Here I am

Long Crank Times & Sometimes No Starts

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

06 Turbo Crack (whistle) found w/PacBrake

Excessive vibration

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm trying to figure out if it is an injector or maybe a leak in one of the lines. If I need it to start all I have to do is crack one of the lines on the rail and the beast fires up. I am going to pull the rail off one more time, re-torque the tubes, and banjo nuts. I did speak with a Cummins tech and he said if the check valve on the rail was bad that I could not touch the fuel line it would be that hot. I drove the truck around for an hour and it was cool to the touch. I will follow up tonight. Thanks for the advise.
 
Last edited:
It will start on either, but i really perfer not to. Once it is running it runs fine, if it sits more than an hour it will not start. I was told if the over pressure valve was bad it would cause the fuel line(near the valve) to become very hot (to the point it will burn your hand). I can touch the line after a hour of driving. My rail pressure is up to 1900 when trying to start and over 6k at idle. I am puzzled as well. I am in the process of re torquing the tubes and lines. Looks like i had some fuel residue (light film) around 3 and 4 lines.
 
It will start on either, but i really perfer not to. Once it is running it runs fine, if it sits more than an hour it will not start. I was told if the over pressure valve was bad it would cause the fuel line(near the valve) to become very hot (to the point it will burn your hand). I can touch the line after a hour of driving. My rail pressure is up to 1900 when trying to start and over 6k at idle. I am puzzled as well. I am in the process of re torquing the tubes and lines. Looks like i had some fuel residue (light film) around 3 and 4 lines.



That tech does NOT know CR, the LV will not get hot at ALL, In fact we mod them to whatever the customer request, 27k,28k ETC,there are two types Bleed off and pop off. I cannot make them fast enough,right Now I'm AT LEAST 30 Days behind. Your Problem is Not LV related. generally LV issue blossom to a no start regardless of either. The sensor left here yesterday.
 
I'm thinking a stick of dynomite would fix all the problems:mad:. We had snow overnight and I decided not to plug the block heater in (have been using the heater since my problems started). I got into my truck turned on the ignition and did not wait for the grid heater light to go out and it started up:confused:. Now I must go find a book of matches.
 
I'm thinking a stick of dynomite would fix all the problems:mad:. We had snow overnight and I decided not to plug the block heater in (have been using the heater since my problems started). I got into my truck turned on the ignition and did not wait for the grid heater light to go out and it started up:confused:. Now I must go find a book of matches.



I had a bad injector(s). Mine wouldn't start when the truck was warm. When it cooled off, the injectors contracted enough that it would build the pressure requried to start.



Take your truck out for a long drive, get it up to operating temp. Go home and shut it off and wait about 10 minutes for it to heat soak. Then try starting it.
 
I DON’T UNDERSTAND. After I drive the truck (up to operating temp 200+ degrees) and shut the truck off and try to start it the truck just cranks and will not start- THEN I crack a fuel line enough to break the seat and then tighten it back up the truck will start up immediately. What am I missing here?:confused:
 
I DON’T UNDERSTAND. After I drive the truck (up to operating temp 200+ degrees) and shut the truck off and try to start it the truck just cranks and will not start- THEN I crack a fuel line enough to break the seat and then tighten it back up the truck will start up immediately. What am I missing here?:confused:





See my last post. While I never cracked a line, I did try replacing the fuel filter once when it wouldn't start. Started right up.
 
Here is a picture of the Sensor you sent and my sensor. The sensor on the left came out of my truck and looks like it’s blued from excessive heat or do some of the sensors have this blued effect? (The blue is all the way up the threads. )

Did you try the sensor you received?
 
I just went through this on my 03 with the dealer. Forunately it was under the extended warranty. 1st they updated the transfer pump & retorqued the tubes. 2nd day I had it, it wouldn't start again. They replaced all 6 injectors @ 65000 miles!!! I change the fuel filter every 10K. I hope injectors at 65k is not the norm. Now it has a slight skip upon cold start and the exhaust smells too rich. I'm wondering what the odds are that one or two injectors still aren't quite right? Any thoughts?
 
I am in the process of installing a new CP3, I have removed the nut on the pump gear but my puller is too big and now i need to remove the fan, HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE FAN WITHOUT CURSING"
 
Thanks, I wasn't thinking I will go out now and bust a knuckle.
12:30 i have the new pump on-warming up and will finish soon.

Almost 3am and its running, too early to be 100% sure that the hard start is fixed but took it for a 25 mile run got it up to operating temp and shut it down and it started. A noticeable difference in performance. Will add to this tomorrow after I get the state inspection done.
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
 
Last edited:
I am happy as a Minnesota Pig in Mud,SWithrow Please return the core ASAP to US. Also please do NOT attach the FCA to the Pump. Now you are ready for the wild rail to match that Pump, Your Injectors will be Happy for their entire life, not to mention your wallet will recover. Remember that Pump was modded by us (T&C) please allow Me to service it. The manifold is modded entirely different then any pump on the Market. Now take a break and relax... ..... Heeeeeeeeee
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top