2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pillar post gauge problem

[SRath]

I have a triple gauge pillar post pod for my gauges, which are Autometer Sport Comp II's. After trimming the pod to fit over my A-pillar trim, and cutting access holes for the wiring and tubing through the factory trim, and using 3M adhesive tape to mount the pod to the trim, I now find the boost gauge does not allow enough space behind it for the ferrule and fitting to attach the 1/8" tubing when the gauge is clocked into proper position. The cup on the gauge pod is simply not deep enough and cannot be trimmed either. I don't want to have to mount the gauge upside down to clock the fitting to the cup, either.

I don't recall what brand name the pod is; I have had the pod and gauges for some time and I'm just now trying to mount and hook everything up. It is not made by Autometer. I think Glow Gauge or somebody like that made it.

Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Is there a triple gauge pod available that has deeper gauge cups that will definitely fit an Autometer mechanical boost gauge?

The other two gauges, pyrometer and fuel pressure, have plug-in electrical connectors and do not require the rear mounting depth that the boost gauge does, so I don't think I will have the same problem with them.

Is there a such thing as a 90* adapter I can look for to hook the boost tubing, ferrule, and fitting up that would save space?

 

[CCiatteo]

Can you relieve the factory A-pillar trim to gain the necessary space? My full length autometer 2-guage pod works great, plenty of depth for the boost and pyro connections plus the wiring. Are you using the plastic tubing? or trying to run something more substantial (braided line?)

Could you move the boost guage to one of the other holes, maybe offering more room?

Chris

 

[SRath]

I just got back from True Value where the guy 'helping' me was hopeless... (sometimes being the only customer in the store is a bad thing ). Once he finally gave up on finding a 90* fitting to fit the gauge and the compression fitting, and wandered off to do something he was good at (dusting paint cans?), I found what I needed myself in under a minute. So I think I have the problem solved for $1. 68 barring any further issues.



I had already cut the factory A-pillar completely out behind each gauge pod, but it was the pod itself that caused the interference. The gauges need to seat straight and flush, but the pod cups curve too soon and tightly to allow it. The pods don't even allow enough room around the gauges to use the backing brackets to secure the gauges in the holes and I will have to rely on the tight friction fit in the pod holes to do that. The gauge mounting studs for those brackets hit the tight walls of the pods, too, but I can deal with them. The pod is from GlowShift and I highly do NOT recommend it to anyone else, but it is all I have and I need to make it work.



On a related note: Has anyone experienced any problems with running the LED gauge lights on the rheostat (dimmer) circuit the rest of the instrument lights use? I know Autometer sells an LED dimmer switch for its LED gauges for $35 or so, but I would like to avoid that expense if my existing dash light dimmer will work OK.

 

[DSpringstead]

SRath

I've got a similar problem. I ordered Phantom II gages & the pod from Geno's. I've trimmed & beveled back the retaining rings but found that I had to position the Boost gauge at the bottom because of that. Seems that the pod has (at least on mine) a more gradual taper. But I have to cut off part of the retaining ring because it hits the A-pillar trim & won't quite seat right. A cordless Dremel does wonders. Hope this helps!

 

[CCiatteo]

... ... .

On a related note: Has anyone experienced any problems with running the LED gauge lights on the rheostat (dimmer) circuit the rest of the instrument lights use? I know Autometer sells an LED dimmer switch for its LED gauges for $35 or so, but I would like to avoid that expense if my existing dash light dimmer will work OK.

I run the LED lights in the Z-series gauages on my Dodge and they work fine with the factory dimmer switch and the brightness is not an issue. I also run the LED lights in autometer Ultra Lite gauges in my 99 Firebird, but they tend to run much brighter compared to the rest of the factory dash lights in that application. So I'm not sure if its a wiring deal (Dodge vs GM) or some other factor at play.



Either way its much better than the running the standard bulb with the green boot thing.



Chris

 

[DSpringstead]

CCiatteo

I was wondering how they would do. The Phantom II's have LED's & a reverse lighting effect so at night they have a dark dial with highlighted numbers & increments. Being in a pod I had a concern about being too bright.

 

[CCiatteo]

CCiatteo

I was wondering how they would do. The Phantom II's have LED's & a reverse lighting effect so at night they have a dark dial with highlighted numbers & increments. Being in a pod I had a concern about being too bright.

In both of my applications, the factory dimmer still works fine. Its just that in the Pontiac, the LEDs are noticeably brighter at every given position of the dimmer, so the autometer guages are always brighter than the factory dash. In the Dodge, the LEDS are much closer to the factory lighting for some reason and so you don't even pick up on the difference. I never has good luck with the standard bulb and using the little red/green/blue boot things. They either dimmed the lighting too much or tended to melt or just plain suck.

 

[kglenn]

When I put the triple gauges in the truck my daughter now has, I took the factory A-pillar trim completely out and just used the gauge mount I bought. I wanted to be able to take the gauges out if I chose to without ruining the factory trim. Maybe this is not the proper way but it has been in there for a few years now with no problems. Still have the factory trim in the storage shed.

 

[kenny61]

I've done the same, factory removed, gauge holder held in with one screw

 

[SRath]

I long ago broke the little "tail" that runs down the door jamb weatherstripping off my driver side pillar post and found a new one to replace it. So I used the old one to mount the pillar pod to with 3M double sided automotive tape. I didn't care about cutting large holes in it, and it mounted using the factory clips without drilling holes. Only time will tell how durable the tape will be, but it is that real sticky, all-weather stuff.



These gauges are becoming a real pita. First, the Genos bolt is the wrong size (as are the sealing washers I bought with it), now the doggone Cummins dealer sold the SAME doggone 24v sealing washers instead of the '96 12v ones I specifically asked for... So, I be making another trip to Cedar Rapids for a couple lousy rubber washers come Monday... The gas will cost more than they do.



Also, all I have left is drilling and tapping the hole for the pyro probe in the exhaust manifold. Kenny sent me photos of the location to drill awhile back, but of course i can't find them now.



My pyro probe is bent at a 90* angle, and I was under the impression that I would slide that collar fitting that threads into the manifold and holds the probe with a set screw all the way around the 90* so the probe would point horizonatally in the manifold. I have now decided the 1/4" pipe thread fitting will NOT slide around the probe's 90* corner and that I must mount the probe sticking vertically in the manifold. Is that how it is supposed to go?



And just what keeps exhaust from leaking around the probe where it passes through the pipe thread fitting with the set screw? It looks like it could easily leak past there.

 

[kenny61]

I'm in te woods wit my sons boy scout trrop campin I can resend pics Sunday afternoon

 

[SRath]

No sweat, Kenny. It was really only one of those "paralysis through analysis" situations, so I just started drilling and tapping and seemed to have hit the right spot (missed the internal divider nicely; I remembered that warning). I fished around in there thoroughly numerous times with a strong magnetic pickup tool and can't find any more metal shavings, so I'm calling it good. Now I just need the correct sealing washers for the banjo fitting on the fuel line and the triple gauges are all done. Maybe they will even work!

Enjoy the camping trip and the kids! I hope you're getting good weather.

 

[Hammer]

Scott...

I never liked the idea of doing the pillar over the factroy pillar either with mine. I did as a couple already stated and just used a screw with a cover cap to hide it and placed my factory pillar in the box of crap which I will never use again. I did the same with both my 2 gauge and 3 gauge pillars... ... ... andy

 

[DSpringstead]

CALLING FOR ALL ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!

I'm ready to install my gauge pod & being a newbie at this (yeah I know) I'd like to hear from ya'all out there on where the best place to splice into is. Now I have Autometer gauges that have LED back lighting. The gauges require 1) a ground termination (Blk wire). 2) a 12 volt fused switched (Red wire). 3) a 12 volt dash termination (white wire). I assume the white is for the dimmer in the headlight switch. Now to save on the amount of connections I would make could I wire the gauges "in series" so I'd only make 3 terminations in stead of 9? I'm ready to install this but don't want to rush into something I might be screwing up.

My sincere apologizes for the long post... ... .

 

[SRath]

That's what I did: wire all three white, all three black, and both red together, then attach the black to the screw that holds the pillar trim clip, the white to the wire coming out of the headlight switch (conveniently close) that controls and dims the dash lights. The red can go to any switched (hot only with key in "run") circuit wire coming out of your fusebox.



I'm installing a relay-controlled auxillary fuse panel that will provide power to accessories like the gauges, so my red wires will go to it.

 

[DSpringstead]

SRath

Thanks that'll put me at ease. 2 more questions tho.....

My boost gauge only has 2 wires 1 red for 12v + & 1 black for -. Now based on that would I splice the red from my boost LED into the other 2 white for the LED lights?

And a recommendation for the fuse box? does amperage come into play? Don't want to start popping lights or fuses. A relay auxillary fuse panel sounds very interesting,

gauges aren't the only accessory I have in mind.

 

[SRath]

On the first question: My boost gauge did not come with wires so I used white for the + post and black for the - post, just like the other gauges since they are for lighting. In your case, the red boost gauge wire (+ post) would indeed go with the other gauge's white (lighting) wires assuming your boost gauge is mechanical and uses 1/8" tubing to operate it.



As for the + gauge power wires (red on my fuel pressure and pyro gauges), you should be able to safely steal juice from almost any fused circuit that is hot only when the key is "on" or in "accessory". I doubt if they draw any significant amount of juice given the tiny wire gauge that Autometer uses. Not enough to blow a fuse.



I would avoid ever tapping into the airbag circuit, though, since I don't like the idea of anything spiking or causing that sucker to explode into my face while driving.



The separate auxiliary fuse panel, controlled by a relay, which in turn would be controlled by a switched hot (key "on") wire is a very handy source for all kinds of accessories as long as they don't need to operate with the key "off" or in "accessory".



If the majority of your auxiliary circuits need to operate in "accessory", such as a stereo, then you could use an "accessory" circuit wire to trigger the relay instead of a key "on" circuit wire. In truth, I may yet decide to power my auxiliary fuse panel from the "accessory" side. I don't think it would hurt anything for the gauges to receive power with the engine off and the key turned to "accessory".



Dresslered (David), among others here on TDR, would be a better expert to ask about any wiring and circuit add-ons or modifications, though. He's a whiz-kid on that stuff!

 

[SRath]

This gauge install is becoming a real hassle. Everything is in; all hooked up and lookin' good. I got the right banjo washers for my fuel line, bolted it back up, and finished some other things I was doing and finally fired the truck up to check the gauge functions.

Q > What should my gauge readings be while parked and the engine running under no load between idle and full throttle? (I have a pyro, lift pump fuel pressure, and boost gauge). This engine has no modifications at all except for a 4" exhaust and a better airbox and air filter. The fuel filter is not new.

0750 rpm > pyro 220*; boost 0 psi; fuel press 8-12 psi but highly erratic bouncing from 2-14
1000 rpm > pyro 220*; boost 0 psi; fuel press 8-12 psi and a tiny bit steadier but still erratic
1500 rpm > pyro 250*; boost 0 psi; fuel press 16-20 psi erratic
2000 rpm > pyro 320*; boost 0 psi; fuel press 22-24 psi erratic
2500 rpm > pyro 380*; boost 2 psi; fuel press 20 slightly steadier
3000 rpm > pyro 450*; boost 4 psi; fuel press 20-22

The fuel pressure gauge is always erratic, even with the needle valve barely cracked open or with it wide open, but smooths out a little bit as rpm's increase (very little).

The boost gauge barely moves off the peg even at full throttle and doesn't move at all until 2500 rpm. These are Autometer gauges, so I tend to think they are good quality, so the non-reading and ultra-low reading bothers me.

I used heavier-duty black plastic 1/8" air-brake line for semi's for the boost gauge instead of the white plastic line supplied with the gauge, as advised by others here. I installed it in that really difficult-to-reach pipe-plugged hole towards the front of my manifold.

When I disconnected the boost line from the back of the gauge, I could feel a little bit of air coming through the line. So I then crudely forced the larger vacuum hose attached to my tune-up vacuum/pressure gauge over the boost line and compression fitting at the gauge end of the black plastic line and got a maximum reading of 6psi with some air escaping (not a perfect seal to the boost line).

This isn't what I hoped for. That bouncy fuel pressure needle will undoubtedly drive me nuts in my peripheral vision and I either have no boost or the boost gauge doesn't work. If the numbers look right, the pyro is fine.

Ideas, comments, suggestions?

 

[kenny61]

If your doin it in Neutral dont expect to see much if any boost or temp change you need to put a load on it... Fuel i cant help you with its on my to do list

 

[CCiatteo]

I have autometer guages in my truck as well. Pyro looks about right, boost looks good and my fuel pressure isn't hooked up yet. Take it for a spin down the road and you'll get a better idea. The boost will really only move when accelerating, putting the engine under load. Idling it won't read much of anything and steady state cruising down the highway (unloaded) you might only see 5-6lbs of boost.