Long Crank Times & Sometimes No Starts

[SWithrow]

I am happy as a Minnesota Pig in Mud,SWithrow Please return the core ASAP to US. Also please do NOT attach the FCA to the Pump. Now you are ready for the wild rail to match that Pump, Your Injectors will be Happy for their entire life, not to mention your wallet will recover. Remember that Pump was modded by us (T&C) please allow Me to service it. The manifold is modded entirely different then any pump on the Market. Now take a break and relax... ..... Heeeeeeeeee

Well it passed Virginia's inspections (good for another year), been driving it around for 3 months with a dead inspection because the truck would not start therefore it would not pass. I have putt putted around today and sometimes it takes two tries to start sometimes one but it is nice to know I don't have to pop the hood and crack a fuel line just to get it started. A ton of thanks TWest, you have been a big help. I am saving for a set of injectors (maybe summer time)

 

[CoastyAV8R]

Did you buy a standard pump or did you go with a hopped version? Glad to hear the truck is running again, it's frustrating chasing your tail.

 

[SWithrow]

I purchased a Stage 1 from TWest, not too wild but I did notice a performance increase. Worth the time it took to install.

 

[Walker1]

Wow, my friends 03 is doing the same thing. Never thought of cracking the lines. He's taking it in tomorrow for new injectors hoping to solve the problem.

 

[JNorwood]

SWithrow , Was the Problem just the CP3 Pump ? I am having Rail Problems myself i am trying to fix, My truck starts fine and has good rail pressure cold 7k , When it warms up , it will go down to 4k-4. 5k rail pressure. and when i drive it never gets above 5 - 5. 5k ??

 

[SWithrow]

I installed a stage 1 CP3 and initially helped but I am back to the same issue of hard starts after I bring the truck up to operating temp 200+ degrees. I am back to cracking the high or low side of the fuel system and then the truck will start up. Once the truck is running it runs great and now with the new CP3 it is great enhansment to the Bully Dog. I have been working close with TWest to solve this problem. I WILL NOT LET IT BEAT ME. I will keep posting my progress and setbacks.

My rail pressure is fine while cranking, idle and running the truck down the road.

 

[CoastyAV8R]

SWithrow, have you already capped the lines to try to find if it's one bad injector? I'm just curious...

 

[TCDiesel]

We are down to Injectors, I just cannot understand the relationship between loosening the Line and the immediate start,the truck has NO other sign of injector(s) failure. Tonight SWithrow loosen the LV banjo and it started. I have loosen the lines before on no start conditions and the truck still did NOT start,SWithrow truck ONLY does it at running temps. I have had injector check out by the BEST and found nothing wrong,Placed back in vehicle and condition persist,Here how fuzzy 3gen injectors are,I installed some NEW 90s in My 03 then removed them Installed the Factory ones, then install the 90s in a customer truck and it would not run correctly so we removed them and install new and it ran fine,Keep in mind that the truck NEVER left the bay..... Now I reinstall them in My 03 and they ran fine. I removed them and reinstalled The factory injectors that are still running good. I sent them BACK and Bosch cover them under warranty. . I told the rep what happen, and he mentioned its not the 1st time he heard this.

 

[SWithrow]

SWithrow, have you already capped the lines to try to find if it's one bad injector? I'm just curious...

I have, but the problem is when I crack ANY line (high or low side) and re-tighten, the truck fires up and runs fine, no fuel in oil, no leaks. I can't figure it out, yet. As soon as the temp breaks here in Virginia I will be all over it (like ugly on a gorilla. )

 

[CoastyAV8R]

I have the same problem as you, the truck fires right in the coldest of temps without being plugged in but when it gets up to running temp and you let it sit for 10 minutes when it's warm, it's reluctant to start. I've tried the rail pressure sensor and FCA (thanks to Twest for loaning me his test units), checked the LV (it's fine with no blowby), installed a buddy's cascade overflow valve (COV) with no change, retorqued the tubes, removed my FASS pump and went back to stock and capped the injector lines (found no definitive bad injector) so all that's left for me is injectors as well and I think there is more than one leaking which is why I didn't find a definitively bad single injector.



I will say that my truck isn't affected by cracking a fuel line, if it didn't feel like starting, it wouldn't start regardless of cracking a fuel line or not. Since I've removed the FASS, it does start quicker but i'm not really sure why. I haven't driven it on a long enough drive to really get it up to temp so I can't say it's fixed until I do so. The only connection to cracking a fuel line I can think of is that it relieves all the pressure in the rail and lets some sort of valve reset itself. I dont know how the injectors look on the inside but perhaps when you crack the line, it allows a pressure controlling spring/ball arrangement to reseat itself in the injector or maybe the LV.



The only thing that really had me scratching my head was when I pulled the rail pressure sensor, it was bronze in color rather than the shiny metallic of the test unit and I know that SWithrow's rail pressure sensor looked like an anodized blue in color. Both to me would suggest they were exposed to high temps but I've never notice my common rail getting hot enough to discolor a metallic sensor like that.

 

[CIverson]

I have the same problem as you, the truck fires right in the coldest of temps without being plugged in but when it gets up to running temp and you let it sit for 10 minutes when it's warm, it's reluctant to start. I've tried the rail pressure sensor and FCA (thanks to Twest for loaning me his test units), checked the LV (it's fine with no blowby), installed a buddy's cascade overflow valve (COV) with no change, retorqued the tubes, removed my FASS pump and went back to stock and capped the injector lines (found no definitive bad injector) so all that's left for me is injectors as well and I think there is more than one leaking which is why I didn't find a definitively bad single injector.



I will say that my truck isn't affected by cracking a fuel line, if it didn't feel like starting, it wouldn't start regardless of cracking a fuel line or not. Since I've removed the FASS, it does start quicker but i'm not really sure why. I haven't driven it on a long enough drive to really get it up to temp so I can't say it's fixed until I do so. The only connection to cracking a fuel line I can think of is that it relieves all the pressure in the rail and lets some sort of valve reset itself. I dont know how the injectors look on the inside but perhaps when you crack the line, it allows a pressure controlling spring/ball arrangement to reseat itself in the injector or maybe the LV.



The only thing that really had me scratching my head was when I pulled the rail pressure sensor, it was bronze in color rather than the shiny metallic of the test unit and I know that SWithrow's rail pressure sensor looked like an anodized blue in color. Both to me would suggest they were exposed to high temps but I've never notice my common rail getting hot enough to discolor a metallic sensor like that.

This is what mine did, wouldn't start after warming up. Mine would start with ether though. I bought a rail pressure sensor and determined low pressure at startup. I put in remans and all has been well.

 

[SWithrow]

We are down to Injectors, I just cannot understand the relationship between loosening the Line and the immediate start,the truck has NO other sign of injector(s) failure. Tonight SWithrow loosen the LV banjo and it started. I have loosen the lines before on no start conditions and the truck still did NOT start,SWithrow truck ONLY does it at running temps. I have had injector check out by the BEST and found nothing wrong,Placed back in vehicle and condition persist,Here how fuzzy 3gen injectors are,I installed some NEW 90s in My 03 then removed them Installed the Factory ones, then install the 90s in a customer truck and it would not run correctly so we removed them and install new and it ran fine,Keep in mind that the truck NEVER left the bay..... Now I reinstall them in My 03 and they ran fine. I removed them and reinstalled The factory injectors that are still running good. I sent them BACK and Bosch cover them under warranty. . I told the rep what happen, and he mentioned its not the 1st time he heard this.

TWest,

I installed the pressure relief vlave and still have the hard/no start issue. I was able to start the truck after it sat for 3 nights.

 

[TCDiesel]

SWithrow you are the 1st that I know of with this problem relate to Injectors. (Only B/C they are the only devices not replaced). I still cannot understand the relationship between the lower pressure and starting correctly.

 

[CIverson]

SWithrow you are the 1st that I know of with this problem relate to Injectors. (Only B/C they are the only devices not replaced). I still cannot understand the relationship between the lower pressure and starting correctly.

I can tell you that when I had my issues, whenever I'd change the fuel filter, it would start.

 

[SWithrow]

I can tell you that when I had my issues, whenever I'd change the fuel filter, it would start.

Did you ever fix and if so what was the fix?

 

[TCDiesel]

I can tell you that when I had my issues, whenever I'd change the fuel filter, it would start.

He ran without the filter and it would start,the filter is way downstream form the injectors,and if installing New injectors solve the Problem What is the relationship between the filter and injectors,and to top it off it will only not start when at runnings temps. I will know more when I return form CO and tare down his Pump.

 

[CIverson]

Did you ever fix and if so what was the fix?

Yes, Injectors. I've posted about my issues in this thread earlier. Basically, no start when hot.

 

[CoastyAV8R]

Swithrow,

I'm going to do the injector return flow test as it really is the best way to get down to one specific injector and it's not that much more involved than capping the lines to each injector. It has specific limits on how much you should see being returned from the injectors and seems to be a much more clear cut way to find a bad injector if you don't have one that is specifically causing your problem. When I capped mine, I didn't have a definitive bad injector which leads me to believe I have more than 1 that is beyond the service limits. You have to buy the 9012 Miller tool along with having a rail cap but it isn't rocket science to do it from what I have read.

 

[TCDiesel]

Yes,We done this enough to learn it is some what flawed,Like you mentioned if more then one is weak you can only guess. Save yourself the Hassle/time/effort/blood and skin, and just replace them all. Only down side $$$,The rule in 3rd Gen injectors if one fails the rest will follow.

 

[Slow Six]

I agree with TWest. When I had this problem I replaced them all.