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Front End Pinion Seal?

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Crawling around under my truck the other day and saw that the bottom of my front diff was wet looking. Wiped it with a rag and thought that maybe my engine breather tube was causing it. Checked it this afternoon and noticed that it was wet again. Checked fluid level and was able to touch it with my finger. Changed diff fluid about 12,000 miles age w/amsoil 75w 140. Could it be pinion seal? No play in the front drive shaft. Gasket on cover? Doesn't seem to leak much.
 
The pinion seal leak on the AAM front is not rare... ... ..... it will only get worse once it starts. It requires a puller for the yoke,you can use the nut to pull it back on.
 
Thanks for the help guys! Is further disassembly required to remove/replace the seal, or can I just do it by removing the yoke? Wondering where a good source would be to get a replacement seal. Dealer?:{
 
Thanks for the help guys! Is further disassembly required to remove/replace the seal, or can I just do it by removing the yoke? Wondering where a good source would be to get a replacement seal. Dealer?:{



Once the yoke is out,pop the seal out drive the new seal home. When re-installing the yoke make sure you end up with the same turning torque
 
So does any one know the torque spec for the nut and what size socket it will take?



There is no torque spec for the nut... ... ... ..... The goal is to tighten the nut till the same turning torque you had before you removed the yoke is acheived. This keeps the bearing preload correct



The nut is around 33mm give or take I have CRS
 
Ok here is the long official version

INSTALLATION









Install new pinion seal with Installer 8882 (2) and Handle C-4171 (1).

Apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant, to pinion flange splines.









Install flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.

Lightly tap pinion flange onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.

Install flange washer and new pinion nut.

Hold flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is taken up.









Rotate pinion flange (1) several times to seat bearings.

Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate should be equal to recorded reading plus an additional 0. 40-0. 57 N·m (3-5 in. lbs. ).

If torque to rotating is low, tighten the pinion nut in 6. 8 N·m (5 ft. lbs. ) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.

Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion torque to rotate again.

Install axle shafts and hub bearings.

Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.
 
Bob4x4.



You might want to also give the DIS-ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS so that people know how to properly do the reference marking, etc.



Thanks for posting the assembly.



CD
 
OK here it is



REMOVAL









Mark propeller shaft and pinion flange (1) for installation reference.

Remove propeller shaft.

Remove hub bearings and axle shafts.

Rotate pinion gear three or four times.

Record pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2) for installation reference.









Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and remove pinion flange nut and washer.









Mark a line across the pinion shaft and flange for installation reference.

Remove pinion flange (1) with Pinion Flange Puller 8992 (2).

Remove pinion seal with a seal puller.
 
Wait, this is on the front end. You have to remove the hub bearings and axle shafts? Am I reading this correctly to say that I have to take the unit bearings off?



Jeff



OK here it is



REMOVAL

Mark propeller shaft and pinion flange (1) for installation reference.

Remove propeller shaft.

Remove hub bearings and axle shafts.

Rotate pinion gear three or four times.

Record pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2) for installation reference.



Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and remove pinion flange nut and washer.



Mark a line across the pinion shaft and flange for installation reference.

Remove pinion flange (1) with Pinion Flange Puller 8992 (2).

Remove pinion seal with a seal puller.
 
Wait, this is on the front end. You have to remove the hub bearings and axle shafts? Am I reading this correctly to say that I have to take the unit bearings off?



Jeff



:-laf That is the factory procedure... ... ... ... ... ... ... doesn't really mean anyone follows it. If you follow that procedure you will be safe. If you don't you need to be good.
 
Clear Vent Lines

Bob... .....



I haven't talked with you for awhile. I thought I might bring up a little something I found out on the 05.



The vent lines on the axels need to be checked for blockage often. I had a blockage in the rear vent line which necessitated changing the rear pinion seal with very low milage.



On 4x4 trucks the T case should be cleared regularly aswell.



Mac
 
Bob... .....



I haven't talked with you for awhile. I thought I might bring up a little something I found out on the 05.



The vent lines on the axels need to be checked for blockage often. I had a blockage in the rear vent line which necessitated changing the rear pinion seal with very low milage.



On 4x4 trucks the T case should be cleared regularly aswell.



Mac



Mac, it seems you are suggesting that clogged vents might be leading to failed seals?? Makes sense to me... . Where are the diff and transfer case vent lines (holes) on a 2005 4x4... I have both seals leaking fore and aft. I'm hoping the dealer will replace them under MaxCare, but if the vents are clogged, I want to check and fix them after the repair.



Pix, of course, would be great, if possible. TIA
 
Mac, it seems you are suggesting that clogged vents might be leading to failed seals?? Makes sense to me... . Where are the diff and transfer case vent lines (holes) on a 2005 4x4... I have both seals leaking fore and aft. I'm hoping the dealer will replace them under MaxCare, but if the vents are clogged, I want to check and fix them after the repair.



Pix, of course, would be great, if possible. TIA



Sea Fish



The T case vent if you have the NV5600 is on the passenger side attached to one of the top bellhousing bolts. I have a pic in my old readers rigs pics. I also had to replace the seal on the T case output shaft due to the plastic vent being melted closed from when I installed my Pac Brake.



I relocated the T case vent using fresh hose and vent from the Dodge dealer up and out by the master Cylinder (which is where the front drive shaft vent is located).



The rear is located on top of the axel housing in plane site. I had to cut off the OEM clamps and use standard hose clamps from the hardware store.



I use Comp air to clear them at every oil change.



Mac:cool:
 
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