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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) anti gel products used?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12 valve using anti freeze

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What is anyone using for an anti gel? I've used Power Service products because they are readily available. But below zero, my fuel pressure will slowly drop to near 0 psi until 20 minutes or so of idling (it never stalls). I assume the filter heater is getting things moving again. After that, its fine and maintains a normal psi. The fuel I'm putting in is supposedly good to -30F and have tried different stations with same results. I can see it starts to thicken in my tractor too as it has a clear fuel bowl.
 
I've had Power Service (white bottle), Stanadyne Performance formula, and one other (can't remember name right now) gel on me. Problem with additives is you don't know how they will react with the additives already in the fuel. I was travelling all over the country at the time, and tried to buy fuel from mostly northern truck stops. I eventually added an inline fuel heater on my 03 that worked off of engine coolant. I would just manually valve the heater in when it got really cold.



I would probably get a bottle of Power Service 911 to keep in the truck in case the gelling got too bad. I don't think it is really recommended for non-emergency use though.



I would probably give Howes a try. Have heard good things about it, but have never tried it myself.
 
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For me there is only one. Stanadyne Performance formula. I've said this before... but I took diesel and put it in a glass jar and set it outside overnight in -13F actual temps. The next morning it appeared bright yellow and was slushy like one of those icee drinks you get at a mini mart. A tiny dab of PF and a swirl around instantly put it back in liquid form with no "gel" appearance. Thats what keep if from blocking filters and lines.



Non scientific proof... but good enough for me to understand whats inside my tank when its below 0.
 
We use Power Service Supplement (White bottle) Always double the dose when below 10 deg. never a problem.

Not real familiar with Gray bottle,but if I remember correctly, think that's a cetane improver and cleaner.

Not really much help for jelling.

Also keep a bottle of 911(red bottle) handy in case of jelling, but also no good in preventing it.

Have read good things about Howe's and stanadyne,but never tried them.

TGP
 
I've used the 911 and it immediately clears up the filter and restores pressure but even after dumping the remainder in the tank after the truck sits, it does the same thing again. It seems to be a real fine line at anything below 0 F. Never had a problem before the USLD stuff came along.



Not sure where to pick up those other products. I've checked several of the truck stops but they only carry the Power Service products. I was going to attach a stick on heater on the outside of the filter housing to help the cold starts but that won't do any good when I can't plug it in at work. I'm guessing the inline fuel heater is expensive and it would take a while for that to warm up too.
 
I have used the Howes for years, works well. We got down to -20 last couple of nights and no problems. I keep the 911 on hand just in case. Gelled up my tractor dozing snow so spun off the filters poured some 911 in and the rest in the tank and was able to finish the job. Stay warm, Jeff
 
I've used the 911 and it immediately clears up the filter and restores pressure but even after dumping the remainder in the tank after the truck sits, it does the same thing again. It seems to be a real fine line at anything below 0 F. Never had a problem before the USLD stuff came along.



Not sure where to pick up those other products. I've checked several of the truck stops but they only carry the Power Service products. I was going to attach a stick on heater on the outside of the filter housing to help the cold starts but that won't do any good when I can't plug it in at work. I'm guessing the inline fuel heater is expensive and it would take a while for that to warm up too.



That's exactly my point. 911 is only used to restore the jelled fuel.

It's printed right on the bottle will not prevent jelling.

Power Service Fuel supplement (white bottle) is for anti-jelling and other improvers.

It even works better than Power Service Arctic-Express Blue bottle, which has other advantages.

TGP
 
I'm not in a cold climate. I don't have to worry about anything other than poor quality fuel. I keep a spare filter and PS 911 under the back seat just in case.

That said, have you tested the fuel heater to verify that it's actually working? Here is an excert from my '01 service manual:

(I tried to copy the pictures, but was not successful)



FUEL HEATER

DESCRIPTION

The fuel heater assembly is located on the side of

the fuel filter housing (Fig. 9).

The heater/element assembly is equipped with a

temperature sensor (thermostat) that senses fuel

temperature. This sensor is attached to the fuel heater/

element assembly.

OPERATION

The fuel heater is used to prevent diesel fuel from

waxing during cold weather operation.

When the temperature is below 45 68 degrees F,

the temperature sensor allows current to flow to the

heater element warming the fuel. When the temperature

is above 75 68 degrees F, the sensor stops current

flow to the heater element.

Battery voltage to operate the fuel heater element

is supplied from the ignition switch and through the

fuel heater relay. Also refer to Fuel Heater Relay.

The fuel heater element and fuel heater relay

are not computer controlled.

The heater element operates on 12 volts, 300 watts

at 0 degrees F.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL HEATER

The fuel heater is used to prevent diesel fuel from

waxing during cold weather operation.

NOTE: The fuel heater element, fuel heater relay

and fuel heater temperature sensor are not controlled

by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

A malfunctioning fuel heater can cause a wax

build-up in the fuel filter/water separator. Wax

build-up in the filter/separator can cause engine

starting problems and prevent the engine from revving

up. It can also cause blue or white fog-like

exhaust. If the heater is not operating in cold temperatures,

the engine may not operate due to fuel

waxing.

The fuel heater assembly is located on the side of

the fuel filter housing (Fig. 10).

The heater assembly is equipped with a built-in

fuel temperature sensor (thermostat) that senses fuel

temperature. When fuel temperature drops below 45

degrees 6 8 degrees F, the sensor allows current to

flow to the built-in heater element to warm the fuel.

When fuel temperature rises above 75 degrees 6 8

degrees F, the sensor stops current flow to the heater

element (circuit is open).

Voltage to operate the fuel heater element is supplied

from the ignition switch, through the fuel

heater relay (also refer to Fuel Heater Relay), to the

fuel temperature sensor and on to the fuel heater element.

The heater element operates on 12 volts, 300 watts

at 0 degrees F. As temperature increases, power

requirements decrease.

A minimum of 7 volts is required to operate the

fuel heater. The resistance value of the heater element

is less than 1 ohm (cold) and up to 1000 ohms

warm.

TESTING

(1) Disconnect electrical connector at sensor (Fig.

10).

Turn key to ON position. 12 volts should be

present at red wire. If not, check fuel heater relay

and related wiring. Refer to Relay Test—Fuel Heater.

If OK, proceed.

Turn key OFF. Check black wire in connector for

ground continuity with an ohmmeter. If continuity is

not present, correct open ground circuit. This test can

also be performed with a voltmeter by backprobing

black wire with it connected to sensor. Reconnect

electrical connector and turn key ON. Voltage drop

should not exceed 2 volts (2 volts lower than checked

at 12V+ connector). If voltage is lower, check for dirty

or corroded ground connection and repair. If OK, proceed.

(2) With electrical connector disconnected at sensor

and key OFF, check electrical/mechanical operation

of fuel temperature sensor. Proceed to next step:

(3) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity across

two terminals in electrical connector at side of sensor.

Sensor circuit should be open if fuel temperature

has risen above 75 degrees 6 8 degrees F. Sensor circuit

should be closed if fuel temperature has dropped

below 45 degrees 6 8 degrees F. If not, replace fuel

heater assembly. This same test can also be performed

using a voltmeter, with key ON, and by backprobing

connector.
 
Thanks BDaugherty. I'm away from home for a few days but will give the fuel heater/relay test a try. I'm thinking maybe the USLD was a problem but maybe the fuel heater is the culprit. Assumed it was working since the psi eventually returns. If I remember right there are two connectors on the front of the fuel filter assembly. Can you tell from the picture which connector it is?
 
I use Howe's and I've had no trouble with it so far. I also fill up with #1 when I know we're in for a real cold snap. Just peace of mind when the forecast is -30 for a week and I'd rather not be playing around under the hood.
 
ULSD isn't going to cause cold weather problems anymore than LSD. Or even high sulfur diesel.



And a working fuel filter heater isn't going to do anything for fuel waxed up in the tank pickup screen.
 
ULSD isn't going to cause cold weather problems anymore than LSD. Or even high sulfur diesel.



And a working fuel filter heater isn't going to do anything for fuel waxed up in the tank pickup screen.



From: ULSD Cold Weather Information



The Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD (S-15)) that we started to receive in mid 2006 has shown some dramatically different cold weather characteristics from the earlier High Sulfur (HSD (S-5000)) and Low Sulfur Fuels (LSD (S-500)).

These new characteristics including higher temperature gelling, wax dropout, icing, and difficulty in treating have in the first year and will continue into the foreseeable future to provide some significant challenges to distributors and end users during cold weather.

Due to these new characteristics users in areas of the US where they have not seen cold weather problems in the past, are now and will continue to see serious issues with gelling, wax dropout, and icing.







I agree about the plugged pickup screen and/or fuel lines. However, it is my opinion that the filter element will usually plug first. The impression I got was that fuel was flowing, but it was severely restricted until the fuel warmed up some. That's what got me thinking fuel heater.



Another interesting thing that the above website mentioned:



many of the diesel fuel anti-gel additive products that have been on the market for last 5 to 30 years have little or no effect on ULSD. The change in fuel chemistry brought about by changes in the Catalytic Cracking processes and the addition of Hydrodesulfurization have rendered many of the most popular products nearly useless in ULSD.

 
I tested the heater and relay per the instructions and everything seems to be in working order. Picked up a bottle of Howes so will give that a try with the next cold spell. Thanks for the ideas.
 
Old School Trick

A disposable diaper wrapped around fuel filters works wonders when temps drop below zero. Having spent a winter driving the Northwest Territories I can tell you None of the additives alone will prevent gelling at the reccomended levels. We had the best luck out of a 50/50 mix of #1 and #2 along with a double dose of Howes and wrapping the filters.
 
I put an old 200W magnetic plug-in heater that the magnets fell out of strapped to the filter housing. Next time its cold and I'm plugging in, I'll plug that in for an hour or so too. Should get things moving quicker that letting the fuel heater do all the work. I see some relatively inexpensive 12V fuel heaters on ebay too that I'll look into if this doesn't help out. Just hate to put too many restrictions and connections into the fuel line.
 
Standyne performance formula at half bottle per fill up since day one on my 2001. 5. The last 4. 5 years have been with out a fuel heater running my FASS pump straight to the VP.



I have never had a weather related fuel problem and have been down to -22 unplugged (actually only time I have every used the block heater was once to see if it worked, LOL).



I thought about switching last year and did some research but came to the realization that if the Stanadyne has worked all this time there was no need for me to switch.



Hope this helps



J-
 
Like dieselshu I also use and have used amalgamated for years. No problems so far down to -29 deg F. I use their TDR-W blend year round.
 
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