Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12 valve (1995) fuel shutdown solenoid erratic

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I have a 95 2500 ram and the fuel shutdown solenoid sometimes will not operate to start the engine. Should I replace the solenoid assembly or look for other things electrical. Plug and wiring all OK.
 
He's in the 12 valve forum. You need to look at the small blue wire at the positive terminal drivers side battery. Take it "completely" off and make sure it is not broken at the crimp and clean real good. Another thing to check is the boot on the solenoid. It can become deteriorated and bind the plunger. It can be replaced separately. Parts available from Geno's.
Good luck.
 
The most likely is the fuel solenoid relay. It is the big one on the firewall between the master cylinder and the engine. The blue wire may be loose or corroded. If it is all you have to do is clean the connection.
 
Also check the fuel solenoid, remove it, clean it and regrease then replace the boot. The boot deteriorates and then gunk gets up inside.
 
After experiencing the same erratic operation, I worked through the entire system... ... ... . only to find a loose connection at the battery!!!:rolleyes:



The previous advice is quite good. If you have a meter, make sure you have 12 volts at terminal 30 on your fuel relay, the one on the firewall. BTW, it is slid up on a rail, so other than a good tug, you don't need tools to take this apart, and when you get the relay off, turn it upside down, it will clearly show you which one is terminal 30. That connection comes directly from your battery, is not supposed to ever be dead.



Keeps ya from working for 2 hours to find out that when you replaced the battery... ... ya didn't tighten it enough!!



Good luck and let us know.
 
Thanks guys.

I just got a new relay from Geno's and I'll stick it in today. Hope this is the cure. If not, I'll take the solenoid off and clean it up. If necessary, I'll replace the solenoid.



Jack Mears

Concrete, Wa.
 
Thanks guys.

I just got a new relay from Geno's and I'll stick it in today. Hope this is the cure. If not, I'll take the solenoid off and clean it up. If necessary, I'll replace the solenoid.



Jack Mears

Concrete, Wa.



Jack;

have you looked into doing a manual cable? is a bit cheaper that a new solenoid, if you go that route. We think cleaning it up and tight connections will solve your problem. Hows the boot?
 
Check out page 5. Geno's has a way to test test the system. http://www.genosgarage.com/WWWMT.pdf



There is a problem with this test procedure. Bad contacts in the relay can allow enough current to flow to light a test light or show 12v on a volt meter but not enough current to pull up the solenoid. Seen this a lot!!! Easiest and fastest way to check is to try a known good relay, or do a volt drop test on the circuit.
 
Swap it with the fuel heater relay which is right next to it. That will work for a test. The fuel heater relay is 30 amps which is not enough for regular use.
 
My fuel relay was broken off the firewall when i bought the truck. The relay just layed in the top of the motor but when i would wash engine area i would start having solenoid problems. i discovered that the carwash soap was getting in the relay and corroding the contacts, i took the relay apart and cleaned the contacts with sandpaper and contact cleaner and hung it with a tie wrap so the contacts didnt get wet anymore has worked fine ever since!!
 
Looks like the fuel shutdown relay was the culprit. She starts right up now after replacing the relay.



Thanks a lot guys for all the replys. I like that manual cable fix although that could be a pain remembering the sequence for shutting down. (WIFE).
 
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