Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

[ABrenneman]

I installed this Frantz on my 03 Dodge before I left home this past Sunday. I intentionally did not change the oil prior to the installation. I wanted to see if the Frantz would clean it up. The oil had just over 10k on it. I am towing my 94 Dodge Diesel behind me, and i'm heading to Seattle from Pennsylvania. I drove nearly 700 miles each day, changing the filter each morning before I would take off, while the wife was repacking the trucks, from the motel room.

I am now in Couer d' Alene, Idaho, and found the frantz cleaned the oil to the point I can see thru it, and read the markings on the dipstick, where before it was black and thick, and not transparent. Every time I changed the filter, 4 times at this point, the canister came off leaving the toilet paper roll on the base, and dripped some oil. This happened every time. Also, everytime, the cardboard core was stuck fast to the base post, where I had to peel it off. I am using Scot 1000 with 1 1/2'' core, unwrapping about 1/2 inch off the roll. It is no doubt in my mind, there is no oil going down between the core and the shaft, or it wouldn't stick like it does. On the other hand, changing the element this way is really messy, and all those wraps you take off, are all needed.

Tonight when I changed it, I went with my other deal. The straight piece of tailpipe, with 3 O rings. Now my core is 1 and 5/8'' inside diameter. I will report back how this works out. I know changing it every morning is a bit excessive, but I wanted to prove it to myself that this will clean up very dirty black oil, in which it did.

Tomorrow I will be in Seattle for another toilet paper change. I will have over 15,000 miles on this oil by then. One thing I will say, you can take some of this oil and rub it into your hands, and it disappears. The color has never come back to the honey color, as I didn't think it would, but now you can see thru it.

 

[Cal Brewin]

Every time I changed the filter, 4 times at this point, the canister came off leaving the toilet paper roll on the base, and dripped some oil. This happened every time. Also, everytime, the cardboard core was stuck fast to the base post, where I had to peel it off. I am using Scot 1000 with 1 1/2'' core, unwrapping about 1/2 inch off the roll. It is no doubt in my mind, there is no oil going down between the core and the shaft, or it wouldn't stick like it does.

Although I have never had my core stick to the center tube(I believe my scott 1000 is closer to 1 5/8"), I have never had the roll stay on the base. Is your Frantz missing the retainer ring? The large ring that helps hold the TP roll in the canister?



Tom.

 

[amsoilman]

I installed this Frantz on my 03 Dodge before I left home this past Sunday. I intentionally did not change the oil prior to the installation. I wanted to see if the Frantz would clean it up. The oil had just over 10k on it. I am towing my 94 Dodge Diesel behind me, and i'm heading to Seattle from Pennsylvania. I drove nearly 700 miles each day, changing the filter each morning before I would take off, while the wife was repacking the trucks, from the motel room.



I am now in Couer d' Alene, Idaho, and found the frantz cleaned the oil to the point I can see thru it, and read the markings on the dipstick, where before it was black and thick, and not transparent. Every time I changed the filter, 4 times at this point, the canister came off leaving the toilet paper roll on the base, and dripped some oil. This happened every time. Also, everytime, the cardboard core was stuck fast to the base post, where I had to peel it off. I am using Scot 1000 with 1 1/2'' core, unwrapping about 1/2 inch off the roll. It is no doubt in my mind, there is no oil going down between the core and the shaft, or it wouldn't stick like it does. On the other hand, changing the element this way is really messy, and all those wraps you take off, are all needed.



Tonight when I changed it, I went with my other deal. The straight piece of tailpipe, with 3 O rings. Now my core is 1 and 5/8'' inside diameter. I will report back how this works out. I know changing it every morning is a bit excessive, but I wanted to prove it to myself that this will clean up very dirty black oil, in which it did.



Tomorrow I will be in Seattle for another toilet paper change. I will have over 15,000 miles on this oil by then. One thing I will say, you can take some of this oil and rub it into your hands, and it disappears. The color has never come back to the honey color, as I didn't think it would, but now you can see thru it.

And how much oil have you added in the 4 times of changing the elements?

 

[SteveAnsley]

12v folks - oil return ???

12 valver's - how has everyone been returning the oil from the Frantz?



Oil cap? Tap the tube below the cap?

Any one have pics to post?

 

[walexa07]

Oil cap... ... ... I believe if you will look back through all the posts someone had photos of this oil return. I believe I ordered my frantz with the correct fitting. This requires a little modification to the oil cap.



Waylan

 

[CumminsPower98]

See the top of this for pictures and info on my Amsoil bypass install showing where I returned the oil. There are many ways but I chose this in case I wanted to monitor the flow.

 

[amsoilman]

See the top of this for pictures and info on my Amsoil bypass install showing where I returned the oil. There are many ways but I chose this in case I wanted to monitor the flow.

Great Info! Thanks for shareing!



Wayne

 

[DMather]

When you order a Franz specify that you are installing on a dodge ram xx00 and want to return oil through the filler cap. They will substitute the oil pan punch for the swivel fittings needed to make the connection.



Also specify TDR... . there is a discount already offered to us!



Mine should be here today... going in over the weekend.

 

[steved]

As one of the only people on this board running a Gulf Coast Filter, I'll post up my findings... this will be my only post on the subject.



I recently installed a USED Gulf Coast Filter (Model 0-1) on my truck... changed oil to Rotella 15w40 CJ-4 at the same time. I have since logged about 600 miles and any of you that own a later (2004. 5+) 3rd gen will know that the oil is black in under 50 miles. My oil looks like I just poured it into the engine... it is almost completely clear (short the coloration of the Rotella) on the dipstick... this is running their filters, which are nothing more than a pre-mounted roll of paper towels in a cheesecloth wrapping.



I did add a restriction to the bypass to slow the flow down... I made a fitting that was 0. 052" and placed it upstream of the 5/64" GCF restriction (please note, these are for a lot bigger application than mine). This has me below a 0. 5 quart/minute cold idle...



Other than the upfront cost and mounting limitations due to their weight and size, this seems to be a "higher mileage" version of the Frantz that have done so well. The unit weighs almost 30#s and is 16" long and about 6" in diameter.



The element change interval is 10k... I may follow GCF's lead and just change the element and main filter since that changes over 50% of the "normal" oil capacity of the CTD... I will use UOAs to determine if this is an acceptable approach. I also intend to use store-bought paper towels once these six GCF elements are gone... I only bought them to compare to locally available stuff.



I finally got a bypass that does what I thought it should do... I am very pleased at this point. I will only add that if the FS2500 uses a similar media, I can see where they claim "honey colored oil".



And as a side note, GCF customer service is second to none... I will definately buy one of these new for my next truck.



steved

 

[lschleif]

A couple of questions which almost surface during the extended life of this very informative thread (THANKS GARY!): Apparently, back in June 1994 Cummins had an Application Engine Bulletin (AEB42. 09) that talked about a restriction no greater than 2mm and a check valve with a 30 psi crack pressure on the supply line. I have never seen the bulletin but I assume the check valve is to cut down wear on engine start up (where cummins says most wear occurs). Is anyone running the check valve with the 30 psi crack pressure? If so, where did you get it? Is it needed with the 1/16 orifice? Let me know your thoughts on start up oil pressure and bypass filters.

Thanks,

Larry

 

[ABrenneman]

I guess overkill on filtration is not a bad thing. On my big rig, 3406 CAT, I am running on the passenger side of the frame rail, a model 0-1 GCF, with 3 inline Frantz filters, and on the drivers side frame rail, I have a model 0-2 GCF mounted. My oil capacity is now increased from 11 to 15 gallons. With big truck labor rates now exceeding $100 per hour, changing filter media is quite cheap. Personally, I can't believe how clean my oil stays. With over 600+ HP, the oil got pretty black very quick after a fresh oil change. At this point, I have just over 70,000 miles on my last oil change, and it still has a very clean honey color to it. I am still running the Frantz on my 03 and 94, and my VW. It might sound crazy but I am shooting for 200,000 mi on my CAT without an oil change, while changing the TP and paper towel media every 20,000.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

A couple of questions which almost surface during the extended life of this very informative thread (THANKS GARY!): Apparently, back in June 1994 Cummins had an Application Engine Bulletin (AEB42. 09) that talked about a restriction no greater than 2mm and a check valve with a 30 psi crack pressure on the supply line. I have never seen the bulletin but I assume the check valve is to cut down wear on engine start up (where Cummings says most wear occurs). Is anyone running the check valve with the 30 psi crack pressure? If so, where did you get it? Is it needed with the 1/16 orifice? Let me know your thoughts on start up oil pressure and bypass filters.

Thanks,

Larry

I've personally never seen, or heard of such a valve - and the oil pump in the Cummins seems to provide far more oil volume than the engine uses. Oil diversion thru the Frantz when properly restricted, is quite low compared to total pump output, and at least in my case, causes no visible pressure degradation, either hot or cold. That was also true of every other engine I have used the Frantz on - mostly GM smallblock V8's - and all those I had installed mechanical oil pressure gauges with better accuracy than the OEM ones that come with our trucks.



ABrenneman - way to go!



Always interested in hearing success stories of an unusual nature - I wonder how many miles you will get from the engine before overhaul? Hope we get more info from you down the road - literally! :-laf

 

[ABrenneman]

I guess I should have mentioned, I installed the 2 GCF @ 510,000 miles, I had the 3 inline Frantz's on since 485,000. I now have 580,000 on the CAT and doesn't use any oil between filter changes. I do heavy haul, and my gross weight is always between 80 and 96,000 lbs, so i'm putting these filters and shell rotella 15-40 to the test.

It cost me $3. 00 to do the 0-2 GCF, $1. 50 to do the GCF 0-1, and $. 50 per roll to do the 3 Frantz's. In other words, I can change my whole rig cheaper than the price of 1 spin on filter, no matter who makes it. Now thats economical!! At filter change time, I am adding a total of 4 gallons of fresh new oil to make up for what I lost @ filter changing time. Wal-Mart's price is $8. 88 per gallon + my $6. 00 for all my filter media. To get an oil change done @ any truckstop these days range from $225 to $250. 00..... back then I was changing every 12,000 miles. If one does the math, you can see i'm saving a ton of money over time, plus time not being down every 12k waiting in line @ the truckstop trying to get service. Not mentioning the fact, my last oil change the grease monkey stripped the threads in my pan, 6 hours later and $300, which they paid, I was off and running again.

I like the fact that when i'm out o the road and its time to change filters, i'm not looking for a specific auto parts store and hope they carry what I need. A grocery store is on almost every corner, generally in a mall parking lot where I can get in and out of. I know it sounds like adding 4 gallons of fresh oil seems alot, but remember I hold 15 total gallons. The 4 gallons is enough to give the additive package up to snuff.

 

[Lorenz]

Why didn't this post appear on the thread. I got a notification that there was an update to the thread? See below.







***********************************************************

Dear Lorenz,



Scardog has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter - in the Products/Accessories - Engine and Transmission forum of TDR Roundtable.



This thread is located at: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-toilet-paper-bypass-oil-filter-new-post.html



Here is the message that has just been posted:

***************

After reading the entire thread I decided to get a bypass filter, I went with the Frantz unit for the low cost filter elements (Stott 1000). I have been using Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5W-40 change every 7,500miles.



Here is the Before results from Blackstone.

Particle count

ISO Code (2) = 17/14

>= 2 Micron 2222

>= 5 Micron 823

>= 10 Micron 227

>= 15 Micron 88

>= 25 Micron 21

>= 50 Micron 2

>= 100 Micron 0



I instaled the bypass unit about 3500 miles into the 7500 OUI Changed the element 2 time adding 1qt make-up oil each for a total of 2qt.



Here is the after results

Particle count

ISO Code (2) = 17/14

>= 2 Micron 303

>= 5 Micron 112

>= 10 Micron 31

>= 15 Micron 12

>= 25 Micron 2

>= 50 Micron 0

>= 100 Micron 0



I am pleased with the results. Wear metals are down and the Partical count is a lot better. I did not dump the oil this time, I will go another 7,500 and test again.



I am trying to attach the actual report, hope this works.

**





There may also be other replies, but you will not receive any more notifications until you visit the forum again.



All the best,

TDR Roundtable

***************************************************************

 

[Grieke]

I finally got around to installing my brandnew Frantz bypass filter in my '04 Dodge Cummins. The hardest part was to desingn a bracket that satisfied my requirements. Well I did it, and changed the oil at the same time (Amsoil 15-40). After about 2000 miles I attempted the first filter change.

To my surprise the cannister came off leaving the tp roll on the base. Mind you that this roll and retainer ring was factory installed. After removing the roll and retainer ring from the base, I reinserted the roll into the cannister to check the fit. The roll was very loose, and after soaking in oil, heavy enough to stay in place regardless of the retainer ring. I was surprised to find no groove for the ring. In short most of the passing oil did not go through the filter element but rather bypassed it.

I cleaned up the mess and reassembled the Frantz w/o the TP. Now I am trying to decide what to do next. Any ideas?? Gary??

I really want for this to work. I purchased two new sets for my two trucks.

Thanks for reading my post.

Gerhard.

 

[amsoilman]

Why didn't this post appear on the thread. I got a notification that there was an update to the thread? See below.







***********************************************************

Dear Lorenz,



Scardog has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter - in the Products/Accessories - Engine and Transmission forum of TDR Roundtable.



This thread is located at: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-toilet-paper-bypass-oil-filter-new-post.html



Here is the message that has just been posted:

***************

After reading the entire thread I decided to get a bypass filter, I went with the Frantz unit for the low cost filter elements (Stott 1000). I have been using Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5W-40 change every 7,500miles.



Here is the Before results from Blackstone.

Particle count

ISO Code (2) = 17/14

>= 2 Micron 2222

>= 5 Micron 823

>= 10 Micron 227

>= 15 Micron 88

>= 25 Micron 21

>= 50 Micron 2

>= 100 Micron 0



I instaled the bypass unit about 3500 miles into the 7500 OUI Changed the element 2 time adding 1qt make-up oil each for a total of 2qt.



Here is the after results

Particle count

ISO Code (2) = 17/14

>= 2 Micron 303

>= 5 Micron 112

>= 10 Micron 31

>= 15 Micron 12

>= 25 Micron 2

>= 50 Micron 0

>= 100 Micron 0



I am pleased with the results. Wear metals are down and the Partical count is a lot better. I did not dump the oil this time, I will go another 7,500 and test again.



I am trying to attach the actual report, hope this works.

**





There may also be other replies, but you will not receive any more notifications until you visit the forum again.



All the best,

TDR Roundtable

***************************************************************

I'd like to see your "Spectrochemical Analysis".



Wayne

 

[Froadin]

I got the Amsoil swivel part for tapping into my oil cap for the return.
That part works good and makes it easy.
But a short time after installing it it would seep oil around the part that actually swiveled. It has done this the last few, uhm, 40k miles or so.
Nothing TOO bad, until lately it has started to seep a lot more oil then I am comfortable with.

Does everyone else's leak like this? If so, what is a better option?

If not, I guess I need a different one.

 

[Flinty]

I finally got around to installing my brandnew Frantz bypass filter in my '04 Dodge Cummins. The hardest part was to desingn a bracket that satisfied my requirements. Well I did it, and changed the oil at the same time (Amsoil 15-40). After about 2000 miles I attempted the first filter change.

To my surprise the cannister came off leaving the tp roll on the base. Mind you that this roll and retainer ring was factory installed. After removing the roll and retainer ring from the base, I reinserted the roll into the cannister to check the fit. The roll was very loose, and after soaking in oil, heavy enough to stay in place regardless of the retainer ring. I was surprised to find no groove for the ring. In short most of the passing oil did not go through the filter element but rather bypassed it.

I cleaned up the mess and reassembled the Frantz w/o the TP. Now I am trying to decide what to do next. Any ideas?? Gary??

I really want for this to work. I purchased two new sets for my two trucks.

Thanks for reading my post.

Gerhard.

I had the same problem with mine. What I did was add on to the existing roll, just carefully roll off of one roll on to the other, if it's too tight a fit take some off. I never installed a loose fitting filter on mine, when I observed that it didn't fit tightly I put more on to the new roll immediately. Upon my next filter change no channeling was noticed and the filter came out in one piece. It was obviously working as my oil stayed clean.



As for the retainer ring mine doesn't have a groove either, just a press fit. Sometimes the bond around the shaft is just too tight to allow it to slip off.



Other folks here use different brands of filter media that come with more beef on them, allowing you to unroll to the exact fit. Maybe they will chime in with the necessary info. I like the stuff from frantz or my local outhouse company, they are extremely dense, almost like a paper brick. Hope this helps.



Jon

 

[Cal Brewin]

I finally got around to installing my brandnew Frantz bypass filter in my '04 Dodge Cummins. The hardest part was to desingn a bracket that satisfied my requirements. Well I did it, and changed the oil at the same time (Amsoil 15-40). After about 2000 miles I attempted the first filter change.

To my surprise the cannister came off leaving the tp roll on the base. Mind you that this roll and retainer ring was factory installed. After removing the roll and retainer ring from the base, I reinserted the roll into the cannister to check the fit. The roll was very loose, and after soaking in oil, heavy enough to stay in place regardless of the retainer ring. I was surprised to find no groove for the ring. In short most of the passing oil did not go through the filter element but rather bypassed it.

I cleaned up the mess and reassembled the Frantz w/o the TP. Now I am trying to decide what to do next. Any ideas?? Gary??

I really want for this to work. I purchased two new sets for my two trucks.

Thanks for reading my post.

Gerhard.

I never had the chance to use the TP that came with my Frantz. It was "new old stock" and I did not know how old the TP was (brittle?) But many people use the Scott 1000 single ply rolls, so do I. I unwrap exactly 47 turns of TP and a snug fit it is. I get that roll in there just enough so the retainer ring holds on to the canister, set it on the filter base, and a couple good whacks, and you are ready to reinstall the clamp. I run dual Frantz filters, have for around 25,000 miles now. A couple of messes, but I learned a trick to help with that, as soon as the seal is broken when changing the filter(rocking the canister slightly) lift the can quickly and turn the bottom up, and the oil stays in the can. Lift it slowly, and the extra oil left in the can will begin flowing out... Yuck. I have never had a roll stay on the base, yet the used filter element will pull out easily after removing the retainer ring. Give it a go, I had a great particle count on a UOA running these filters, no regrets at all.

 

[PRout]

My experiences have been similar as Cal's. .

If I use the Scotts 1000 ill take wraps off and use those for clean-up. Have never counted how many, but will try the 47 as Cal mentioned to see how that compares to how tight Ive been doing mine. I just know that I try to get the rolls packed very tightly inside the canister as have had the best luck that way. Have done a few too tight to where it deforms the cardboard center tube and then have removed and used a new roll to keep it in good form. Wow, they can be tough to get back out when dry and over tight!

If using Frantz supplied paper, ill usually buy a case of them and use 1 roll as an "adder" for the others as they are a little too loose and can channel or slip off during removal. That has also given good results.

Bottom line for me has been pack em as tight as you can while not deforming the center tube. Then I get them in far enough to add the retainer ring, then use a coffee can around the edges against the retainer ring to sort of "snug" them down inside the canister, but you kind of have to get a feel for how far down you want to snug them. . That way when you insert it onto the base unit, just give it a whack to seat it down and install the securing clamp.

Thats just how Ive been doing it for a long time and as long as they are packed in tight they work well and always come apart correctly when changing them. Just make sure you have the unit level when pulling the canister off during removal and you should not have a mess to clean. Also, I change them while the motor is cold (usually) and has given the oil a chance to drain down out of the unit a bit. But mine returns "downward" to the side of the oil pan, not up to the filler cap.

I like Gary's idea of using some blue shop towels for a tightening effect. . Trying to visualize the best way to do that and think Ive got an idea, but sounds interesting. .

Added: Just noticed today Im at 5k miles on the new oil (the new type delo) with a new setup where I went back to using a single unit (from using 2 in series before) and added some o-rings on the center tube to try to minimize center tube leakage. Went the full 5k on a single roll of paper so will take a sample, change the roll and post the results when available. Tnx