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Anyone have a Coleman Mach 3 Power Saver 13.5K A/C on their RV?

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AH64ID

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I am looking at getting the A/C unit in the title for my TT. I have a Honda 2000 Generator and the amp draw on that unit is perfect... My question is can you get it with ducted cooling? My TT is already ducted and would like to use it. It looks like I can, but can only find the parts on one or two web sites and they have the high prices.



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Sorry, I do not. Can you please tell me what the amp draw is on that unit? I have a Honda 2000 also and I haven't tried running my A/C with it.
 
Something I learned about the Honda 2000's and others. They will generate their stated amps and watts--at sea level. For every 1000' elevation, you lose about 2%. The Honda 2000 is an 1800 watt generator, with surge to 2000. At 5000', you're down to a surge of of about 1800 and a running of less than that. That being said, I love my Honda! It will run my 13,500 a/c at sea level, but not much more than that. Also, remember the amp draw running on the a/c is about 13, but the start up is around 18 or 20, so I've been told. Of course, if you have two 2000's, life is good!
 
1800 watts/120 V AC = 15 amps... simple ohm's law... .

If your AC draws 13 amps than you don't have much reserve for the converter, or any other items you might need to run, or want to run... of course you could turn off the AC and run the other items and restart the AC later... .

Hope this helps. .
 
Sorry, I do not. Can you please tell me what the amp draw is on that unit? I have a Honda 2000 also and I haven't tried running my A/C with it.



10. 2, they say startup is double... but I have read about many a RVer using their Honda 2000 with this unit. .



Something I learned about the Honda 2000's and others. They will generate their stated amps and watts--at sea level. For every 1000' elevation, you lose about 2%. The Honda 2000 is an 1800 watt generator, with surge to 2000. At 5000', you're down to a surge of of about 1800 and a running of less than that. That being said, I love my Honda! It will run my 13,500 a/c at sea level, but not much more than that. Also, remember the amp draw running on the a/c is about 13, but the start up is around 18 or 20, so I've been told. Of course, if you have two 2000's, life is good!



They, at least mine, is actually 1600 continuous and 2000 for 30 minutes. Honda sells different jets, couple bucks each, that are easy to change, about 2 minutes, that will help with the running at altitude but you still suffer from the 3% hp loss per 1K feet. That being said the limit on power will be be hp not generating capabilities. I would assume that the gen can make more power than the hp required to make 2KW, so it will take more than 1K feet to feel a loss. The gen I have was used exclusively at 6K feet, until this year, for probable 300-500 hours of running over the last 5-6 years... It has had some very very heavy loads in the 1600_ range and never seemed to even struggle. . Even at the heaviest of loads I could turn off the econo mode and gain rpms.



1800 watts/120 V AC = 15 amps... simple ohm's law... .



If your AC draws 13 amps than you don't have much reserve for the converter, or any other items you might need to run, or want to run... of course you could turn off the AC and run the other items and restart the AC later... .



Hope this helps. .



Thats why I like the Power Saver, 10. 2 amps when running, leaving 3 amps to spare on the continuous rating and 6. 4 amps for 30 minutes... Yes I will have to be careful with power, but its worth it to have the small, light, quiet, fuel sipping 2000.
 
I ended up buying a used (but only 1 our on it) Honda 3000 and it can run most of the RV all at once. The 2k can only run the a/c before it is at max. Generally, a/c units like yours draw around 1600-1800 watts. That leaves nothing more in reserve from the 2k generator. I found mine locally on CraigsList. Try places like that and you might get lucky. Mine was $800 less than new, but it was essentially new and runs great. Look around and you'll find one that does the job for cheaper.
 
Thats one of the things I like about the power saver A/C it only draws 1150-1350 watts, leaving a little in reserve for lights/etc... I will have to run the fridge on gas only when cooling, but thats no biggie.
 
Actually, that's exactly what I had in mind. When I have my RV at home getting it ready for a trip, I plug it in to a regular household socket for power. That socket is a standard 15 amps and if I run the a/c and the fridge at the same time it trips the breaker in the house. If I put the fridge on gas, then it's ok.
 
Another thing you can try is flipping the breaker to the convertor off. If I want to run my a/c, I want all the power that little generator can produce to the a/c only. That way I have a chance!:-laf I can charge the batteries in the morning when it is cooler.
 
Actually, that's exactly what I had in mind. When I have my RV at home getting it ready for a trip, I plug it in to a regular household socket for power. That socket is a standard 15 amps and if I run the a/c and the fridge at the same time it trips the breaker in the house. If I put the fridge on gas, then it's ok.



I like to hear that... .
 
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