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Oil Analysis results

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P0251 Irratic Rail Pressure

Very pleased with mods ie JR,HE351,ATS,etc

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I emailed them last night and here is their response.



Hi Joe, We don't ask if people are using programmers, so I can only generalize about that engine type. We have indeed seen poor results in diesels running synthetic oil -- not all diesels, and there's not anything wrong with Amsoil per se, but we do tend to see higher metals in diesels running synthetics than those running petroleum-based oil. While we do like bypass filters (they keep the oil cleaner than it would be otherwise), there is no filter we know of that can remove wear metals from the oil. The metals are just too small. I do think the soot and wear could be related to the short trips, and if that's your typical driving conditions then short oil changes may be all you need to help clean things up in your Cummins engine. If it were me, I would change the oil first, since it's an easy thing to change. Also, I would run a shorter oil change. If you don't want to try a different type of oil, then maybe just run a shorter oil change and see if that helps.



Sincerely, Kristin Huff
 
I would just run some lower oci's for now to get things back in order say every 5k. Do not worry about the copper, but the lead and iron is a little high. Try running your smarty on one of the lower levels until the motor warms up. My truck has the TST and I run it only on timing until it warms up, but a bypass filter like everyone suggested should help you out in the wear dept. by lowering the soot levels.
 
I think I am going to some of the old Delo and a 2,500 - 3,000 OCI.



The smarty is a programmer, it's hard to run on a lower level when cold.
 
Cattletrkr, those are some high numbers.







So I am a bit stumped. I am going to change the oil Sunday, but I can't decide if I should do a bypass filter and Amsoil again or if I should just go back to the Delo 400 CI-4
 
Did the Delo have better wear numbers, besides the copper???

I'm not seeing the benefit of running an expensive oil that will just get dumped, especially since no oil will protect well against soot buildup.

What filter are you running BTW?

steved
 
The only sample I had done with delo was early on, It's on the first page of this thread.



I don't see a reason to run expensive oil either if I have to dump it often.



I am running the Fleetguard stratapore filters.
 
I wonder if the Amsoil EaO filters would benefit you? They have a really impressive filtration efficiency.

I wonder if you have other "issues" causing this grief? Have you ever had the injectors checked? I wonder if a leaking injector would cause these problems?

steved
 
I wonder if the Amsoil EaO filters would benefit you? They have a really impressive filtration efficiency.



I wonder if you have other "issues" causing this grief? Have you ever had the injectors checked? I wonder if a leaking injector would cause these problems?



steved



Injectors have never been checked.



I will sample after running some delo and see how it looks.
 
I just don't see how you're having the problems you are, without several others having similar problems (those running Smarty)...



I have already posted my UOA of Rotella that had issues from my failing/leaking injectors (so I can't repost it). The oil was blacker than normal (even for my bypass) and the fuel was elevated very slightly. Everything else was more/less normal, however, I did have an increase in lead and iron that I attributed it to towing in the Rockys. Maybe my results would have been more like yours had I not had the bypass installed?



steved
 
Maybe there aren't many others that have had their oil tested while running the Smarty.



My oil is BLACK after a few thousand miles and has a strange odor.



I don't know that I am going to worry too much until I get a sample taken with delo.



I will change the oil on Sunday after a drive to get the engine good and hot.
 
Cattletrkr, those are some high numbers.



So I am a bit stumped. I am going to change the oil Sunday, but I can't decide if I should do a bypass filter and Amsoil again or if I should just go back to the Delo 400 CI-4
I can't find the UOA that followed the one with the high copper, but it came back down to earth. Not back to the single digits, but I think 30-40ish. I wish I could find it. I think that might have been lst summer when I was running Mobile 15w-40 but I don't recall for sure.
 
gents,

where are you pulling your oil sample from? i ordered a sample kit from blackstone, but have not seen their "instructions. " specifically, are you pulling it from the filter or from the pan? i'm assuming that there could be some solids that don't get past the filer. could the results be different when pulling the oil from the filter? i'm not sure how i'd get the oil trapped in the filter without introducing metal shavings. thanks. brannon
 
Not from the filter... that is a sure way to get high readings.

Typically you start draining from the pan, allow it to drain for a little bit, then pull the sample from the stream... preferably halfway through draining.

If you are trying to extend the OCI, they make a pump that uses a tube inserted into the dipstick tube to collect a sample...
 
thanks for the response. if it's in the filter, then isn't that a true measure of the engine's "health"? i assumed that the engine chucking parts is what we'd be looking for. i'd be interested in extending the OCI as well, but i thought it'd be a way to start a baseline. especially since my truck is bone stock. thanks again, brannon
 
thanks for the response. if it's in the filter, then isn't that a true measure of the engine's "health"? i assumed that the engine chucking parts is what we'd be looking for. i'd be interested in extending the OCI as well, but i thought it'd be a way to start a baseline. especially since my truck is bone stock. thanks again, brannon



I agree. A lousy oil with an excellent filter, will make it look like the engine is in pristine condition, when in fact there could be a pound of metal in the filter.



Maybe a better way would be to cut the oil filter and remove the paper and all debris, and have it analyzed and weighted. That's what they do for air filters, but it's much harder when you have the weight of the oil to deal with.

That's no $50 oil test anymore, more like a few hundred.



This is why it's bogus to rely on an OIL analysys to tell you whether or not the AIR FILTER is doing its job. The oil filter could hide the evidence of damage.



I'll just stick to 5w-40 rotella synth every 10K and let someone else worry about analysis. And I'll open the oil fill cap and check for blowby every few oil changes, to get an idea if the engine is starting to wear.
 
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