plug in really hard, there's no reason they should fall out if snugged well and will make the next removal easier.

 

[BILTIT]

Did you already drain the oil? Getting the truck up to temp and then using a can of that computer duster stuff to rapidly cool the plug has worked for me before. If you already drained the oil you could try pounding in the next bigger size allen socket. Try metric and SAE. If you can't make one fit you can doctor it up with a dremel tool to make the next bigger size fit. Last resort would be MILD heat to the case and use something to rapidly cool the plug (computer duster stuff, ice cube). Allen sockets work best for projects like this.

Just for some info, they actually make a product that would work better than the computer duster cans. We use this stuff at work and all i can say is wow!

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/dusters-cold-sprays/cold-sprays/super-cold-134-403a/

 

[mfurrh55]

Weld a Nut onto the Bolt, turn it out warm.

2 Minute Job to be done, very easy.

Had to resort to this too, came out fine after that, Monte

 

[Motorhead]

Steel plug and Aluminum Case, wet roads maybe, some with salt. Perfect "Storm" for dissimilar metals to react with each other.
Hey Jack, Those AIR SEATS still working out?