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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) DRATS - Dead Peddle - 216

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What parts for transmission?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission No instrument Lights in Dash

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SnoKing

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Well last fall in Southern California in the hot weather I had hard starting. Today I had a dead peddle or was I dreaming it. Pulled over, read codes and found a 216. Double Drats!!!!!!



Going to have to fix this before another RV trip.





Snoking
 
Snoking, how many miles on your truck when it failed?





Only 52K on the truck. Trying to decide if I want to make a run at DC with the 5 year engine warranty starts after the 36 month one, as someone else posted. My pump has never been tapped and fuel pressure has always been good.



SNOKING
 
I've got a Blue Chip Special X that's going on mine come Monday. I'll be able to tell ya' after a tank or two. I better get a mileage boost for the money.
 
Only 52K on the truck. Trying to decide if I want to make a run at DC with the 5 year engine warranty starts after the 36 month one, as someone else posted. My pump has never been tapped and fuel pressure has always been good. . .
The wording in your Warranty Information booklet model year 2001 is identical to model year 2000. The strategy to keep DaimlerChrysler honest is pretty well spelled out in my post: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171690

The only downside I see to replacing the pump as I did is that if you lose the fight (always possible) you'll have spent a good deal more than if you replaced it yourself in the first place. I knew I was right and thought the gamble worthwhile.
 
Thomas, I want to win the fight up front before I spend any money. I can not want undo the DTT transmission, Banks Exhaust Brake, and do not want to remove the PDR Turbo, Jammer 1's, Comp in the EZ mode, BHAF, 4" exhaust or move the lift pump back to the engine. We all know that none of these things caused the VP44 to go dead peddle and throw the 216 code! SNOKING
 
OH, BTW I have the original lift pump on the frame rail and it puts out 15 lbs at idle and 10. 5 to 11 at WOT. When it was on the engine it idled at 13. 5 and 6-8 at WOT.



So I do not think fuel pressure had anything to do with this failure.



SNOKING
 
Does a 216 go away by itself after so many starts, or do I disconnect the batteries or does one need a scan tool to reset it? Going to drive it for awhile, but I know it is not going to get better. It's just that we are in the middle of a bathroom remodel right now. Also DW's do not seem to understand these things. SNOKING
 
Well I dropped by the local Dodge dealer today and guess what? They do not know how to read their warranty booket. Neither do the people on the 800 customer support line! I have an electric form filed with customer service to get a written reply.



The print out from the dealer shows the In Service date of June 18th, 2001 and shows the basic warrant expiring on June 18, 2004 and diesel engine expiring on June 18, 2006. That says the warranties run concurrently, when the booket says the Cummins 5/100 engine warranty should have started on June 18, 2004 or at 36,000 miles. In June of 2004 the truck had aprox 26K on it.



I think I am going to return to the dealer and have them document the 216 error code. I am then going to do the pump myself and send the bill to them along with copies of the warranty book pages. Never hurts to try, I am retired and have the time anyway. SNOKING
 
I think the print out showing an expired Cummins Diesel Engine Limited Warranty plus paper showing the error code & odometer reading, along with your Warranty Information booklet and a knowledge of the appropriate federal code would put you in a great position to write a demand letter—after the repair has been made. The less opportunity the dealer has to poke around your truck the better.


I'd probably pay the dealer a diagnostic fee just to get the error code & odometer reading on the dealer's form.
 
I think the print out showing an expired Cummins Diesel Engine Limited Warranty plus paper showing the error code & odometer reading, along with your Warranty Information booklet and a knowledge of the appropriate federal code would put you in a great position to write a demand letter—after the repair has been made. The less opportunity the dealer has to poke around your truck the better.





I'd probably pay the dealer a diagnostic fee just to get the error code & odometer reading on the dealer's form.



Their first cut was that disconnecting the batteries would reset it, which did NOT happen. Per phone call just now they will reset it for $50. 00 and give me a receipt stating what they did. I will follow up on that after this weeks ski trip.



BTW, anyone with a Smarty near me here in La Conner, Wa that would reset it?



SNOKING
 
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Anyone around the La Conner, Wa area with a Smarty that would reset my 216 code, so I can wait for the next one before orderring a new pump? SNOKING
 
Only 52K on the truck. Trying to decide if I want to make a run at DC with the 5 year engine warranty starts after the 36 month one, as someone else posted. My pump has never been tapped and fuel pressure has always been good.



SNOKING



It's all way's a bummer when the injection pump goes bad.

Ask me how I know. :{
 
Guess I was lucky the original VP lasted nearly 190,000. Actually the pump was ok it was the electronic part that went belly up. Replaced it about three weeks ago and was alot easier than I thought.



SNOKING,

Good luck with the warranty issue hope it works out for ya.
 
Well, I had a dead peddle again. So I ordered a pump. And fired another email off to DC.



SNOKING
 
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