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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) zipzim

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Loctite 330 Adhesive

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Hood stack install????

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I have a 97 180H. P. 4x4 2500 which we use to pull a 11000 LB. r. v.

When the ambient temps get above 60 degrees the EGT quickly gets out of control pulling up grades, on long pulls the coolant temp will follow and we can end up in second gear at 30 M. P. H. to keep the egt under 1200 degrees. Will a turbo upgrade cure, improve, or not make a significant difference with this? What is the best turbo? We are planning a trip from Maine to Alaska this summer and hope we can improve this situation.



current upgrades

#5 B. D. camplate

Dynomite Diesel stage 1 injectors

B. D. cool It intercooler new boots and clamps

4 inch turbo back exhaust

ATS 3pc exhaust manifold

ATS commander transmission and 5 star converter

B. D. heavey duty flex plate

Gauges EGT, Boost, transmission Temp
 
When is the last time you removed the radiator and cleaned it? Trying to clean the radiator while installed is an exercise in futility.
 
When is the last time you removed the radiator and cleaned it? Trying to clean the radiator while installed is an exercise in futility.

Hey GAmes, first off I am taking it you are a veteran? If you are thanks for your service!! Second off how do you clean the radiator while it is off? I am in the middle of an engine swap on my 97 and my radiator and overflow bottle look like garbage. The coolant that I took out of there looked like "mud"? Thanks for your help!
 
Thanks

I'll give that a try, not spending a lot sounds good to me!



I was not the one that installed the #5 plate but I remember the tech asking his boss where to position the plate, and he said to slide it all the way forward.

How should the #8 plate be located and is there anything else I need to be aware of?
 
I cleaned the fins when i installed the new B. D. intercooler. Or are you saying the radiator tubes should be rodded out on the inside?
 
All the plates should be installed in the original location to get the advertised results. In your case if you can not see witness marks you will have to start in the middle and experiment
 
If the coolant looked like mud I would take the radiator to a shop and have it professionally cleaned. If the coolant is good, removing the radiator and applying copious amounts of simple green to the exterior and pressure washing (just not too much pressure) should make a world of difference.
 
You have some nice upgrades. I don't think a plate change will help much. All it will do is reduce the fuel. You can do that with your right foot. What gears/tire size do you have? 3. 55 gears + larger tires = high egts. I would check your timing. If that doesn't work, I would move forward (in my opinion) and look into a turbo as you mentioned. Good luck and please keep us posted.
 
You have some nice upgrades. I don't think a plate change will help much. All it will do is reduce the fuel. You can do that with your right foot. What gears/tire size do you have? 3. 55 gears + larger tires = high egts. I would check your timing. If that doesn't work, I would move forward (in my opinion) and look into a turbo as you mentioned. Good luck and please keep us posted.
Plate profiles make a sustantial difference in fueling at a specific rpm=egt control. This is why Mark developed the different profiles for each pump calibration.
Controlling fueling with your right foot will mean slowing down-the correct plate choice will have you enjoying the scenery vs the pyro
 
You have some nice upgrades. I don't think a plate change will help much. All it will do is reduce the fuel. You can do that with your right foot. What gears/tire size do you have? 3. 55 gears + larger tires = high egts. I would check your timing. If that doesn't work, I would move forward (in my opinion) and look into a turbo as you mentioned. Good luck and please keep us posted.

Plate profiles make a sustantial difference in fueling at a specific rpm=egt control. This is why Mark developed the different profiles for each pump calibration.

Controlling fueling with your right foot will mean slowing down-the correct plate choice will have you enjoying the scenery vs the pyro
 
Plate profiles make a sustantial difference in fueling at a specific rpm=egt control. This is why Mark developed the different profiles for each pump calibration.

Controlling fueling with your right foot will mean slowing down-the correct plate choice will have you enjoying the scenery vs the pyro



Maybe I should have elaborated more. JZimba has some nice high end modifications. His trailer, at 11,000 lbs, is not light. If he has to tow in 2nd gear at 30 mph to keep the egts under 1,200 degrees, he will have to do so no matter what the plate. The only difference is that he will be doing it with his foot to the floor. I would rather do a turbo or maybe a gear change and keep the power. That way he can still enjoy the scenery. Just my opinion
 
He does not have enough fuel to need a different turbo. Controlling the rpm/fuel/boostrelationship is important. A bigger turbo will not help
 
He does not have enough fuel to need a different turbo. Controlling the rpm/fuel/boostrelationship is important. A bigger turbo will not help



Are you telling me that a fuel plate is the ONLY way to lower the egts? You have not taken rpm into consideration like quoted above. You have not asked about tire size or gear ratio. We are all trying to help the man, but just telling him to throw in a smaller plate is not giving him all the facts. I would be looking for a solution that allowed me to keep the power and lower egts. I usually agree with your advise, but is sound like you are saying this is an impossible feat. It is not.
 
you dont "need" a new turbo, but it wouldnt hurt either. you have enough airflow upgrades that turning the fuel back some, or smaller tires, higher gears would probable fix the high egt's. If its only used to tow on occasion though the higher gears or smaller tires would make daily driving worse, higher rpm's lower mpg's. depends how much you're willing to spend. 1200+ for a good turbo plus a downpipe. tires 200 each. gears 500 for a set. reducing the fuel some free.
 
My opinion is 11,000 pounds shouldn't be much of a strain. If the radiator is clean, inside and out, and the clutch fan is working, even a pull up Bakers grade in the summer shouldn't overtax the system. Of course the temps aren't real high right now, but I just pulled a 12,000 pound trailer across country and the gauge was doing it's normal back and forth, even when climbing the Rockies.



Besides, making sure the radiator is clean, the fan clutch is critical. The cheap, guaranteed for life, clutches from the auto parts chains are not up to the task. Spend the few extra $$$ for a new OEM clutch. I have also found the plate profile does make a difference. I used to run a #11 and thought it worked well until I had a custom plate from Austin Injection installled. It is almost impossible to exceed 1000* EGT at WOT under a load.
 
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