Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Installing ARP head studs

[JDKammin]

I am getting ready to order a set of head studs for my 12 valve and hear of people installing them one at a time. While it would be nice to clean out each hole with a bottoming tap, I am unaware of a bottoming tap that could be used with the head on. Any tips on installing the studs with the head on? Thanks.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I put studs in my '96 and did it without a bottoming tap, but I wish I would have used one. Several of the studs didn't screw down into their holes as deeply as I would've liked.

 

[JGK]

When I put studs in mine, I did them one at a time in standard head torque sequence and torqued them to 122 ft-lbs.



Since I didn't have a bottoming tap I did what someone else suggested. I took the first stock bolt removed of each size and ground a groove down the side with a 3 inch cut-off wheel on a die grinder. Then, after a bolt of that size was removed I shot a quick blast of brake cleaner down the hole (put a rag over the hole or you could end up with a face full!), then screwed the grooved bolt down to knock junk loose, removed the bolt, then used a curved copper tube on an air gun from my compressor to blow out the hole (again, put a rag over it!). I did this 2 times in each hole, then dipped the end of the stud in oil and screwed it in the head - just until it stops. Don't tighten it. Then put the nut on with the moly lube and torque it to spec.



This took an afternoon, so plan accordingly.



-Jay

 

[RHestand]

When I put studs in mine, I did them one at a time in standard head torque sequence and torqued them to 122 ft-lbs.



Since I didn't have a bottoming tap I did what someone else suggested. I took the first stock bolt removed of each size and ground a groove down the side with a 3 inch cut-off wheel on a die grinder. Then, after a bolt of that size was removed I shot a quick blast of brake cleaner down the hole (put a rag over the hole or you could end up with a face full!), then screwed the grooved bolt down to knock junk loose, removed the bolt, then used a curved copper tube on an air gun from my compressor to blow out the hole (again, put a rag over it!). I did this 2 times in each hole, then dipped the end of the stud in oil and screwed it in the head - just until it stops. Don't tighten it. Then put the nut on with the moly lube and torque it to spec.



This took an afternoon, so plan accordingly.



-Jay

Great idea on the clean-out bolts.

 

[JDKammin]

I forgot about that method. I had to rebuild an 855 Cummins in our farm tractor a few years ago and did not like the way a couple of the head bolts were threading in. After an exhausting search and not coming up with the correct tap, I found an extra head bolt and used the die grinder like you suggested. That took out the carbon that was in the threads of the block and made a difference when threading in the head bolts. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Woodenhead]

I did mine with the head off so tapping wasn't an issue. If reaching the bottom of the hole with a tap is the issue than try to find a tap with a long shank. I've bought them for other applications from McMaster Carr and Grainger. I didn't use a bottoming tap, just an intermediate and had no issues with thread depth.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

When I put studs in mine, I did them one at a time in standard head torque sequence and torqued them to 122 ft-lbs.



Since I didn't have a bottoming tap I did what someone else suggested. I took the first stock bolt removed of each size and ground a groove down the side with a 3 inch cut-off wheel on a die grinder. Then, after a bolt of that size was removed I shot a quick blast of brake cleaner down the hole (put a rag over the hole or you could end up with a face full!), then screwed the grooved bolt down to knock junk loose, removed the bolt, then used a curved copper tube on an air gun from my compressor to blow out the hole (again, put a rag over it!). I did this 2 times in each hole, then dipped the end of the stud in oil and screwed it in the head - just until it stops. Don't tighten it. Then put the nut on with the moly lube and torque it to spec.



This took an afternoon, so plan accordingly.



-Jay

Jay, using this method were you able to seat your studs all the way down (was the amount of thread left above the cap consistent from stud to stud)?



I used a head bolt but ground one side down since I didn't have a cutoff tool, but I don't think it helped much. Part of my problem was the amount of rust & crud built up in the holes after 387,000 miles.

 

[Woodenhead]

Here's a couple that are 6" long.



MSC Item Detail



MSC Item Detail



I'd have to run out and measure an old head bolt to see if it'd be long enough but it would work for some. These are gun taps so they're meant to push the chip forward as it cuts (through hole). Keep looking through these pages and you'll likely find a 6" bottoming tap. I couldn't find anything at McMaster.



MSC Google Search Results



I cleaned my holes with several cans of NON FLAMMABLE brake cleaner and the straw on the can. Shoved the straw to the bottom and blasted away while the shop vac (an old shop vac. ) sucked away everything that was flushed out of the hole. Then shoved a long tube on the blow gun down the hole to blow it out and dry it. This makes an insane amount of fumes so excellent ventilation is a must. If you do this with flammable cleaner you'll blow yourself and your garage into the next county. It didn't seam to hurt my shopvac, but it might melt the plastic parts on yours.



Mike

 

[Woodenhead]

I am getting ready to order a set of head studs for my 12 valve and hear of people installing them one at a time. While it would be nice to clean out each hole with a bottoming tap, I am unaware of a bottoming tap that could be used with the head on. Any tips on installing the studs with the head on? Thanks.

Are you planning to machine the rocker pedestals?

 

[JDKammin]

Thanks for reminding me about that. I have a few machine shops around that can do that for me.

 

[JGK]

Jay, using this method were you able to seat your studs all the way down (was the amount of thread left above the cap consistent from stud to stud)?...

Vaughn,



Apparenlty, yes. I still had to grind away one web in the top of each valve cover to clear the stud and nut for the one through the rocker towers. But the thead left showing was pretty consistent.



When Lon did his last winter/spring, his were a bit too long and he ground just a bit off the bottom end of each of those so that only a few threads where above the nut. He still had to grind away the web, but at least he didn't have to machine the towers like people are having to do now. He also chased the holes with the grooved OEM bolts but I don't think he sprayed them out as much as I did.



-Jay

 

[GOTSOOT]

I took . 050 off the bottom of the washers and . 050 off the bottom of the nuts! still had to grind webs. installed once @122# W/-O rings and never looked back

 

[Woodenhead]

I took . 050 off the bottom of the washers and . 050 off the bottom of the nuts! still had to grind webs. installed once @122# W/-O rings and never looked back

How did you remove the material from the nuts and washers? Does "W/-O rings" mean you didn't use o-rings.



While I don't doubt what you did worked for you I can't say it's a practice I'd recommend to others.



Mike