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Whats up with these dealers old truck 981/2 I run 75/140 syn. oil . now the dealer says in 06 it has a new type of rear end and I can only run 75/90 syn. :confused: Also oil level in new MAG HYTEC cover has higher oil level marks than stock by about 1 1/2 ins. if I fill it to mag-hytec recomended levels will I have any trouble such as axel seals leaking.
 
Many of the newer vehicles recommend thin lubricants because they cause less friction under normal light duty conditions... improving fuel economy and lowering emissions. They DO NOT recommend the thin lubricants because it is good for the vehicle!!! They are legally FORCED to recommend the thin lubricants to meet government requirements for fuel economy and emissions!



Do you realize that many race vehicles use thin lubricants? The parts wear out faster, but there is less friction... meaning you win more races. Racers really don't care how fast the parts wear out as long as they win races!



If you tow heavy or live in a hot climate, I would run the traditional heavier weight lubricants for the sake of durability.



Steve Keim
 
I have 10k on 85w140 synthetic with zero issues... and that is overfilling the stock cover the best I can...



Also, I made the change with over 70k on the truck... supposedly, a fellow offroader asked AAM about seals in these "new" axles and was told that by design, they will withstand 250psi of pressure from the outside alone... that sounds like a little much, but if true...



The oil weight will have NOTHING to do with the wheel seals leaking.



steved
 
I think he was more worried about the hiher level of the oil. I haven't noticed any leaks with my rear end.



As for the weight of the oil, it really depends on what you are doing and what you are using. If you are using cheapo Walmart dino lube, then yeah, use that 80W140. If you are going to use a quality synthetic than you will be more than safe with the 75w90. Most uys I run into have no need for the 140 when they see their exle temps with the 75w90. Then add in the extra fuel mileage and it will still reduce wear compared to the cheapo 80w140.



Here is more info if you are interested.



Amsoil SVG 75w90
 
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Diesel Nut said:
I think he was more worried about the hiher level of the oil. I haven't noticed any leaks with my rear end.





You could fill the rear completely full and as long as the vent works correctly and there's room for expansion, it SHOULD NOT LEAK... think of it this way, put the truck in a offcamber situation. The oil runs OUT the axle tube into the hub, filling the hub with oil (the way it should)... the oil level in the hub would be "half full" and it wouldn't be able drain back because of the design (the bottom edge of the spindle is the lowest "drain" point) and well over the depth of the sealing surface...



The whole "overfilling" thing goes out the window... I think it was previously noted that as long as the seals are in good shape, there should be no issues with overfilling any gearbox as long as the vent allows the pressure to escape during heat up...



The only "wrench" in this is that some seals were not compatible with some synthetics, but I think that is a thing of the past... most modern auto manufacturers utilize synthetic oils anyhow...



steved
 
The plug in the center of the identification plate of the Mag Hytec simulates the "stock" level for the gear oil.



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
140 will get hotter than 90. Ford recommends 140 for all their axles, even cars.

It depends on the design (gear pressure angle). Stick to the recommended, so you don't lose your warranty.
 
Differentials of today are subjected to "Severe" duty service and encounter more stress and heat than was seen only a few years ago. Most modern gear oils are faced with the challenge of providing adequite wear protection during severe service operating conditions, while also providing maximum fuel efficiency.



Most of the wear that occurs in differentials take place during the break-in process!



Amnsoil Inc. did a test on 4 seperate vehicles, and demonstrated the importance of changing the "factory fill" gear lube within the first few thousand miles. Oil analysis results revealed most of the wear in vehicle #1 occured over the first 6,869 miles on the vehicle as well as the gear oil with 493 ppm Iron. Vehicle #2 had 16,766 miles on the vehicle as well as the gear oil and 542 ppm Iron with the factory fill oil.



Vehicle #3 had 50,994 miles on the vehicle as well as the gear oil with 608 ppm Iron on the factory fill oil. Vehicle #4 had 146,764 miles on the vehicle, and 18,101 miles on the gear oil and 83 ppm Iron, but was filed with Amsoil "Severe Gear" 75W-90 gear oil.



All of the vehicles gear lube's were still in the Viscosity range for their respective oil grades, and each of the 4 vehicles were factory filled with GM's specified lubes.



The bottom line is this:

Change out the factory fill gear lube within the first 500 to 3,000 miles and install a high quality synthetic gear lube, then change at pre-determined intervals depending on the way you subject your truck too.



For those that use the Amsoil brand gear lube, Amsoil's recommendation on the Severe Gear 75W-90 gear lube is 50,000 miles for "Severe" service applications, and 100,000 miles for "normal" service applications.



wayne

amsoilman
 
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steved said:
You could fill the rear completely full and as long as the vent works correctly and there's room for expansion, it SHOULD NOT LEAK... think of it this way, put the truck in a offcamber situation. The oil runs OUT the axle tube into the hub, filling the hub with oil (the way it should)... the oil level in the hub would be "half full" and it wouldn't be able drain back because of the design (the bottom edge of the spindle is the lowest "drain" point) and well over the depth of the sealing surface...



The whole "overfilling" thing goes out the window... I think it was previously noted that as long as the seals are in good shape, there should be no issues with overfilling any gearbox as long as the vent allows the pressure to escape during heat up...



The only "wrench" in this is that some seals were not compatible with some synthetics, but I think that is a thing of the past... most modern auto manufacturers utilize synthetic oils anyhow...



steved

:-laf ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,You don't think with the gears submersed fully there might be a bit of an issue





Bob
 
Bob4x4 said:
:-laf ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,You don't think with the gears submersed fully there might be a bit of an issue





Bob







Can you explain why it would be an issue???



Gear boxes run with gears completely submerged in a lot of applications.



What is the difference if they run partially submerged or fully submerged????





steved
 
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