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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Y2K Rust Everywhere

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After reading the post about the doors I decided to check the whole truck out. There is a good amount of rust on suspension and axle parts which is to be expected. The rust on the inside of the rear bumper is amazing:eek: . The part that really upset me was the amount of pin-hole sized rust spots on the under side of the bed. I didn't think that galvanized steel with good paint on it should rust. These areas are clean with no damage or anything. I was not expecting to have to replace body parts on a truck I only plan on keeping 10-12 yrs. I know they will not rust through under Chryslers warranty so I guess it's going to be at my expense. :mad: Does anyone else have this problem?
 
Man Im sorry to hear about all the rust. My Y2K is my plow truck,and it has a V box spreader in it as well . I have almost zero rust on it,there is light rust starting o nthe leaf springs,and a few little spots o nthe axles,just surfcae rust. There is no rust at all on any of the doors,or unddercarraige/bed. Absolutely none inside the bumpers either. I do completely rinse my undercarriage at least 10 times in the winter,after every storm,and every chance i get. I like it clean,and leak free underneath.
 
Rust:

Ramafid, I know for a fact that some of those trucks came from Mex. on a boat and got salt water spray on them. Dealer in my aarea has one for sale as a DC buy back. Salesman said that DC would not sell them as new do to this condition The one he has has only 18 mi on it. I was thinking about it until you posted of the rust maybe not such a good deal after all.
 
With my 2000 and I will do the same with my 2002 is once a year you buy a couple of cans of rustoleum and clean up all rust spots. Kept it looking new and only took about 1 hour. I was under my 2002 this week adding the Darin steering stabilizer and noticed a couple of rust spots on the frame of my 2002. I will get them when I do my spring time wax and detail routine. I figure it is just something you have to stay ahead of. I also think where you live will make a big difference.
 
The best way i have found to handle the rust problem if you can put up with a little mess for a couple of days is to use a mixture of 3 parts motor oil and 1 part ATF sprayed inside the doors and fenders and the whole underside of the truck. Just a light coating. Do it in the spring and in the fall and you'l have no rust. I have been doing it for over 20 years and i live where we have over 200 in of snow every year with salt spread on the road almost every day all winter long. Try it it works.
 
2002 with rust

I took delivery of my truck in June of last year and I have rust on the outside of both my front and back bumpers. We had a pretty bad winter this year but I washed the truck at least twice a week. I never went more than two days with the white salt residue on it. I'm very dissapointed with it. I'm going to take it back to the dealer to see what they'll do. I could probably use some mothers polish and clean it but there's no way it should be doing this.



I agree with MCSloan in that an oil bath once a year is a good way to go. I just need to find someone that will do it.
 
Are they still in business?

Back in the '50's & early '60's, when I was a kid in Detroit, Daddy used to have our cars rustproofed @ an outfit called Ziebart. He swore by them. Are they still around? If so, mebbe you Salt Belt guys might want to look into having your trucks done, especially if they're close to new.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. I guess I'm going to try the oil-bath idea. Heck, it can't rust if it's covered with oil. I just can't believe the truck would rust this fast. The next nice weekend you know what I'll be doing. :cool:
 
I've heard used oil in one of those garden sprayers that have the pump up handle work well. This is what I plan to use to rustproof my 4runner beach buggy.
 
Ziebart

I talked to a guy from a Ziebart store in Kansas City. He said for around 500 bucks, he would do a complete undercoating, treat the paint (Won't have to wax), and treat the interior. For about 75 bucks a year, you take it back and they re-treat the exterior and interior.

Have any of you have any information about Ziebart??



Robin
 
Zeibart

My 1991 Dodge was treated by Zeibart by the original owner and he took it back every year for 'booster sprays'. All the receipts were in the glovebox. I don't know anything about their inside treatments but I'll attest to getting the undercoating and having it touched up every year. There was no rust under that truck. Unfortunately, the cab rusted above the windshield pretty bad.



I don't know why but it seems that some of those style Dodges rusted out up there and others didn't. It probably depends on what plant the steel came from I guess. I was in Texas while I still had that truck and decided to look in the local junk yards. I found about a dozen roofs that would fit and every one of them were rusted out. Long story even longer, I had a new top welded on and painted.



When just out of high school, I worked at a detail shop that did interior treatments. My advice is that they are not worth the money. If you look at the chemicals they use, you'll see that they are water soluble. Hard to believe but true.
 
I was just curious as to why none of the ATV/dirt bike guys didn't wade on in here... those that have chain drive that is.



You see, the very best spray-on chain lubes leave a very waxy residue that WILL NOT wash off with rain or even by washing very easily!



Also, Amsoil Heavy-Duty Metal Protector (NOTE: it has to be their HEAVY-DUTY version of their Metal Protector... black can) is the same thing as the previously mentioned chain lubes. Many have used this for corrosion protection. In fact, I used it to protect the center portion of the square box tube of my new steering brace after having it powder coated [the powder coating wasn't able to fully migrate to the center of the tubing]. As I didn't want rust to drain out either side after washing/detailing my Ram, I decided this was the appropriate "fix. "
 
Paint POR 15 over any rust and it is done it takes almost no prep either. Remove lose rust, wire brush. Ready metal primer they sell and rinse. This stuff works! About 45 per qt. There is a website and the sell direct.
 
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