Here I am

Help with weight distributing hitch setup.

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18k trailer in the mountains = 230 temps?

Transfer flow fuel tank question?

I had a similar "stinger" once before and put a new metal cutting blade in the sawzall and shortened it so I wouldn't "plow" with it. Once I got the head where I wanted it, I cut right thru one of the open holes below the head. I ground some of the sharp edges off and then applied a little black paint to help cut down on the rust. Don't cut off any of the reinforcing web.



"Deezul" - love your license plate.
 
I keep getting different opinions on the bars. If they are higher at the chains won't they be too close to the trailer frame?

I'll probably add another hole in the stinger to make it "shorter"

It's a 10,000 lb max hitch with 600 lb bars.

Seemed to tow pretty nice. The trailer is slightly nose down.
 
I keep getting different opinions on the bars. If they are higher at the chains won't they be too close to the trailer frame?



I'll probably add another hole in the stinger to make it "shorter"



It's a 10,000 lb max hitch with 600 lb bars.



Seemed to tow pretty nice. The trailer is slightly nose down.



10,000 max hitch needs at least 1000lb bars. Anything less for bars is unsafe. Those are NOT the right bars for the hitch.
 
10,000 max hitch needs at least 1000lb bars. Anything less for bars is unsafe. Those are NOT the right bars for the hitch.

Come on now. Statements like that make it hard to take advice when they are dead wrong.

Here is what the label on one of the bars says... .

Reese
600 Wt distributing spring bar - lbs
10,000 max gross trailer weight - lbs
600 max hitch weight 2-bars - lbs

The trailer has a max gvw of 10,000.

Now why is it the wrong setup? Maybe i do have a higher hitch weight would be the only reason.
You may be right about the bars being too weak but I am able to get a decent level with it right now without too much pressure on the bars.

It tows pretty good. Am I gonna go out and buy another hitch? Should I..... Which one.

This hitch was sold to the guy that bought the trailer brand new by an RV dealer... Kelly Mobile Homes & RV Sales

I did read some hitch directions that says to try and get the ball as close to the bumper as possible like tempforce said. I will be drilling another hole in it.

On edit:

I went to the Reese website. It doesn't look like they have this size hitch anymore. They all look to be 12,000,1200. They don't show spring bars as being available separately. I'll give them a call.
 
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A conventional travel trailer such as yours normally places 10% to 15% of it's gross weight on the hitch. 10% to 15% of 10k is obviously 1000 to 1500 lbs.

Your trunnion bars are not even close to strong enough. Your trailer needs 1000 lb. trunnion (spring) bars. Whoever sold you those bars was dumping inventory that had been ordered by mistake. He knew or should have known better.
 
I have to agree. I'll be giving Reese a call to see if they sell just the 1200 lb bars. If not I have no choice but to buy a complete new setup.

One question though. My hitch label says each bar is 600lbs. It also says it carries 600 lbs hitch, 2 bars.

That is a little confusing. I would have thought two 600 lb bars is 1200 lbs total?
 
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The weight rating of the bars is not for the amount of tongue weight. It is how much weight they will transfer to the front axle. Like said above, the stinger is way too long. The leverage that it creates will cause problems with your receiver by placing the load to the receiver in the wrong place.
 
OK I found the 1200# bars... . Reese 66009
Just not sure if they will work on this ball mount. I found this... Not sure what they mean by curved bars. My bars are straight except for the very end where the chain attaches. Gotta give Reese a call.

Scary... . The guy answers has my first name and last name initial.

Availability of 1,200 Pound Weight Distribution Spring Bars to Replace 800 Pound Spring Bars | etrailer.com
Availability of 1,200 Pound Weight Distribution Spring Bars to Replace 800 Pound Spring Bars

Featured Help Information
Installation InstructionsInstructions for RP66022

Question:

Will these bars fit if I increase from 800 to 1200lb. bars? My current hitch is an 800/10000lb. Reese trunion/dual cam set-up.


Expert Reply:

If your current weight distribution system is less than 3 years old, then you will be able to use the Replacement Trunnion Spring Bar, # RP66009 or the kit, # 6666. If it is the old style system, the bars will not fit in the head. The head you would need is # RP58167. This is the new style head that is compatible with the 1,200 pound bars.

If you needed to replace the head and the bars, you may as well replace the whole system as the cost is about the same. You would need High Performance Trunnion Weight Distribution System, # RP66022. I have included a link to the installation details for this system below.

expert reply by: Michael H
 
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The weight rating of the bars is not for the amount of tongue weight. It is how much weight they will transfer to the front axle. Like said above, the stinger is way too long. The leverage that it creates will cause problems with your receiver by placing the load to the receiver in the wrong place.



OK if I have 1200# tongue weight what size bars do I need?
 
Apparently Reese does not talk to it's customers. They do not offer a phone number and the "contact us" page errors out as "not available" when you send a note.
 
I am going to suggest something different that was already touched on but no apparent attention to detail was given. Your hitch on your truck is bent beyond its limit and I have to believe it is taking much more leverage on your bars to overcome the weakness in your hitch. I do agree with the others when they say your bars should be at least 1000lbs. but in your case, it would possibly add even more stress to your hitch. With your hitch bent up like that, your trunnion needs to be adjusted with a negative camber to keep your bars from hitting the frame... ... ... . as they did in your original photos.



With all that said... ... . I would also like to know if your lift kit replaced the rear springs. That trailer seems a little small to load a 2500 Ram so dramatically. I would think 600lb bars would 'work' on a 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins truck enough to 'equalize' the load and put enough weight back on he front end. That is just my opinion..... you still need the 1000lb bars.



My take and advice?? ... ... . Do what you and others suggested and shorten the stringer. Go out a replace your hitch and then try your bars without the added leverage of the stringer being too long. If you still cannot get enough leverage for equalization, then go for the 1000lb bars.



My personal opinion is that any added leverage that 1000lb bars would generate as your truck sits now, would only be overcome by your hitch being weak and in a 'tweaked up' position. My 01' pulls a 5k lb trailer most of the time and without a WD hitch. Over the last 5 yrs of towing this trailer daily with an 8" drop and no WD hitch, the factory receiver has split near the back two bolts and is pulled down slightly. I did a search on here and it seems that this appears to be a normal wear item on 'abused' Dodge trucks:rolleyes:



Alan
 
My truck is on factory rear springs. Only the tires are not stock. Front has a leveling kit (taller springs).

I will take a closer look at the hitch. I'm not sure if it is bent or it simply shifted at the mounting bolts. I'll also look close for compromised weld joints.

I was able to easily get the bars below the trailer frame with the setup I have now and still had some camber adjustment left.

I took it for a highway run with the current setup. Highway manners seemed fine. Nothing strange at 60-65 mph. This trailer has Dexter axles and shock absorbers. It doesn't move over bumps when I'm looking in the rear view. I did notice it porposed just a little going over a hump at about 30 mph. I attribute that to the too long of a drawbar.

Yes... I will shorten that.

Your hitch on your truck is bent beyond its limit and I have to believe it is taking much more leverage on your bars to overcome the weakness in your hitch.

That statement I do not understand.
 
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Yeah, I agree... ..... a lot of your problem will be solved when you shorten the stringer. I just ordered my hitch from Redneck Trailer in Carlisle,Pa. $112. 00 and some change-wholesale. Hitch is rated at 10000lb GTW and 12000lb w/WD hitch. It is a 1-piece design and appears to be much more stout than the factory receiver... ... ... let me know if you want me order you one or you need help... ... ... ... ... ... . I am a Dealer!



Alan
 
take the hitch, weld another 4'' on top and drill some more holes. then you can mount the hitch ball at the right height . shouldn't be a lot of problem.
 
Come on now. Statements like that make it hard to take advice when they are dead wrong.



Here is what the label on one of the bars says... .



Reese

600 Wt distributing spring bar - lbs

10,000 max gross trailer weight - lbs

600 max hitch weight 2-bars - lbs



The trailer has a max gvw of 10,000.



Now why is it the wrong setup? Maybe i do have a higher hitch weight would be the only reason.

You may be right about the bars being too weak but I am able to get a decent level with it right now without too much pressure on the bars.



It tows pretty good. Am I gonna go out and buy another hitch? Should I..... Which one.



This hitch was sold to the guy that bought the trailer brand new by an RV dealer... Kelly Mobile Homes & RV Sales



I did read some hitch directions that says to try and get the ball as close to the bumper as possible like tempforce said. I will be drilling another hole in it.



On edit:



I went to the Reese website. It doesn't look like they have this size hitch anymore. They all look to be 12,000,1200. They don't show spring bars as being available separately. I'll give them a call.

Your last sentence says what I'm trying to tell you: Hitches are not rated per bar but the combined capacity of both bars hence a 12,000 gross hitch will have bars rated 10% of that. The way those bars have bent tells the story. Those are the first bars that I've ever seen bent.
 
I was mistaken. Reese does still have my model 66020

My question is why do they sell a unit (mine) with a 10,000lb rating and 600 lb bars?

After asking one of the dealers if 1200 lb bars would fit my unit they said yes. Looks like that's the lowest cost solution. $189 for the pair shipped.
 
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Hoot...

... if you can swing it, just get a new set up, heaviest you can get . I believe it will be a 12k/1200 set up. Then put the old stuff up on Craigslist and let someone else deal with it. Definitely check the reciever on the truck, Dodge doesn't use that high quality of a set up from the factory. You will see after a while the hole for the hitch pin will oval out . I replaced mine with a Titan Class 5 set up. Do check and see if yours has been tweaked upward as others have suggested.
 
I wonder if the drop bar pictured below would work better?



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To bad your not closer, as I have been trying to sell this one for years. I used it on a different truck about 6 times before I got the CTD.
 
... if you can swing it, just get a new set up, heaviest you can get . I believe it will be a 12k/1200 set up. Then put the old stuff up on Craigslist and let someone else deal with it. Definitely check the reciever on the truck, Dodge doesn't use that high quality of a set up from the factory. You will see after a while the hole for the hitch pin will oval out . I replaced mine with a Titan Class 5 set up. Do check and see if yours has been tweaked upward as others have suggested.



Maybe you're right. Take the new drawbar back for a refund and sell the whole unit.



Thanks brian. Yes that looks like the one that comes with the complete setup from Reese. RP66542
 
I was real happy with how the Reese system worked when we had a bumper pull. With my CTD and previous bumper pull trailer the reese drop bar pictured in my previous post didn't offer enough drop, so I had to switch to a longer drop bar, but it doesn't look like you have that problem.
 
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