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Help! Powder coated 3rd. gen. wheels won't come off!

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Ozone Warranty on Tires.

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My buddy's powder coated stock wheels have "married" themselves to the mounting plates on the axles. We've bashed the tires,loosened the nuts and rolled the vehicle back and forth to no avail. If we can get them off,we''ll smear anti-seize on the axle surface. What have you guys done to get these wheels off? Thanks and Happy New Year!
 
My buddy's powder coated stock wheels have "married" themselves to the mounting plates on the axles. We've bashed the tires,loosened the nuts and rolled the vehicle back and forth to no avail. If we can get them off,we''ll smear anti-seize on the axle surface. What have you guys done to get these wheels off? Thanks and Happy New Year!





Yep! Bigger hammer. If that fails, take it to a local tire shop, and tell them you want the tires rotated. Could be a little entertainment value in that. :D
 
We ended up putting a block of wood against the wheels..... using a port-a-power to press on the wheels and some heat...

Once we got them off... . it's always a coat of anti-seize when it goes back together... Good Luck
 
My buddy's powder coated stock wheels have "married" themselves to the mounting plates on the axles. We've bashed the tires,loosened the nuts and rolled the vehicle back and forth to no avail. If we can get them off,we''ll smear anti-seize on the axle surface. What have you guys done to get these wheels off? Thanks and Happy New Year!



Surely you have seen somebody swing a big 2x4 in a street fight... ... ... same thing works good on your stubborn wheel(just take on the tire not the wheel)



Bob
 
Stay tuned!

Surely you have seen somebody swing a big 2x4 in a street fight... ... ... same thing works good on your stubborn wheel(just take on the tire not the wheel)



Bob
We tried that too! We bashed on the tire with sledge hammers. We've got some more tricks coming up. Stay tuned. Must be the O. C. industrial strength powder coating. :)
 
I had the wheels you describe.



The rears were the ones that would not budge.



When I had my new tires/wheels installed, the rookie tire guy couldn't them off. Then the veteran came over and basically sat on the floor with his arms/hands behind him on the floor and kicked (pushed) one side of the tire with both feet a few times and it finally came off.



Both feet gave him better leverage than a large hammer or 2x4.



Good luck.

Louis
 
Wheels off!

We got 'em! i took a framing hammer and with a 2 x 4 bashed the inside rim where weights go and voila,off it came. We're going to paint a little anti-seize at the outer contact area. You could see where the powder coating had adhered itself to the hub. Gracias.
 
You can always leave the lug nuts backed off a few turns and take it for a ride. I usually do it iun a parking lot (the 5 or 6 times I've had to do it as a mechanic), loosen the nuts and then take it for a spin. If the don't loosen, I beat it a little harder. Eventually they come loose.

Joe
 
mine on the 06 were siezed on at 3k miles old. Took a beating to free em up. Nothing wrong with a beating once in a while.

Please dodge if your reading this use never sieze on new trucks we would be glad to kick in the extra 50 cents on a 45000. 00 truck to avoid this silly stuff.

My payment would only be about 1 cent more a month.
 
Anti seize?

You can always leave the lug nuts backed off a few turns and take it for a ride. I usually do it iun a parking lot (the 5 or 6 times I've had to do it as a mechanic), loosen the nuts and then take it for a spin. If the don't loosen, I beat it a little harder. Eventually they come loose.

Joe
We did that also,pulling out into the street and putting it into reverse,then forward. Wouldn't budge also. This guy just got back from two Baja trips totalling 1700 miles and Napa valley and back luckily without a flat. We painted anti seize on the inner mounting surface of the wheel. Does anybody see a danger in this? The lugs are clean and dry.
 
Please dodge if your reading this use never sieze on new trucks we would be glad to kick in the extra 50 cents on a 45000. 00 truck to avoid this silly stuff.



Fat chance. Are you suggesting Dodge might actually consider doing something that costs money up front, even if it saves money in warranty labor costs later? Heaven forbid!



"Anti Seize" is not in the Dodge dictionary.



We painted anti seize on the inner mounting surface of the wheel. Does anybody see a danger in this? The lugs are clean and dry.



I don't see any particular danger here, although I'd strongly advise putting anti-seize on the studs. You think a stuck wheel is tough? Try a frozen lug nut... NOT FUN.



Ryan
 
I had to use two 12 ton jacks on my trailer once. One on each side of the wheel with the bottom up against the trailer frame. That was "on the road". All the rims came off and got a coating of anti-seize when I got home.

An oak block to protect the rim from a BFH works great. Beat the crap outta the block and barely scratch the rim.
 
Most good tire shops have experienced this trouble. On my first tire switch, I brought it to a "Big O" tire shop as I expected to face trouble on this. These shops have a very heavy sledge with rubber on one side. It took a few swats with the truck in the air before they let go. Its great when a rack is available. Seems the first time off is the worst. Some people have had easy going. On the assembly lines, I doubt that few wheels are torqued on.
 
I have the same problem on my VW Jetta. Nothing a few thumps with a 5lb mallet doesn't fix. I use anti siezure medication on mine also but they are a tight fit to start with.
 
I would strongly recommend using anti-sieze on the studs also. I use anti-sieze religiously on everything. I believe that it gives a more accurate torque value. Also I like to put it on the tapered portion of the lug nut that contacts the wheel. You can bet that when you torque them down that area is going to be giving a lot of friction. THis is what I believe can throw off a torque measurement.
 
I would strongly recommend using anti-sieze on the studs also. I use anti-sieze religiously on everything. I believe that it gives a more accurate torque value. Also I like to put it on the tapered portion of the lug nut that contacts the wheel. You can bet that when you torque them down that area is going to be giving a lot of friction. THis is what I believe can throw off a torque measurement.



Addig any lubricant where not specified will make the actual torque higher than specified :) not more accurate. Most specs are given with the assumption of a light oil on the threads nothing more. In the case of our dually flange nuts,they call for a drop of oil where the flange washer and nut ride together.



TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

1500 Series Lug Nut 9/16 X 18 with 60° Cone LD 176 130 —

2500 & 3500 Series Lug Nut 9/16 X 18 with 60° Cone HD SRW 190 140 —

3500 Series Lug Nut 9/16 X 18 with Flat Washer HD DRW 197 145 —



Bob
 
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