Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 HO 6-speed — identifying OEM ECM part number

[JLandry]

Wow... . and the core price is breathtaking, too.

To my email inquiry about the availability of new ECM's, Mopar Parts America responded:

"It has been updated to part number R5083997AA and unfortunately it is on backorder with no current promise time. "

​

R5083997AA is the refurbished unit. That along with what Cummins parts already said effectively confirms your suspicion that new ECM's are no longer available.



I find it fascinating that you can buy a brand new laptop nowadays for far less money... and with far more computing power... than you can have your ECM repaired!



John L.

 

[CDrake]

Cummins ECU

I have had good luck with these guys, I purchased an ABS module for my '99 Ram 3500 and a ECM for a '92 Jeep. Both worked well and a fair price.



ATE:High Quality Rebuilds at Exceptional Pricing



You could also try



Auto Computer Exchange - Auto Computer Superstore - Cheaper than dealers and mechanics.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Current status

I received the unit back from the repair company.

I had found them first by find this group:

Ford GM ECU ECM PCM TCU Lexus Toyota Honda Acura repair used Mitsubishi

which is really this group

Auto and Heavy Duty Computer supply - ecm ecu tcu repair engine transmission control modules ford pcm 3000gt eclipse stealth mitsubishi honda acura lexus chrysler sidekick tracker cummins

which sends their stuff to this group

Auto Computer Exchange - Auto Computer Superstore - Cheaper than dealers and mechanics.

... to repair. Auto Computer Exchange, of Ft. Lauderdale [Davie?] Florida.

I received the unit back with two screws missing from the cover, silicone caulk smeared all around the edge of the cover, with the exception of where the cover was bent up from being pried. No sealer there. You can see inside.

It has paper stickers sealing it shut, indicating that if damaged the warranty is void.

After six phone calls I get someone who faxes me a UPS shipping label. He then phones me back asking if I will put it on the truck to see if it work. I was astounded by that request.

"... that way we know if something is wrong with it," he says.

I have discussed this already with VISA, as I have little confidence this will turn out well. Auto Computer Exchange has bad reports here and elsewhere.

See Auto Computer Exchange Inc User Reviews - Davie, FL 33314 - Citysearch fora host of complaints.

Also, the local better business bureau gives them an F rating.

BBB Review of Auto Computer Exchange, Inc. - Automobile Parts and Supplies Wholesale - Davie, FL

I wonder who reconditions them for Chrysler, since new ones are no longer available.

My next concern is that if I am forced to buy one from the dealer, they won't accept my unit with bent cover as a core, so I will be out that money. I find it remarkable that such companies can continue to do business.

 

[JLandry]

I received the unit back from the repair company.

Gordon,



Did you actually get the same unit back that you shipped out (assuming you can tell)?

I received the unit back with two screws missing from the cover, silicone caulk smeared all around the edge of the cover, with the exception of where the cover was bent up from being pried. No sealer there. You can see inside.

Sheez!



What the heck ever happened to quality and pride in one's workmanship? Wait... don't answer that because I already know...

... which sends their stuff to this group...

So apparently this statement on the web site for ECM-to-Go isn't quite true:

Please be aware when puchasing that we also specialize in repair service of electronic controllers. We have been servicing Dealerships, Repair Shops, Recyclers & Do-It-Yourselfers since 1997. This is called our ECM/ECU REPAIR SERVICE. ​

John L.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon,

Did you actually get the same unit back that you shipped out (assuming you can tell)?

Sheez!

What the heck ever happened to quality and pride in one's workmanship? Wait... don't answer that because I already know...

So apparently this statement on the web site for ECM-to-Go isn't quite true:

Please be aware when puchasing that we also specialize in repair service of electronic controllers. We have been servicing Dealerships, Repair Shops, Recyclers & Do-It-Yourselfers since 1997. This is called our ECM/ECU REPAIR SERVICE. ​

John L.

Yes, I got the same unit back.

The head guy at the Texas group phoned, seems pretty earnest about the problems, does not question my views on the matter, and is going to monitor the situation as it unfolds.

I won't know more for at least two days.

I admit to being pretty skeptical about this being resolved satisfactorily, but this fellow has been so nice, so cordial, so earnest, that I want to give him the chance to resolve the issues.

 

[Bob Wagner]

i have ecms if you need one

 

[Bob Wagner]

Customs got curious once and wanted to see what was inside. no note of nothing. This was with the other 20



#ad

 

[Gordon Maney]

I received the ECM yesterday and will be putting it on the truck tomorrow. I will post the results.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Yesterday I did not have as much time as I had hoped for, but did get the ECM on the truck. I wanted, as an initial test, to try bumping the starter to see if it triggered the lift pump.

To be fair, I did not have the filter assembly on, so the two leads going to that were not connected.

It did not trigger the lift pump. Tonight I will get the filter on and try it again. I admit to not being optimistic, given the chain of events surrounding the ECM.

I guess the next thing I will do, if this does not work, is try removing the instrument cluster to see if verifying the proper seating of its connector makes a difference, given the possible effect on the bus.

After that, as much as I hate the idea, I guess I will be taking it to the dealer and paying them to diagnose.

 

[JLandry]

It did not trigger the lift pump.

Gordon,



Sorry to hear that... what a disappointment.



Once you get the filter housing buttoned up and try to activate the lift pump circuit again, be sure and check the circuit using either a voltmeter or a test light. Specifically, verify you don't have a lift pump problem by checking if there's any voltage present at the lift pump wiring harness connector.



Good luck,



John L.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Good news. [... . I never thought I would type those words. ]

I decided to continue putting the truck together on the outside chance that having some leads disconnected may have interfered with proper operation of the lift pump control voltage.

As I was looking at putting the air filter box back in place I noticed I had one of the connectors not connected to the PCM. The one I was using to make circuit tests to determine if circuits were OK between the PCM and the ECM.

As dull as I am, I realized — holy cow — that would prevent it from working.

I also had a gnawing fear that, after the whole ECM thing, the ECM may be bad and I would still not get the Raptor to hum.

The filter housing top was on and turned on by hand so I could remove it again. I connected the batteries and turned the key on. I heard a sound. I bumped the starter and the lift pump ran. I then heard fuel running onto the floor because it had filled the filter housing and was running out.

I turned the key off and the lift pump continued to run. I did not know it would do that. Is that normal? I had thought turning the key off would power down the pump.

Now I need to bleed some injector lines and see if it will start. I also have to get the air box snorkel back into position. That seems easy, in comparison to all that has occurred.

Exciting... .

 

[JLandry]

I turned the key off and the lift pump continued to run. I did not know it would do that. Is that normal? I had thought turning the key off would power down the pump.

That's perfectly normal.

Now I need to bleed some injector lines and see if it will start. I also have to get the air box snorkel back into position. That seems easy, in comparison to all that has occurred.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed!



John L.

 

[Gordon Maney]

I am bleeding the lines and it is trying, but not getting there.

I checked for codes and got:

PCU
1693

ECU
0230
0382
0380
1689
0118
0113
0122

I am going to see what those are now. I suspect some are from trying it with leads disconnected, but I wonder if they can all be from that.

More later.

John????

 

[JLandry]

I am bleeding the lines and it is trying, but not getting there.

Gordon,



Did you loosen 3 or more of the injector lines while cranking? If you have a bunch of air in them, it'll take a bit to get going. Also, if your batteries are worn down, it may help to recharge them first.



You did put all the relays and fuses back in the PDC... right?

I checked for codes and got:

It's normal to have a bunch of trouble codes when the ECU is reflashed or you turn on the ignition with the ECU and/or PCM disconnected. For now just clear the trouble codes, try to get the engine running, and then later you can see of any pop back up.



Sounds like you're almost there!



John L.

 

[Gordon Maney]

PCU

P1693 Generic fault indicating a fault in the bus or PCM/ECM interface

Just guessing; I suspect that stems from bumping the starter with a PCM connector not connected.




ECU

P0230 Transfer pump circuit out of range

Uncertain as to possible cause.





P0382 Intake Air Heater #2 Control circuit
P0380 Intake Air Heater #1 Control circuit

I had the grid heater leads disconnected when I tried bumping the starter when the PCM was not fully connected.




Uncertain as to possible cause for these... .

P1689 No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor High
P0113 Intake Air / Charge Temperature Sensor High
P0122 Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) LowAPPS Voltage Input Too Low



I am charging the batteries. I am now wondering if some of this stems from this repaired ECM.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon,

Did you loosen 3 or more of the injector lines while cranking? If you have a bunch of air in them, it'll take a bit to get going. Also, if your batteries are worn down, it may help to recharge them first.

You did put all the relays and fuses back in the PDC... right?

It's normal to have a bunch of trouble codes when the ECU is reflashed or you turn on the ignition with the ECU and/or PCM disconnected. For now just clear the trouble codes, try to get the engine running, and then later you can see of any pop back up.

Sounds like you're almost there!

John L.

I believe I don't have any fuses or relays out, but will check that.

I have loosened four of the lines; 1, 3, 4, and 5. It tries pretty hard, but can't keep itself going.

The battery charger is on as I type this. I am being careful, not wanting to overheat my starter. I have read [maybe on the Bluechip site] about cranking 30 seconds at a time. That seems too long to me. That is a long time. Even 15 seconds is a long time.


The dumb question of the day..... it won't actually start with injector fittings loose, will it? I have thought you had to have them tight to get it to start. I cranked it with 1, 3, and 4 loose. I have no helper just now, so I cranked a bit, several times, then got out and looked. I tightened number 4, and then did it again.

After completing those, trying to improve, I did number 5. I am thinking I have started it in the past after cracking just three injector lines. I should not have to literally do all of them, should I?

I get fuel out, but am uncertain how much is normal. Should it be a real gusher, or just make a puddle?

 

[JLandry]

I believe I don't have any fuses or relays out, but will check that.

Gordon,



I only mentioned it because obviously you want to make sure the VP44 is actually getting power. Normally this wouldn't be an issue, but I know you did a lot of wire harness testing earlier and I just wanted to make sure you didn't pull out the fuel injection pump relay or some fuses at some point and maybe not get them all back in.

I have read [maybe on the Bluechip site] about cranking 30 seconds at a time. That seems too long to me. That is a long time. Even 15 seconds is a long time.

The owners manual says the limit is 15 seconds of cranking followed by at least 2 minutes to cool, BUT the bleeding procedure in the service manual says 30 seconds of cranking followed by 2 minutes of cooling.

The dumb question of the day..... it won't actually start with injector fittings loose, will it?

It depends on several factors, but yes it MAY start with loose injector lines if nothing else is wrong (e. g. : the transfer tubes are tight against the injectors, no air is trapped in remaining lines, and you don't have the fittings too loose).



Here is the bleeding procedure from the service manual. Take note that you should first bleed all air from the low-pressure side of the fuel system up VP44 inlet.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - AIR BLEED



A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the

fuel system when fuel system components on the

supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or

replaced. Primary air bleeding is accomplished using

the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. If the vehicle

has been allowed to run completely out of fuel, the

fuel injectors must also be bled as the fuel injection

pump is not self-bleeding (priming).



Servicing or replacing components on the fuel

return side will not require air bleeding.



WARNING: DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL

SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE.



(1) Loosen, but do not remove, banjo bolt (test port

fitting) holding low-pressure fuel supply line to side

of fuel injection pump. Place a shop towel

around banjo fitting to catch excess fuel.

The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When

the key is first turned on (without cranking engine),

the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and

then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to

25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and

then disengaged without allowing the engine to start.

The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and

the engine stops running.



(2) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly

release key to ON position before engine starts. This

will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25

seconds.



(3) If fuel is not present at fuel supply line after

25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until

fuel is exiting at fuel supply line.



(4) Tighten banjo bolt at fuel supply line to 24 N·m

(18 ft. lbs. ) torque. Primary air bleeding is now completed.



(5) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not

start, proceed to following steps. If engine does

start, it may run erratically and be very noisy

for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.



(6) Continue to next step if:

• The vehicle fuel tank has been allowed to run empty
  
• The fuel injection pump has been replaced
  
• High-pressure fuel lines have been replaced
  
• Vehicle has not been operated after an extended period
  

CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for more

than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes

between cranking intervals.



(7) Perform previous air bleeding procedure steps

using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at

fuel supply line before proceeding.



(8) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to

allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out

the drain manifold.



WARNING: THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES

EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL

INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE

LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF

PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND

CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES

AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING

AND AVOID CONTACT WITH FUEL SPRAY WHEN

BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES.

WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING

STARTER MOTOR.



Engine may start, may run erratically and be

very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal

condition.



(9) Thoroughly clean area around injector fittings

where they join injector connector tubes.



(10) Bleed air by loosening high-pressure fuel line

fittings at cylinders number 3, 4 and 5.



(11) Continue bleeding injectors until engine runs

smoothly. It may take a few minutes for engine to

run smooth.



(12) Tighten fuel line(s) at injector(s) to 38 N·m

(28 ft. lbs. ) torque.​

I get fuel out, but am uncertain how much is normal. Should it be a real gusher, or just make a puddle?

It won't be a gusher, but it should squirt.



Question:



You are getting good fuel pressure from the lift pump when you bump the starter... right? Didn't you borrow or buy a fuel pressure test gauge at some point?



John L.

 

[JLandry]

Gordon,



One other thought if you still can't start the engine...



Back when this whole problem started for you, I believe you said you suspected the lift-pump hadn't been working for some time. The problem was traced to a failed ECM which you've had repaired.



I wonder if possibly the VP44 could have been damaged by the lack of fuel supply, and now this might be reason the engine won't start despite having a repaired ECM?



If you don't have any luck starting the engine in a reasonable amount of time, you might want to consider hot-wiring the VP44 to help positively identify whether or not it's working properly. If you decide to do that, read THIS POST.



Regards,



John L.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon,

I only mentioned it because obviously you want to make sure the VP44 is actually getting power. Normally this wouldn't be an issue, but I know you did a lot of wire harness testing earlier and I just wanted to make sure you didn't pull out the fuel injection pump relay or some fuses at some point and maybe not get them all back in.

The owners manual says the limit is 15 seconds of cranking followed by at least 2 minutes to cool, BUT the bleeding procedure in the service manual says 30 seconds of cranking followed by 2 minutes of cooling.

It depends on several factors, but yes it MAY start with loose injector lines if nothing else is wrong (e. g. : the transfer tubes are tight against the injectors, no air is trapped in remaining lines, and you don't have the fittings too loose).

Here is the bleeding procedure from the service manual. Take note that you should first bleed all air from the low-pressure side of the fuel system up VP44 inlet.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - AIR BLEED

A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the
fuel system when fuel system components on the
supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or
replaced. Primary air bleeding is accomplished using
the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. If the vehicle
has been allowed to run completely out of fuel, the
fuel injectors must also be bled as the fuel injection
pump is not self-bleeding (priming).

Servicing or replacing components on the fuel
return side will not require air bleeding.

WARNING: DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL
SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE.

(1) Loosen, but do not remove, banjo bolt (test port
fitting) holding low-pressure fuel supply line to side
of fuel injection pump. Place a shop towel
around banjo fitting to catch excess fuel.
The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When
the key is first turned on (without cranking engine),
the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and
then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to
25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and
then disengaged without allowing the engine to start.
The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and
the engine stops running.

(2) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly
release key to ON position before engine starts. This
will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25
seconds.

(3) If fuel is not present at fuel supply line after
25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until
fuel is exiting at fuel supply line.

(4) Tighten banjo bolt at fuel supply line to 24 N·m
(18 ft. lbs. ) torque. Primary air bleeding is now completed.

(5) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not
start, proceed to following steps. If engine does
start, it may run erratically and be very noisy
for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.

(6) Continue to next step if:

• The vehicle fuel tank has been allowed to run empty
• The fuel injection pump has been replaced
• High-pressure fuel lines have been replaced
• Vehicle has not been operated after an extended period

CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for more
than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes
between cranking intervals.

(7) Perform previous air bleeding procedure steps
using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at
fuel supply line before proceeding.

(8) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to
allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out
the drain manifold.

WARNING: THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES
EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL
INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE
LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF
PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND
CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES
AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
AND AVOID CONTACT WITH FUEL SPRAY WHEN
BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES.
WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING
STARTER MOTOR.

Engine may start, may run erratically and be
very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal
condition.

(9) Thoroughly clean area around injector fittings
where they join injector connector tubes.

(10) Bleed air by loosening high-pressure fuel line
fittings at cylinders number 3, 4 and 5.

(11) Continue bleeding injectors until engine runs
smoothly. It may take a few minutes for engine to
run smooth.

(12) Tighten fuel line(s) at injector(s) to 38 N·m
(28 ft. lbs. ) torque.​

It won't be a gusher, but it should squirt.

Question:

You are getting good fuel pressure from the lift pump when you bump the starter... right? Didn't you borrow or buy a fuel pressure test gauge at some point?

John L.

I am unclear as to whether it is squirting. Yes, I have a liquid filled, diagnostic gauge that I got from Geno's connected. The Raptor develops 15 psi and maintains it nicely.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon,

One other thought if you still can't start the engine...

Back when this whole problem started for you, I believe you said you suspected the lift-pump hadn't been working for some time. The problem was traced to a failed ECM which you've had repaired.

I wonder if possibly the VP44 could have been damaged by the lack of fuel supply, and now this might be reason the engine won't start despite having a repaired ECM?

If you don't have any luck starting the engine in a reasonable amount of time, you might want to consider hot-wiring the VP44 to help positively identify whether or not it's working properly. If you decide to do that, read THIS POST.

Regards,

John L.

Dumb question, maybe... . how do you connect to those pins?

Also, I have a reman VP44 on it now, so it should be OK.