2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Y to T steerling linkage conversion question

[Silver Bullet Ram]

my truck is a 01. 5, is all that stuff bolt in or do i have to modify something?



Gary

 

[Jeff H]

Hope some one chimes in on this one. Been wanting to do this to mine.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

You Ain't Kiddin' LOL I remember someone here doing the convert. I do remember y-not talkin about this a while back.



2001 Rig with Technology date 1968 steering geomerty ... From the factory baby! :-laf

 

[ketchumj]

I have been thinking of doing this also - here are some previous threads



My steering sucks



Steering upgrade



The price has gone up since these guys did it, maybe you guys can find a better price.

 

[Cooker]

I thought the newer trucks already have the inverted T steering. I'm pretty sure 1998-1999 did. Did they go back to the Y setup again in later years?



Edit: Answered my own quesiton. I wonder why they switched back?

 

[marksmith]

Everything bolts right up with exception of the rod end that attaches to the pitman arm.



Price has gone up some... but is doable for under 300 bucks. I am ordering my parts next week for putting in next weekend.



Other thing... rather than have to guess what length to set the center link to (knuckle to knuckle) measure the distance as close as possible BEFORE taking the old steering components out. The important one is the center link length. The steering wheel side is adjustable and doesn't change anything except steering wheel orientation.





Good luck fella's

Mark

 

[marksmith]

Side note... if you order your year rod end to attach to the pitman arm, it will thread into the adjusting sleeve just fine.

 

[EBottema]

What year pitman arm do you need to buy for the T style steering? My truck is a 96

 

[marksmith]

You dont need a new pitman arm... just the rod end. You can have the 99 setup (the year the T was used) and use a new rod end for the pitman end of a 96 and it will all bolt right up.



Its cheaper/easier to use the year specific rod end vs. replace the pitman arm.



If you chose to replace the arm, its off a 99.

 

[EBottema]

I just purchased a dropped pitman arm for my 1996 from superlift. 70 bucks, not bad.



so just get a 96 rod end or a 99 rod end?



thanks

erik

 

[Big Mike]

The conversion is entirely bolt in, very easy. just be sure you have the correct rod end for the pitman arm.

 

[CumminsPower98]

I just did mine today. I used all Moog parts from Carquest, which cost me $344. 34. My truck is a '98 but has a '96 front axle due to an accident before I got it. I bought the entire tie rod setup for a '98 truck and it all bolted on perfectly. My truck should have already had this type of steering but the guy I bought it from didn't put the correct year parts back in. From what I have been able to see the '98 and '99 trucks were the only ones with this heavy duty "T" style setup. In the later years they went back to the inverted Y. I think even the 3rd gens I have seen have this stupid design. If anyone can tell me why on earth they ever used this design please let me know. See my mods site for pictures, part numbers and more info on this. http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm

 

[Silver Bullet Ram]

ok now i am all confused, i have a 01, which rod end do i use, a 99 or a 01?



Gary

 

[marksmith]

Use the rod end that the pitman arm attaches to for your year of truck.



If you have a 95, use a rod end for the 95.



If you have an 01, use one for an 01.



The 99 used its own taper on the pitman arm. Its changed three times (I think... 94-98... 98. 5-99... . 00-02) The safe route is using your year rod end. It will thread right in to the drag-link and the other two ends bolt right up without worry.





Clear as mud?



Mark

 

[Jeff H]

So for my 95. Parts I'll need.

1998 Center link ( knuckle to knucle) Plus new tie rod ends.

Its the drag link is where I'm in the mud???

Do I need a drag link off a 1998? Then usa a rod end for a 1995 to attach to the pitman arm and 1998 drag link. Plus a new tie rod end for the drag link to center link.

If I need any more let me know. Or if I'm wrong let me know.

1995 dodge 4x4 ctd.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

CumminsPower98, your web photos are worth a thousand words! I have read of this upgrade but your pictures say it all. I'm adding this to my BOMB list for my '96. While my steering isn't bad my steering linkage is definitely got some slop and doing this upgrade with Moog components will certainly help.



Vaughn

 

[JRagland]

CumminsPower98,



How do you like that track bar you have in your pics? Was that a design that came out before the '03 conversion was available?

Does anyone else have experience with it. Its from DT Pro Fab.

 

[Fishin Guide]

I know this isn't related specifically to the parts you guys are looking at, but I am curious if this helps with death wobble at all.



Any of you guys know if there is a lower occurance of DW in '98, '99 trucks? I just wonder why it was only used for 2 model years? Has anyone that has done the conversion experienced DW?



I agree that I like having the knuckles tied together and steer them both to the same place. Maybe the inverted Y has to do with a built in counter steer based on body/ frame position (body lean) and or road irregularities?



Just curious,





Dave

 

[JSellers]

Has anyone that has done the conversion experienced DW?



Dave

Yes, I just finished this inverted T-type conversion, and experienced DW after only 5 miles from the alignment shop. But, I don't attribute the DW to this conversion. I didn't make this tie rod conversion for a DW problem, I was trying to cure my steering wander. The DW afterward came from a combination of having no steering stabilizer, and having the toe-in set to zero.



My truck never had the DW before, it just happened that I found the "right bump" to set it off, and there was nothing to suppress it, with the stabilizer gone. Having the toe-in set to zero is also a bad thing - with any play in the steering, the wheels will tend to jump back and forth around the steering axis. I think that's a recipe for DW also.



I fitted another steering stabilizer, and set the toe in about 1/16 inch. In case anyone else with this conversion wants a stabilizer (and you have a 2001 truck - or similar OEM stabilizer), you can use a Rancho #RS5405 stabilizer cylinder with a #RS5541 bracket kit. I tried the 5403 cylinder that's listed in Rancho's application guide, but there's not enough room to mount this shock and bracket and still clear the front diff cover. The axle bracket included in the 5541 kit won't fit on the right side of the axle, between the CAD and right u-joint, unless you're willing to cut the OEM stabilizer mount away. And then it might be a close fit for the stabilizer cylinder beneath the track bar. The 5405 cylinder is a bit smaller diameter (that was initially a worry, and it also has a smaller shaft - but Rancho told me that both these shocks have the same control ability), and has an eye with bushing mount that will allow mounting to the axle in the OEM location. You still need the other bracket (from the 5541 kit) for mounting the stud end to the tie rod. You also need to find a 1/2x5/8x1. 5 inch steel sleeve for the cylinder eye bushing (the shock doesn't come with one, and the sleeve from the OEM shock doesn't fit in the Rancho bushing).



It all worked out well for me, and I think the tendency for DW is gone again.

 

[Fishin Guide]

I fitted another steering stabilizer, and set the toe in about 1/16 inch. In case anyone else with this conversion wants a stabilizer (and you have a 2001 truck - or similar OEM stabilizer), you can use a Rancho #RS5405 stabilizer cylinder with a #RS5541 bracket kit. I tried the 5403 cylinder that's listed in Rancho's application guide, but there's not enough room to mount this shock and bracket and still clear the front diff cover. The axle bracket included in the 5541 kit won't fit on the right side of the axle, between the CAD and right u-joint, unless you're willing to cut the OEM stabilizer mount away. And then it might be a close fit for the stabilizer cylinder beneath the track bar. The 5405 cylinder is a bit smaller diameter (that was initially a worry, and it also has a smaller shaft - but Rancho told me that both these shocks have the same control ability), and has an eye with bushing mount that will allow mounting to the axle in the OEM location. You still need the other bracket (from the 5541 kit) for mounting the stud end to the tie rod. You also need to find a 1/2x5/8x1. 5 inch steel sleeve for the cylinder eye bushing (the shock doesn't come with one, and the sleeve from the OEM shock doesn't fit in the Rancho bushing).

Thanks for the reply. This is great info also!!



Dave