2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front wheel bearing OMG

[The patriot]

#@$%!#@$%!#@$%!

I need to do the front wheel bearing.

I priced a local trusted shop.

$750 for one side w/o seals etc. etc. He "couldnt find" the unit for less than $360. I dont even want to know what the ******* wants.

Both sides with new U joints, seals etc is right around $2000!!#@$%!

Has anyone done this themselves?

I have the time, but physically I dont know if I'm up to it. At least not all at one time.

I dont mind leaving the truck up on blocks for a few weeks or so. But I do want to get er done.

I've found the hub assy/wheel bearing unit (with 4 wh ABS) for just over $200+ shipping. More importantly it's a Timken.

How involved a job is this? Any special tools needed?

I know there are conversions out there, and I do plan on keeping this truck forever, but I'd like to keep this job as simple as possible.

Is there any way to make this a greasable unit before I install it?

Thanks

Eric

 

[Pavemen]

What year truck? 2500 or 3500? If its an earlier truck with the rotors fixed to the hub, then you may want to evaluate the condition of the rotors and wheel studs at this time and change them if you think they need it since the wheel studs attach the rotor to the hub. Might as well change them now instead of having to do it again later.

Also, if its an older model (pre-98 IIRC) then you do not need a specific ABS unit bearing. If the ABS pickup is on the back of the knuckle, then just buy a non-ABS unit bearing for cheaper since the tone ring is on the stub shaft.

 

[PRohr]

If your brake rotors are questionable now is the time to do them as well since wheel studs are pressed into the hubs and rotors holding the assembly together. I got new rotors, hubs and studs and put them together on the bench one night so that assembly was all set and ready to go. You can press the hub assembly out if needed by using a socket extension and the power steering as a hydraulic press. Soak them down with PB Blaster and then pull the 14mm 12 point bolts out... . all but one and leave it loose so it holds the hub assembly from falling. I put never seize in the knuckle after I clean out all the corrosion and dirt and road grime and put the new hub assembly back in and torque everything down. Here is a pic of the socket extension being used as a press:

 

[Adventure Bob]

This is an easy repair. Due to the cost of the unit bearing Im going to a Dynatrac or Solid no spin kit. Dynatrac. Bearing for these are about $40. If you change your front wheel unit bearing twice it's worth it. It's almost worth it if you let the dealer do it once.

 

[The patriot]

Yea, I guess it would help if I put up some specs.

It's a 1998 2500 4x4 with the 4 wheel ABS.

 

[rholcom2]

You can do it. Just grab a sack of nuts and go at it. Once you are into it its pretty self explanatory.

 

[DLausche]

May want to also consider doing the ball joints while you have it ripped apart.



The socket extension like detailed here is by far the easiest way to get the bearing out of the knuckle. Then, support the rotor/bearing on two 2x4s and use a large hammer and a good whack on each stud to get them out. You should be able to reuse the studs. Use anti seize liberally on the new bearing when assembling it to the knuckle. If you do not need to, then I would recommend not pulling the axle shafts out as each time they come out or go in you take a chance on nicking the oil seal in the axle.



-Deon

 

[kenny61]

You need some large sockets and wrenches other than that its mostly grunt work. nothing too technical. .

 

[kenny61]

I cant think of the member but he drilled his hubs in a spot and put a zerk in it with good results I think a few others have as well. There is a link to exactly what he did in his signature

 

[The patriot]

I cant think of the member but he drilled his hubs in a spot and put a zerk in it with good results I think a few others have as well. There is a link to exactly what he did in his signature

Yes, I know. I cant think of their name either.....

Thanks for all the replys. I dont have 2K for this right now, guess I'll end up doing it myself.

Financially this couldn't have happened to me at a worse time.

 

[kenny61]

Amazing how the mind works, somedays...



Cumminspower98



Ram Modifications

 

[The patriot]

Did anyone ever tell you... . Your da man! ?

I have a 1" socket set, so I'm covered there.

Thanks!

Eric

 

[kenny61]

Did anyone ever tell you... . Your da man! ?

Eric

Yes but not as much as they call me other things

 

[VolsFan]

I got my hub assemnly from Napa for my drivers side when it crapped out on me back in the fall. I think it was around $250, no more than that though. It was tore up pretty bad, left me stranded on the road. Not near as complicated as I thought it would be. One thing it did though was tear up my axle seal. Leaked out for a while. Have had it in 4wd a bunch of times and still engages, knock on wood.

 

[fest3er]

Yes, I know. I cant think of their name either.....

Thanks for all the replys. I dont have 2K for this right now, guess I'll end up doing it myself.

Financially this couldn't have happened to me at a worse time.

BTW, you may find the axle nuts rather difficult to get off. It can be done with a 1/2" breaker bar, but I think a 3/4" or 1" would be better. And, of course, a 1" impact with enough air will zip them right off.



Remove the cotter key and put the breaker bar/socket on the nut so the handle's somewhat under horizontal. Then use a floor jack to ever-so-slowly lift the handle and loosen the nut. I suppose a long cheater pipe would work, but the jack yields much better torque multiplication for the effort you'll expend.

 

[wcjp]

BTW, you may find the axle nuts rather difficult to get off. It can be done with a 1/2" breaker bar, but I think a 3/4" or 1" would be better. And, of course, a 1" impact with enough air will zip them right off.



Remove the cotter key and put the breaker bar/socket on the nut so the handle's somewhat under horizontal. Then use a floor jack to ever-so-slowly lift the handle and loosen the nut. I suppose a long cheater pipe would work, but the jack yields much better torque multiplication for the effort you'll expend.

Prelube the threads with penetrant. An impact will take the nut off quickly. For ultimate ease take the axle shafts to your favorite Ujoint supply place. Have them install new Ujoints. Apply lots of antiseize to the new Unit bearing where the metal meets the axle. This aid your next disassembly. The only special tool I can think off is the socket for the axle nut.

 

[The patriot]

Thanks guys. I am definetly an anti seize guy.

I put this stuff on everything I take apart.

Eric

 

[kenny61]

Keep it out of that AR:-laf

 

[The patriot]

No no. That's what the Slip 2000 EWL is for.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Ditto on teh never-seize when I redid mine this second time the hubs fell out in my hands after the bolts were loosened. Comparatively it was a picnic. I vote for doing rotors, ball joints while you're in there.