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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Help! Truck Shut Off & Won't Start

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axle Nut Socket Help

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Losing fuel prime

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I left the house friday, and made it 1. 5 miles away from home and my truck just shut off as if I turned the key. It now just spins over. There is diesel in the fuel filter cannister, and my FASS is pumping away. I checked codes and have none. I replaced the injector pump about a year (20-30,000 miles) ago. Removed Bullydog and no changes. Any suggestions? On a side note, I went to the Dodge place to buy a new one this weekend, and all they had were 6. 7's and none with leather. I'll keep driving this one with 298,000 miles on it.



2001 QC, SB, 4x4, Auto, Westach Guages, FASS, Bullydog Torque Dog, BHAF
 
Air in the fuel lines somehow? If there are no codes I would tend to believe that sensors/computer problems weren't the first thing to come to mind. Air in the fuel might not throw a code, yet would cause problems. Caused mine to not start at all the third week I had it. Turned out to be a faulty o-ring on the fuel filter cap.
 
In the PDC under the hood there is a 50 amp fuse, I think it is called the ignition fuse. My truck died like that one time, and that was blown. Don't know why it blew or what caused it but it killed the truck. For that matter check all the fuses.
 
In the PDC under the hood there is a 50 amp fuse, I think it is called the ignition fuse. My truck died like that one time, and that was blown. Don't know why it blew or what caused it but it killed the truck. For that matter check all the fuses.



Also check Fuse #9 in Fuse box in side cab. :)
 
I had my VP44 go out the same way. I had stopped at a rest stop and was starting down the onramp to get back on the freeway when it was like I turn the key off, nothing. It did set a code that would come up in the ODO, something about speed sensor bad. Had to have a DRBII hooked up to read the code that said "internal electrical failure" in the VP44.



Kevin
 
There is a quick test to be sure the VP-44 is bad. Involves removing the connector and grounding one wire and putting 12 volts on the other wire. I would do this before shelling out the big bucks for a new IP.

testing the VP44 - TDR Roundtable

Here is a snippit from that thread:
<table id="post661778" class="tborder" align="center" border="0" cellpadding="7" cellspacing="1" width="100%"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td class="alt2" style="border-right: 1px solid rgb(207, 207, 207);" width="160"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td align="left">Agades<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <script type="text/javascript"> vbmenu_register("postmenu_661778", true); </script>
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Offline </td> </tr> </tbody> <tbody id="collapseobj_postbit_legacy_userinfo10" style=""><tr><td class="alt2"> Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: middle of Minnesota
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Old Reader's Rigs Gallery

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here we go guys
boy did I do a dummy

last night I used a test light as my hot wire
used the right pins and everything (#6 as neg and #7 as pos)
but
the test light will not transmit electricity and if it did it would blow the little fillament right out of the light

DUH!!!

this morning I got ahold of a cummins tester at my dealer (who didnt even know they had it till I explained it)

the pump worked fine so then I tried the shadetree method with just two wires (not a test light) and worked fine

the tach doesnt bounce around and idle is rock steady

hooked up the connector and Im back to normal again

(normal to my truck is a bouncing tach, crappy idle, and a stumble at 59 mph)

Im going to try a new APPS unless someone has any bright ideas

at least I should be able to rule out the pump now#ad


Thank you very much for the help Rob
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