Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Look at the new Cummins Oil pan

[HEMI®Dart]

Note the oil plug bung. It protrudes about a ½" into the pan. It is missing the side drain holes. So in a nutshell, totally draining to old oil out isn't going to happen.



I was surprised it was only $100. 89



The counter guy said he just sold an M11(855c. i) pan, 40 quart sump for $1800.

 

[GOTSOOT]

where are these engineers heads,oh I know "up their A##",do they just not think?it seems everyday they never cease to amaze me how dumb they are!!!

 

[mickeyblueyes]

Are you telling me that is a picture of the inside of the oil pan?

 

[JohnBoy5]

Are you telling me that is a picture of the inside of the oil pan?

looks like it to me. this kind of suck! does any one know if the 01 cummins is like this?

 

[Shadrach]

If you buy a replacement pan from Cummins for the pre 02 engine you get this new version, which BTW, has switched to an 18 mm drain like the 03 an up with the built in washer. It is kinda of dumb that there would still be that much room for dirty oil to stay in the pan but it also sits in puddles in the valleys in the head as well. I pour an extra litre (qt) of clean oil into the engine while the drain plug is still out to help flush out the remaining dirty stuff. The Dodge version of these pans are the only ones like this. All the other 5. 9 pans have the drain on the edge of the pan instead of the bottom and they also have a bung for an oil pan heater. Dodge cheaped out. Shadrach

 

[fmj]

hummmmm. i know what i'd do and thats cut it square around the indent and flip it and reweld. end of problem. shame you have to do anything with the price of stuff. probably some engineer from mit that won't listen to anyone because he educated.

 

[budnate]

wow, that's not just a little bump, it is pretty big, I bet that holds dang near 3/4 of quart of old oil. the guy should be beat to death with one of these pans that designed it and the moron that OK'd it into production.



if you really want a stupid answer forward this thread to the Ram Engineers... there response will be you should look at the 2010 Ram they sure are neat.



B.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Yep, This is a picture of inside of the pan. Perhaps the engineer's who designed the updated one (I can get the p/n later) know the mileage these engine can go without a rebuild. 900K, One-Million? So leaving ¾ of a quart of dirty oil in the sump will really not make much of a difference. I dunno

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Shadrach,



I thought that I would get the Cummins tan colored pan. It came "Bluke". Maybe I should have looked at one for a 6BTA5. 9 instead? I have an OEM 22mm drain plug in my tool box. I will see if it threads in. The new pan did come w/ a new drain plug which surprised me, since it is a seperate p/n.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Felpro O/P Gasket

Is this made to be put on dry? Dry scares me. Too hit or miss. I don't need the latter. In other words no Permetex? I thought it was going to be a rigid one w/ locating tabs to hold it to the pan & gussetts around each bolt hole to prevent overtorqing? Is this available? For a $20 gasket, I was expection better?



Felpro OS30694

 

[BHaden]

I just re-gasketed my 95 and I used as VERY thin layer of black RTV. I'm like you; I don't trust dry installation on old stuff. I also made sure I beat all the bolt holes on the pan down flat with a flat faced hammer (they were not deformed much but I wanted to be sure it was flat. After about 3000 miles it's still dry.

 

[JGheen]

Is this made to be put on dry? Dry scares me. Too hit or miss. I don't need the latter. In other words no Permetex? I thought it was going to be a rigid one w/ locating tabs to hold it to the pan & gussetts around each bolt hole to prevent overtorqing? Is this available? For a $20 gasket, I was expection better?



Felpro OS30694

That is the type of gasket I have seen for all of our Cummins 5. 9L. I would put it on dry, making sure your gasket surfaces are flat & clean, razoring off any old RTV on the engine side surfaces and put a dab of black or grey RTV at the two corners where the front case meets the block and the two corners where the rear main seal housing meets the block. This has served me well, as long as you have an accurate torque wrench, use the proper tightening sequence and don't pinch the gasket by over-tightening/torqueing, it is designed to be installed DRY. This is the same with just about all gaskets on the engine..... cylinder head, front cover & gear case, tappet cover, rear main seal housing, etc. I only use RTV at mating corners where oil can seep past a gasket surface meeting another gasket surface. Such as the case where the oil pan, meets the block and the front gear case all in one spot. RTV will seal that spot up, the oil has no where to go if the surface is flat and the bolts are tightened the same on the oil pan rails.

Not saying applying RTV won't be just as good or prevent leaks, it just makes a mess and is a PITA to clean up & get completely off if in fact it does leak again someday when you coulda just installed it clean and dry like it is designed to be.



Joe

 

[JGheen]

BTW, speaking of designs, that is the stupidest design of an oil pan anyone could have thought up. Not sure what kind of crack that guy smoked before he went to work that day but it must have been some good stuff!:-laf:-laf



Joe