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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Intake base plate DIY

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I saw II makes a Arctic cool intake plate I guess its a machined aluminum replacement with a slick bottom...


CUMMINS RACE ENGINES

Is there any benefit to replacing the factory rubber hose from filter/airbox to turbo. I have the AFE 1 and they offer a "torque tube" replacement for the factory hose. Is there any benefit? anyone tryed this?
 
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I saw II makes a Arctic cool intake plate I guess its a machined aluminum replacement with a slick bottom...
CUMMINS RACE ENGINES

You can go that route for the "bling" only, OR you can put one of these on and actually improve balance and flow to ALL 6 cylinders = faster spool and lower EGTs!

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PM for details!;)
 
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That's beautiful... I bet it works great, too, for dropping temps and better power. Any numbers for a before and after dyno comparison??

ALSO, I am very curious why you feel that this type of mod will do less on a 3rd gen CR??

I thought that more airflow is always better for lower EGTs and faster spool up.
 
That's beautiful... I bet it works great, too, for dropping temps and better power. Any numbers for a before and after dyno comparison??



ALSO, I am very curious why you feel that this type of mod will do less on a 3rd gen CR??



I thought that more airflow is always better for lower EGTs and faster spool up.



2nd gen has a huge boss cast into the head at the base right under the intake horn. This is designed to allow full flow around that boss and to maximize flow to all cylinders. It will work well for a CR, but I felt the horn was more of a restriction if only 1 thing was to be changed. ;)
 
Nice work !!!

Any chance you might offer a "conversion piece" w/grid heater eliminator for those of us who can mill & TIG our original plate to except an add on ?



Thanks--Proflow
 
Thanks! but I doubt the work involved would justify the expense when you consider the cost of the TUNNEL RAM completed Vs doing it yourself. I have heard of issues with the stock cast plate cracking under high boost pressures. This is not a modded stock plate but a whole new fully machined chunk of billet a w/multi angled top to both improve smoothness of flow and ensure CAC tube alignment and tested to 200psi!
Cummins has grid deletes for about $40.
 
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2nd gen has a huge boss cast into the head at the base right under the intake horn. This is designed to allow full flow around that boss and to maximize flow to all cylinders. It will work well for a CR, but I felt the horn was more of a restriction if only 1 thing was to be changed. ;)

So are you saying that this intake manifold plate is ALSO a direct bolt on for a 3rd gen, just might not give as many benefits... or will a 3rd gen need a newly designed plate?? TIA
 
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So are you saying that this intake manifold plate is ALSO a direct bolt on for a 3rd gen, just might not give as many benefits... or will a 3rd gen need a newly designed plate?? TIA

I made a plate to fit 3rd gen as well but the 3rd gen version is a bit different and has more holes for the rail/sensor. ;)
 
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Thanks! but I doubt the work involved would justify the expense when you consider the cost of the TUNNEL RAM completed Vs doing it yourself. I have heard of issues with the stock cast plate cracking under high boost pressures. This is not a modded stock plate but a whole new fully machined chunk of billet a w/multi angled top to both improve smoothness of flow and ensure CAC tube alignment and tested to 200psi!

Cummins has grid deletes for about $40.



I didn't even think of the fact the stocker was cast. Good point ! For sure one piece billet would be superior, I was just thinking of options thats all.



Congrats on using your machine skills for making more power ! I love it :-laf ---Proflow
 
OK here are some installed pics.
first is the stock plate. you can see how narrow the passage to the rear cylinders is. :eek:

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this is the TUNNEL RAM mounted. Notice the same boss down in the bottom of the huge gaping hole? Much less restrictive!:)

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last is a pic with Haisley . 093 injector lines, still fits like a glove! :D

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I am curious as to whether this would help with the stuttering issue I have when the ambient air temp is 50 - 55 degrees with moderate to high boost. My theory is the boost sensor is at the back of the head near #5 and #6 intake runners and me thinks the opening and closing of those four intake valves creates "waves" that cause the sensor to change rapidly and thereby cause the stutter. I believe another part of the stutter is the changes made to the fueling software during the specific temps mentioned above. This stutter is mainly noticeable when pulling a load.

Dad-gum-it! You are just gonna make me have to buy one of these and test my theory!@%#^#$

Godspeed,
Trent
 
Trent- there is a thread here somewhere about moving the IAT to the air horn and an extension harness for it, I dont remember why they did it, but you may be on to something.
 
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