towing on a flatbed?

[ANicklas]

Hi guys-

I'm supposed to go pick up a truck for a buddy of mine in about two weeks, and had some questions about towing it (I plan on using a flatbed - the truck itself won't exactly handle I-95 and 500 miles right now).



It's a W250 4x4 standard cab, long box, gasser It's going to be a project truck for him, he got it cheap from a cousin etc... .

It's been pretty difficult trying to find a flatbed out here (eastern NC) - I'm in the military and it's not like anyone has one sitting in the parking lot I could borrow, so I've been trying to find one out in town (literally called 30 places so far). The best I've found is a tandem 18 footer, and I really couldn't understand the guy over the phone, but I think he said it's only 6. 5' between the fenders (which are removable).

Dumb question of the day: will this work? I don't exactly know a whole lot about trailers - could I pop off the fenders and drive on, then replace them?

I've found enough info on securing the truck, it's more a matter of getting it to fit. Also, does anyone know the appx. outside-to-outside wheel measurement? All I can find is the total width of the truck.

If anyone's got some pointers for towing (that I wouldn't have been able to find on google or wherever), they would be greatly appreciated... . for some strange reason, I don't really want to mess this up



TIA

aleksei

 

[Rebel Ram]

1st word of advice. Go overkill on the trailer weight rating. Dont get one just good enough. Make sure its long enough to get good tongue weight vs load. Try to get one as low as possible. All of these things will contribute to a more stable and secure tow. If you get these things out of whack you can get a bad "Whip" going. (BTDT) Very scarry! Good luck.

 

[ANicklas]

I'm a little limited by selection, but I'm trying to find the best I can. I'll just be renting it for a weekend, so it's not something I'll have to live with forever (but after driving convoys across Iraq for seven months, I know how long two days can be... . ).

I am a little concerned about tongue weight though - I don't have WD equipment, and was kind of wondering how to get the weight balance right. I was just planning on positioning the truck to balance it correctly, which brings up the point of having a long enough trailer

 

[cerberusiam]

If it has the stock rims and narrower tires it will fit in 6. 5 feet. If it has after market rims or wider than normal tires it will be a squeeze. The removable fenders will take care of that though. Just make sure the trailer is rated for at last 7000 lbs gross weight.



A standard cab will fit on 16' trailer nicely, the 18 footer will be ok. Load it heavy in front, ie forward, and you will be fine for weight balance. If your pulling with the truck in your sig, no worries.

 

[dpuckett]

I hauled a 165" WB C&C truck from TX to home with a 6'11" x 18ft trailer. Had to tie the ramps onto the back of the flatbed, but the wheelbase fit with room to spare. We were hauling a 8000# truck on a 7000# GVWR trailer with bias tires. Made for an eventful return trip. With ANY CTD Ram, drive the truck as far up as it will go, and tie her down and go. I have had no probelms doing it that way.



DP

 

[ANicklas]

With ANY CTD Ram, drive the truck as far up as it will go, and tie her down and go. I have had no probelms doing it that way. DP

The truck is only gas (318 I think), so that'll shave off a few pounds. I'll be pulling it with my '01 - maybe for once I'll get to use 1st gear?



Cerberusiam, thanks for the info on the tires - I'm pretty sure they're stock, which is turning out to be good; I'm not having too much luck finding any other trailers that even come close. Some U-Haul clown tried telling me that I could fit it on a two-wheel tow dolly, "Just change a few things around in the computer here... . should let you get it. " Uh huh



It might be kicking the hornet's nest, but would you recommend securing the truck by the frame or the axles? I've searched and found about every opinion under the sun... . one more can't hurt.

 

[JFlagg]

I would secure it over the axles if you can. If you attach to the frame it can still bounce when you hit bumps and possibly coming loose. I've heard people argue both ways though. Some say you can bend axle tubes by attaching over them, but if you go all the way to the outside (near the wheels) you should be fine.

 

[cerberusiam]

The truck is only gas (318 I think), so that'll shave off a few pounds. I'll be pulling it with my '01 - maybe for once I'll get to use 1st gear?



Cerberusiam, thanks for the info on the tires - I'm pretty sure they're stock, which is turning out to be good; I'm not having too much luck finding any other trailers that even come close. Some U-Haul clown tried telling me that I could fit it on a two-wheel tow dolly, "Just change a few things around in the computer here... . should let you get it. " Uh huh



It might be kicking the hornet's nest, but would you recommend securing the truck by the frame or the axles? I've searched and found about every opinion under the sun... . one more can't hurt.

Yeah, you can get them on a dolly and it works. Just an accident waiting to happen most of the time though. I cannot count the number of times I have seen wrecks and slide offs due to a truck on a dolly. Just plain dangerous.



Securing by the axles is the preferred way. That way the suspension does not come into play on the tightness of the chains, only the tires and they don't rebound much. Anybody that has done much towing vehicles knows not to anchor on the frame.

 

[WaltHess]

I have towed quite a few cars and trucks back from DRMO auctions and the axles are the place to secure it unless the trailer has the tire tie downs. They are strap/nets made to go over the tires and ratchet to the bed rings. Then there are some cars that you just can't get onto the axles, so you have to get where ever you can. The truck won't be a problem. Be careful going around the axles to not crush the brake lines. A couple wraps of old carpet around the axle helps, or loop around the leaf springs where they attach to the axle. I have used 5k-10K cap. ratcheting straps and chains with binders. Check local highway patrol regs. as some states require chains. Which ever method you use I recommend that you tie it down from side to side not just front and back. This will keep the truck centered on the trailer better. I have seen vehicles move sideways quite a bit over a long trip.



The trailer needs sufficent tongue weight to keep it from whipping back and forth-less of a problem with dual axle trailers. I usually run the vehicle up till I see the bed of the tow vehicle start to move down. If the trailer is tail heavy the tongue lifts up some and the trailer starts to steer on its own whipping back and forth. If the trailer is too nose heavy it tends to hammer the tow vehicle up and down. The hitch will have a rating for max tongue weight. Short of using a scale, if you and your buddy can't pick the hitch up off the ball you will be good.



Just don't do what I saw a couple of women headed back to Utah do. They passed me on I-15 as I was headed home doing a good 70+mph towing a car on a trailer. The trailer was tilted down at the rear due to the hitch being too high. What caught my eye was the lack of tie downs. I guess they figured the parking brake and the cinder block behind the rear wheel was good enough.

 

[Niki]

Just don't do what I saw a couple of women headed back to Utah do. They passed me on I-15 as I was headed home doing a good 70+mph towing a car on a trailer. The trailer was tilted down at the rear due to the hitch being too high. What caught my eye was the lack of tie downs. I guess they figured the parking brake and the cinder block behind the rear wheel was good enough.

You've got to be kidding me, thats insane!

 

[Moab4x4]

I towed my 93 parts truck home on a flatbed from Seattle with a buddy and his bone stock 01 CTD 6 speed. The parts truck was complete, except that the spring perch had been sheared off in the accident that bent the frame. We reattached the axle/spring assy back to the truck with 2" ratchet straps, a comealong and chains. It sounds hokey, but it was really secure. My friend who helped me runs a wrecker service and his experience there helped quite a bit. We attached the axles and frame to the flatbed and cinched both. The rear axle was the main point of security, but strapping the frame does reduce body roll a tad. In our case we had to because of the damage.



Anyway, We towed the next 20 hours or so straight through and that truck handled like a dream. It was easy to forget that the 01 CTD had a CTD on a flatbed behind it. It was the best towing vehicle I have ever driven. As mentioned before, pull your truck up as far as you can and that should be about right. Just don't forget you are towing and drive too fast.

Have a safe trip

Ken

 

[ANicklas]

Thanks for the answers everyone - I was going to ask, but Moab4x4 already answered my question about using both the frame and axles - I'll secure the truck by the axles, but throw a couple of straps on the frame to cinch down the suspension and reduce roll.