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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pillar post gauge problem

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) six speed Trans failure

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vp 44

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I figured the pyro needed load, just like the semis I drive, though very few company trucks ever have pyro or boost or fuel pressure instrumentation They're all 'computerized' now and don't want the driver to know what's going on under the hood. I'm happy with the pyro readings and gauge function, but the boost reading of zero or near zero bothered me. I'll get a seat bolted back in and take it out on the road before taking anything else back apart.



I was worried that I might have a hole in my intercooler or that the spot I recently discovered on the turbo to intercooler boot that rubbed on the bottom edge of the inner fenderwell so long was actually all the way through and leaking (doesn't look like it, but... ) those items are both expensive, and one is just a rubber boot! And, of course, there is/was the possibility I had installed a defective boost gauge. But I think the truck just runs too well to have any serious problems like near-zero boost, so you are probably right, Kenny.



I would still like to know if anyone else running a fuel pressure gauge has such erratic readings, too, while parked anyway.
 
Thanks for the confirmation, Chris. I thought the boost gauge would be the easiest sender/fitting to install, but that little plug is in a really tight spot for my hands and I dreaded the thought of removing those boost fittings to check for problems. The fuel pressure sender was the easiest to do. Just drill and tap the bolt, assemble the braided hose, needle valve, and sender, and plug in the harness. Even drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold was easier than installing that boost fitting. Go figure...

The fuel pressure gauge is the only one I bought used, and hopefully the erratic needle doesn't mean I got screwed. Even just the sender, if bad, is about $90 as I recall.
 
i never claimed to be any darn expert... ... . ;) In theory yes they are supposed tp do the samething dampen the pulses of the piston pump. as stated in dont have one so... have u tried to adjust the valve? also as more volume oof fuel is used the the pulses should becvome less severe... wait ttyill u get it on the road and see what its like
 
Both of your ideas are valid points, I think: 1> the snubber may work better at damping erractic gauge readings than a needle valve, and 2> I need to drive it awhile and see what it does in the real world first.



That hasn't happened yet, since the opportunity to make some money has put finishing what I'm doing to the pickup on the back burner for now, along with a week of intensive coaching and practice for the trap team, including modifying some of their guns to fit better. Saturday, I have to take the team 90 miles away for an all-day Invitational that includes the top team in the state. Maybe that garage-queen dodge will finally get road-tested on Sunday if I'm lucky.
 
on fuel pressure gauge bounce i had a snubber but even with the largest insert it took a few miles on the interstate for the gauge to get up to pressure and a while after shut down to drop so i binned it, my needle valve works fine but the adjustment is very sensitive and maybe once a month i need to tweak it to kill the bounce but my gauge is quick to respond like i want it to be, that way i can spot any change in behavior quickly, i have my OF valve tweaked to give me a range of 28-35# of fuel pressure, it was 5-10 below that and when i upped the pressure the truck became happier, your results may vary. on gauge lighting i run the pillar lights (incandescent) off the stock dash light wiring through a separate rheostat so i can trim them down a little, i like the dash at full power but thats too high on the in your face pillar lights, a 2 pin junkyard dash light rheostat ziptied under the dash cures this
 
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