Destroyed a 5.9

[cerberusiam]

I think your wright Dave, my truck has a rear main leak two dealers told me the truck is to heavy for there lifts what a cop out.



MMeier

I dont think it is a pvc like as gas motor. It is a crank case filter that pulls oil out of the air and sends it back into the engine and not out the vent tube. 3rd gens have them. Had a 01 in here that had something like it but didnt have to work that part of it so didnt look that close.



04. 5 3500 cc 4wd dully 373 6speed 50k

93 2500 xc 2wd 354 auto 250k

I don't think so. A diesel will run on the crank case fumes. That is NOT a reccomended approach. If there is a filter its hidden soewhere cuz mine ain't got no such a critter I can see.

 

[DGamelin]

The return for the oil goes into the crank case not the intake mine has a check valve in the tube to the crank case. The filter is on the top of the valve cover under that plastic dressing on top mine is a 04. 5 If you have the new issue 60 handy on page 92 the hole in the cover is where it goes, it is lying just to the left in the picture. It's purpose is to help stop oil fumes from exiting the engine. Oil collects in the filter then runs back into the crank case, and the other tube is your vent. A pvc valve on a gas motor is there to burn unburnt gas fumes like you said.

 

[DGamelin]

A 92 had nothing like this on it, just a open vent tube. My 93 is the same my 93 can go 1200 miles before the oil turns dark. My 04 cant go around the block before it is black. I suspect this might be one of the factors for that. A straight vent will let more carbon particles out of the engine. For emissions reasons they have to keep them in the engine.

 

[MMeier]

I believe what you are talking about then is the oil seperator , way different from a PCV system.

 

[DGamelin]

In the shop manual they call it a crankcase breather. I would say oil separator would be a good description. Your right way different.

 

[DPelletier]

A bit of an update;



- They are replacing the motor under warranty (short block only) They claim the turbo and head are still good.



I concur that it is unlikely that the filter contamination was caused by the diesel in the crankcase; there wasn't THAT much oil in the engine compartment..... I just can't figure out how the filter could have collapsed and been "black" with only pavement highway miles and with the filter being changed/inspected by the dealership every 5000 miles.



I will talk to the Service Manager and make sure he understands that one (or more) of the injectors are bad as well and unless it is changed, the problem will likely repeat itself.



Other than that, I'll tell my 4 guys that are driving the Cummins' trucks to NEVER take the filter out for any reason, to keep an eye on the filter minder, to make sure the truck gets serviced at the recommended intervals by the dealer and to stop driving it immediately if the check engine light comes on.



Cheers,

Dave

 

[JCasper]

A bit of an update;



- They are replacing the motor under warranty (short block only) They claim the turbo and head are still good.



I concur that it is unlikely that the filter contamination was caused by the diesel in the crankcase; there wasn't THAT much oil in the engine compartment..... I just can't figure out how the filter could have collapsed and been "black" with only pavement highway miles and with the filter being changed/inspected by the dealership every 5000 miles.



I will talk to the Service Manager and make sure he understands that one (or more) of the injectors are bad as well and unless it is changed, the problem will likely repeat itself.



Other than that, I'll tell my 4 guys that are driving the Cummins' trucks to NEVER take the filter out for any reason, to keep an eye on the filter minder, to make sure the truck gets serviced at the recommended intervals by the dealer and to stop driving it immediately if the check engine light comes on.



Cheers,

Dave

What dealer does your service?

 

[DPelletier]

The same local dealer I bought the truck from.



Dave

 

[gonzo2]

Hmm... mines parked at a local Kelowna dealer too. Must be a TDR special. :-laf

 

[DPelletier]

:-laf



KC or SC??



Dave

 

[gonzo2]

KC, it's actually at the body shop from an old hat trying to back up in a parking lot.

I think SC is now OC.

 

[DPelletier]

KC, it's actually at the body shop from an old hat trying to back up in a parking lot.

I think SC is now OC.

Mine too. Actually we have quite a bit in common; the '06 is heading to the bodyshop right after the motor replacement! #@$%!



If you go down there, it's the blue one with the full rack on it. Take a look for a laugh (at my expense!). :-laf



Dave

 

[gonzo2]

Yeah, I saw it there on Friday, looked pretty lonely...

What I'd like to do is check out the classic Mopar muscle in your sig.



On another note, my neighbor showed up the other day with an tarry, oily mess all over his Mini which needed a good shot of degreaser to get off. Said he had only been highway driving too. He didn't notice it 'till he was home but said he had been South of town. I told him he should check his air filter.

 

[DPelletier]

PM sent.



That's weird about the oily residue... ... I'll have my guys keep an eye on the trucks going to Penticton.



Cheers,

Dave

 

[DerekW]

I think your wright Dave, my truck has a rear main leak two dealers told me the truck is to heavy for there lifts what a cop out.



MMeier

I dont think it is a pvc like as gas motor. It is a crank case filter that pulls oil out of the air and sends it back into the engine and not out the vent tube. 3rd gens have them. Had a 01 in here that had something like it but didnt have to work that part of it so didnt look that close.



04. 5 3500 cc 4wd dully 373 6speed 50k

93 2500 xc 2wd 354 auto 250k

I just replaced my rear main while i hadmy transmission during a swap not to long ago. its not hard to replace. I did it myself on the ground. and I still dont have a transmission jack. I reccomend if you have a g56 to get one as they are rib crushers. modded 48re's with heavy deep pans and billet converters are also very bell housing heavy but not near as much as the g56. but anyways its really not that hard to pull the transmission. try 60+ bolts to do the job



heres how i got that figure this is all off the top of my head but it has been a while since i played with a 4re these figures are based off my 4wd truck:

1 bolt on t-case drain

1 bolt(if aftermarket pan equipped) on trans pan drain

4 bolts on rear drive shaft flange at axle

2 carrier bearing bolts

4 bolts at t-case front output yoke(front driveshaft only requires a pair of dike's (mark spline relation 1st) to disconnect from axle housing (trying to make this a driveway no specialty tool job)

1. 5 (remove one loosen other) bolts on torque converter bolt access cover

6 or 12(aftermarket only) on torque converter

4 bolts on 2 piece drivetrain mount

4 bolts on crossmember

6 bolts on t-case

1 or two for the shift linkage (48re)

8 bolts (i believe on the bellhousing

maybe up to four more bolts to get the transmission out (been a while since played with 48re)

transmission FITS UNDER REAR PART OF FRAME WHERE FRAME BENDS UP INFRONT OF REAR AXLE. (remember we are in the driveway still and never unbolted wheels.

. 5 +. 5 =1 (bolts)loosen neg terminals on batteries and undo batteries

1 or 2 nuts on the starter starter positive cable

3 bolts to unbolt starter from bellhousing adapter

8 bolts to unbolt adapter from engine

6 bolts total to remove rear main seal adapter



I dont think the kit came with instructions for the tools that came with kit. but you leave the seal iinstalled on the one tool. take the other part and slide on end of crank. then use the other tool to knock the seal on with hammer. then bolt back the way it all came out.



this is just a break down of all the bolts to show how many bolts it is. there are springs, dipstick (you removed the bolt above), electrical connector, vent line, exhaust hanger (you unbolted from bellhousing above, aftermarket downpipes may not have hanger mine doesnt), etc. .



At one point i was getting good with the 48re's and had them sitting next to the truck in 45minutes but we just added a lil bit more things to unbolt, unplg, unhook etc. and from time 48re was sitting next to the truck to time i was driving truck was approx 1 hour and 30 minutes never watched the clock going in I took my time. I do everything myself in my driveway by myself. its not hard just time consuming. I never done one until this truck. only seen and lent a hand on some parts of the job but this truck was my 1st to remove an automatic and replace. 1st truck to ever install a clutch on (during my 48re to g56 swap). it aint hard just use your common sense.

 

[DerekW]

I think your wright Dave, my truck has a rear main leak two dealers told me the truck is to heavy for there lifts what a cop out.

pansies! mop the concrete and lay on it!!! tell them their concrete should hold the truck up just fine.



i had a buddy in NC that run a transmission shop his setup included a jack and jack stands. and he did everything like that. his son pulled them and he rebuilt em

 

[RABruce]

PM sent.



That's weird about the oily residue... ... I'll have my guys keep an eye on the trucks going to Penticton.



Cheers,

Dave

Hey Dave.

Is that Terry's truck?

Rob

 

[MCummings]

3 months have passed.



Any news?



Merrick

 

[MrFixit]

3 months have passed.



Any news?



Merrick

Ditto, any update?

 

[carson6]

superchip with no gauges = melted pistons and no warranty