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Front axle 4X4 disconnect possible ?

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After replacing the lift pump on my new to me 04 -3500 I was rolling around under the truck getting aquainted with my new buddy :D and discovered the front axle is always hooked up with the only disconnect in the T -case. I was wanting to hook up a disconnect like I did on my 96 so I can go into low range with out 4X4 lock up. With a camper or horse trailer it is nice to be able to low range over rough ground with out the bind-up that 4X causes. Has any one found a way to dis-con the front axle like hubs or ??
 
all the hub deal means is you have to get mud or snow on yourself when you get out of the truck. no more shift on the fly, all the time I use my 4wd in neighborhoods because the roads are slick but once I get to the main roads they are fine, so I shift out, I have also been in many situations where I needed 4x4 quickly and NOW to keep from wrecking or getting stuck, don't have that with a locking hub setup. Also all the guys I know that had locking hubs that came on their older 4WD trucks seem to have to rebuild and replace them from time to time, I think the hub system is less reliable, more prone to failure and more PIA that our setup, also getting stuck in the snow in the utah desert with a buddies ford that HAD bad locking hubs that we didn't know needed replacement might have something else to do with my dislike for locking hubs, we would have never gotten stuck if the hubs had worked properly or we had been in a dodge. I will take shift on the fly anyday, I say just pull the driveshaft in the summer time and you will have what you want at least during that time
 
Hubs not problem for me --

I have always liked hubs and have had no real problems with them. If the conditions are ugly or I suspect them to get that way I twist em in and use the T-case for shift on the fly. It is nice to be able to low range in the rough stuff with a trailer or camper or backing a trailer into a tight spot with out clutch smoke and with out binding up the whole drive train. Why spin all those joints all the time, I have to rebuild enough stuff already and if I can add a little fuel econo --right now I will take anything I can get.



Where did you get your hub kits ???
 
I like having less parts. Plus, I don't like front end parts to lie dormant for long periods of time ... ... ... . hard on ujoints etc.

The mileage gain is up in the air as far as I'm concerned, and would never pay for itself.
 
I am ordering the EMS they are the only one that makes a one pice hub for dulles. I use my truck for hulling. I like the use of low range for backing up. Also the mpg.



93 2500 xc 2wd 354 auto 250k

04. 5 3500 cc 4wd dully 373 6speed 51k smarty
 
all the hub deal means is you have to get mud or snow on yourself when you get out of the truck. no more shift on the fly, all the time I use my 4wd in neighborhoods because the roads are slick but once I get to the main roads they are fine, so I shift out, I have also been in many situations where I needed 4x4 quickly and NOW to keep from wrecking or getting stuck, don't have that with a locking hub setup.....

Just lock the hubs and leave em locked before getting into marginal situations and bingo you have shift on the fly again. Unlocking the hubs is easier than pulling the driveshaft, yes?



As for the hub kits, EMS is so proud of their kits they hide their redrilled spindles under a paper logo. :rolleyes:



Dynatrac and now it looks like Solid is making the hub kits too. The Solid kit may be worth a closer look as the ABS ring is completely sealed: Front SpynTec Conversion Kit For Dodge 00-04 - Spyntec Conversion Kits - Solid Axle
 
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Redrilled spindles, that is disappointing. But for dully owners a one piece hub would be nice. I don't like adapters they're trouble.
 
all the hub deal means is you have to get mud or snow on yourself when you get out of the truck. no more shift on the fly, all the time I use my 4wd in neighborhoods because the roads are slick but once I get to the main roads they are fine, so I shift out, I have also been in many situations where I needed 4x4 quickly and NOW to keep from wrecking or getting stuck, don't have that with a locking hub setup. Also all the guys I know that had locking hubs that came on their older 4WD trucks seem to have to rebuild and replace them from time to time, I think the hub system is less reliable, more prone to failure and more PIA that our setup, also getting stuck in the snow in the utah desert with a buddies ford that HAD bad locking hubs that we didn't know needed replacement might have something else to do with my dislike for locking hubs, we would have never gotten stuck if the hubs had worked properly or we had been in a dodge. I will take shift on the fly anyday, I say just pull the driveshaft in the summer time and you will have what you want at least during that time





First off there is nothing unreliable about locking hubs. In your situation Leave the hubs locked and when you go for a long highway trip unlock them. One of the biggest advantages of the hub conversion is the replacement of the OEM poorly designes unit wheel bearings. When you service your wheel bearings you service your hubs.
 
I agree with what's been said... if you know it *might* be bad, then lock them in to have an OE-like shift-on-the-fly. Its not like weather "sneaks up on you. " Another way to look at it is the fact that most of us don't have year-round weather requiring the option of 4wd (although there are those that probably run 4wd all the time, including bare blacktop). I run cross country in all weather... I can count on both hands how many times I actually locked my hubs in, and I can count on one hand how many times I actually used 4wd.

I've had the DT kit installed since spring 2006, which means around 93k miles to date... I have had a single problem with the kit in that time, which was limited to the chrome flaking off the hubs themselves (and DT promptly sent me replacements when I contacted them).

As far as not paying for itself, we've been down that road too. I think it was Gary that figured it would take less than 75k miles for the hubs to start showing a return. I can show a more/less solid 1mpg gain from the hubs alone... while that doesn't sound like much, it adds up with today's prices. Its not like its NOT at least paying for some of itself.

I like the fact that it means less moving parts, less wear on those parts, and (in my case) less vibrations from those moving parts. I have never seen a ujoint fail because it wasn't worked (if that were the case, they'd go bad sitting on a shelf??). And as already eluded to, 2-lo makes backing a trailer a snap.
 
Ujoints on the shelf don't have road spray seeping into them to just lay in one spot.



IF, IF, there is a 1mpg gain, 75,000/80,000 miles sounds about right, before breaking even. In town commuters will most likely never realize that, nor will guys towing most of the time.



I think it's more a matter of personal preference, and needs. I've only had (3) unitized bearings replaced in 425,000 miles. And @ 18,000#'s I'll never see a 1mpg gain. And pulling a trailer in/out of barns all over the country, a 4x4 situation has snuck up on me more times than I can count year 'round.
 
Ujoints on the shelf don't have road spray seeping into them to just lay in one spot.



IF, IF, there is a 1mpg gain, 75,000/80,000 miles sounds about right, before breaking even. In town commuters will most likely never realize that, nor will guys towing most of the time.



I think it's more a matter of personal preference, and needs. I've only had (3) unitized bearings replaced in 425,000 miles. And @ 18,000#'s I'll never see a 1mpg gain. And pulling a trailer in/out of barns all over the country, a 4x4 situation has snuck up on me more times than I can count year 'round.











My axle joints have over 90k of shelf time on them... they lasted 20k longer than the OEs that were moving... :D



On a side note, I didn't actually buy the DT kit for all the proclaimed benefits... I have one of the early 3rd gens with the all but incurable "70mph vibes". This was the only *sure* way to rid the truck of the vibrations. Everything else was bonus...
 
How much have you spent on replacing those 3 unit bearings? Probably could have bought some hubs with that money, yes?



I like having less parts. Plus, I don't like front end parts to lie dormant for long periods of time ... ... ... . hard on ujoints etc... ...



Ujoints on the shelf don't have road spray seeping into them to just lay in one spot... ... .
Forgetting the other costs, your position is it is better to pay a 1 mpg penalty for the life of the truck to maybe save a set of ujoints? If the thought of the parts at rest for too long bothers you, simply put it in 4x4 for a few blocks when you start out every morning, no need to lock the hubs.



Come on you hub hater guys, you have to come up with better arguments.





... . I think it's more a matter of personal preference, and needs. ... .....
Bingo. Don't like em don't get them...
 
How much have you spent on replacing those 3 unit bearings? Probably could have bought some hubs with that money, yes?...
I bet I don't have $900 in those 3 replacements. I've got 4 to spare!



Forgetting the other costs, your position is it is better to pay a 1 mpg penalty for the life of the truck to maybe save a set of ujoints?...
An 8500# dually, dragging a 10,000# trailer is not going to see a 1mpg gain. A person doing mostly stop/go driving, is not going to see a 1mpg gain. In fact, I've not seen any hard evidence of anybody gaining 1mpg ... ... ... ... . let's see those fuel logs!



Come on you hub hater guys, you have to come up with better arguments. Bingo. Don't like em don't get them...

I'm not a hub hater, they have their place, I just don't need them and forum members want to hear both sides of the story.
 
Most people would have spent much more replacing 3 unit bearings, I take it you did them yourself and got a good price on the bearings?



Before I got freewheeling hubs I took the temps of the diffs after a long drive, the rear was 147 F. and the front was 143 F. It takes energy to heat the mass of oil and metal making up the front axle. Remember that air is constantly flowing over the axle cooling it and yet it still got to 143 F, so you can see there is much wasted energy in constantly turning the front end. No matter what you pull or how heavy you are, you will save the energy that would otherwise been consumed to create heat in the front axle assembly as well as wear and tear on the driveline.



As far as both sides of the story... . maybe later we can make a list of pros and cons. Other than cost, the cons so far are very dubious indeed.
 
Most people would have spent much more replacing 3 unit bearings, I take it you did them yourself and got a good price on the bearings?
My dealer likes to sell parts. I don't even go to NAPA or AutoZone unless it's an issue with greaseable vs non-greasable.

Before I got freewheeling hubs I took the temps of the diffs after a long drive, the rear was 147 F. and the front was 143 F. It takes energy to heat the mass of oil and metal making up the front axle. Remember that air is constantly flowing over the axle cooling it and yet it still got to 143 F, so you can see there is much wasted energy in constantly turning the front end. No matter what you pull or how heavy you are, you will save the energy that would otherwise been consumed to create heat in the front axle assembly as well as wear and tear on the driveline.
It's all relative. A single cab short bed doing 15-16mpg, may notice some fuel mileage improvement. A quad cab dually, pulling a load doing 11. 5-12mpg aint gonna see squat. You can't paint with such a broad brush and call me a "hub hater", it just doesn't fit my needs ... ... ... ... ... of course the guy commuting in a single cab short bed probably bought a vehicle that doesn't really suit his needs!
 
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