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Need to build an adjustable boost elbow... questions..

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AH64ID

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In order to keep my drive pressure in check I want my WG back in the picture. I am going to run a line from the intake to the OE WG, and set it at about 35psi. .



In order to make the install look clean I would like to use an adjustable boost elbow with 1/8" NPT on both side, vs the usual 1/8/ NPT x hose barb... I have been unable to find one for purchase so I plan to make one. .



While the concept seems straight foreword I haven't ever looked at one up close. So some questions.



The adjutability just comes from not allowing full air to flow, thus reducing the pressure??



The adj elbows are just off the shelf 90*'s that have been drilled and tapped for a plug?



How tall is the plug, and how much of the fitting gets tapped (i. e. from the mount to the bend? just the bend?)



Thanks for all the help.
 
Never had one apart, but I always assumed it was just an adjustable check valve that allowed you to set the cracking pressure with the little allen head screw.

--Eric
 
The elbow is tapped at the bend, parallel with one side, 90* to the other. Then you can just adjust the allen head plug in or out to restrict or open the elbow.



You just have to keep adjusting until you get your desired setting. The more restricted the higher the boost, before the wastegate opens.



Yes, off the shelf stuff, mine had loctite or teflon goop on the allen plug, I assumed to keep it from moving. The threads on the elbow are only on one end, the other end is a barbed fitting that the hose to the wastegate diaphram connects to.
 
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If you just restrict flow it will be a pressure delay valve. The pressure will eventually equal on both sides of the valve. How they are made is a restriction and a SMALL bleed hole down stream from the restriction. This make a CRUDE pressure reducing valve. IE, 30lbs in, 20 lbs out due to the restriction and the are bleeding of at a fixed rate. Make sense? One like this might work, http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=JFC-2 This is a GOOD QUALITY flow control valve, long tapered stem for precise control. I made one out of this valve and it worked good but I had to loctite the stem after I got it set where I wanted it. Use the wicking type of loctite. You will need to drill a small hole ( start with the smallest drill you can find). Pay close attention to which way the valve is plumbed as it only restricts one way, the other way is full flow . Or you can find a needle valve, (not a flow control), and it should be the same flow both ways. Something like this Plumbing > Valves > Needle Valves > Valve,Needle,1/8 In : Grainger Industrial Supply. Then if you have an air supply, a good pressure regulator, and a pressure gage you could test/set it on the bench.
 
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I am confused on this weep hole... None of the add on systems I have seen for pre 04. 5 turbos have them, and no one seems to say. . I get 35 psi of boost, then it settles back to 22 after 30 seconds. .

I understand why, but don't see them being used.
 
I am confused on this weep hole... None of the add on systems I have seen for pre 04. 5 turbos have them, and no one seems to say. . I get 35 psi of boost, then it settles back to 22 after 30 seconds. .



I understand why, but don't see them being used.



The hole is there you just need to look closer. It is small



Bob
 
Yes it is,The hole must be there to bleed off pressure or as someone posted earlier you would still get the same pressure delivered



Bob



Thanks. . I understand why, and often wondered how it would work since pressure would equalize eventually.
 
If you just restrict flow it will be a pressure delay valve. The pressure will eventually equal on both sides of the valve. How they are made is a restriction and a SMALL bleed hole down stream from the restriction. This make a CRUDE pressure reducing valve. IE, 30lbs in, 20 lbs out due to the restriction and the are bleeding of at a fixed rate. Make sense? One like this might work, http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=JFC-2 This is a GOOD QUALITY flow control valve, long tapered stem for precise control. I made one out of this valve and it worked good but I had to loctite the stem after I got it set where I wanted it. Use the wicking type of loctite. You will need to drill a small hole ( start with the smallest drill you can find). Pay close attention to which way the valve is plumbed as it only restricts one way, the other way is full flow . Or you can find a needle valve, (not a flow control), and it should be the same flow both ways. Something like this Plumbing > Valves > Needle Valves > Valve,Needle,1/8 In : Grainger Industrial Supply. Then if you have an air supply, a good pressure regulator, and a pressure gage you could test/set it on the bench.



Yes, this is correct, I completely forgot about this feature. (the small hole)



I have one(actually a couple), give me your address, and I will mail it to you. Free, no problem. Jess
 
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I have tried them all and have found these to work the best -



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They are $85. 00 and as reliable as can be. There is also a check valve inside that helps spool-up response due to having to overcome the check valve spring inside before the wastegate gets the signal.



They are also available in black so they look like a factory part.
 
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