SpynTec lock out hubs?

[DGamelin]

Got the Spicers yesterday started to put them in and they had rust under the caps. So I called them and they said they would over night them, they didn't show up today. So I got some precisions. When you see them side by side the spicers do look better. You can hold the precision and turn the cap back and forth as hard as you can and fell the bearings in them the spicer are smooth. But I am getting disappointed in them, after these two and about a month ago I took one out of the rear drive shaft that had about 50k on it looking for a vibration. The joint was dimpled vary badly, it wasn't the problem we were looking for.

Before I got started on mine a truck came in with all kinds of air brake problems so now mine has to wait again. I don't like to talk about precisions but we haven't had a lot of luck with them. They just seme to need to be replaced a lot more often. But I do like the fact that they are greasable. I dont think strenght is a issue in a stock set up. By the time I am done with this job the spicers will be here again. ???



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 278k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 116k

 

[mtman86]

How far do the hubs stick out past the hubcap in a single rear wheel setup? I had heard the DynaTracs slightly protrude past the factory hubcap. Is this the same for the

Spyntec?

 

[DennyDay]

Yes, they do stick out, kinda' like the older Fords I questioned Matt Martin about the sticking out, and he told me that in order to maintain enough space between the inner and outer bearings, so they would hold up. The OEM bearing packs have very little space and they don't hold up.



Here is a picture, I've since added Aluminum Wheels

 

[roadking]

YES! I can't wait to do this next spring. I am looking to do a complete axle end rebuild with this kit, complete with greasable ball and universal joints. I like that this kit uses all OEM stuff. What are we paying for these kits... . Not including labor? I do that myself.

Those who did their own, what was the hardest part?, getting the hub out of the knuckle?

wayner let me know when you do it, i want to also, maybe we get a good price.

 

[DennyDay]

I'm pretty much up on what's required to do the job. I've done Ford SD's so I guess it's pretty much the same deal with the bearing being stuck. The difference here will be doing it on the ground and not on the lift... I will be using whatever greasable joints I can get, of course I prefer Spicer, but Precision is OK, especially since they will be under a lot less stress after the conversion- i'd rather be able to flush them out with grease. I have precision in the rear shaft. . No problems.

Wayne - - I would definately use greasable ball joints, but would think again about the U joints - - the only time they will turn is when the hubs are locked - - should last for ever

 

[retirednak]

What do you fellas think,am I getting a good price or am i getting hosed?



I can get the spintech kit for my dually for $1750 to my from door here in Alaska. The highest was $2195 to my door. Last question,with mine being a dually and has the plasic chrome wheel covers,how do I cut out the center for the hubs to stick through?



Thanks guys,

Casey

 

[DennyDay]

What do you fellas think,am I getting a good price or am i getting hosed?



I can get the spintech kit for my dually for $1750 to my from door here in Alaska. The highest was $2195 to my door. Last question,with mine being a dually and has the plasic chrome wheel covers,how do I cut out the center for the hubs to stick through?



Thanks guys,

Casey

That sounds like a good price - - you can drill the covers with a 4. 25 inch hole saw. Locate the center, drill a quarter inch hole, then and this is important reverse the centering drill bit so it won't wobble the center hole, then drill about 3/4 of the way thru the back of the cap and finish from the front - - this way the heat won't build up to fast - - - OR - - - find a machime shop and habe then cut them

 

[retirednak]

Thanks Denny!

 

[DMcGalliard]

Hole thru cap

I used 4 - 1/8" miller hole saw for a perfect fit. Also to find the center from the back side, the plastic tab is the center, do a pilot hole thru the broken tab. I used my drill press as the plastic is tough and go slow to get thru the metal to keep it from tearing. The warn hub is flush with the hole and looks great. Oo.



Dave Mc

 

[NavyDood]

Yes, they do stick out, kinda' like the older Fords

Depending on what rims you run, they may not stick out very far. I have the Dynatrac with Warn hubs.

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[DGamelin]

Here is what they look like on a dully. Just got back from a run tried to wash it but it is nasty out side.



_________________________

93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 278k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 118k

 

[retirednak]

Thanks guys,I'll have to use my friends drill press when we do the hubs. Looking forward to doing the hubs,when we had the truck in the air doing the Mopar steering upgrade,the u joints are starting to show rust. Noticed I'll have to replace the ball joints too. #@$%! Its turning into a big black money pit.

 

[AMcCormick]

What is the distance from the wheel mounting surface on a single wheel application?

 

[retirednak]

Here is what they look like on a dully. Just got back from a run tried to wash it but it is nasty out side.



_________________________

93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 278k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 118k

Looking at your pics,makes me feel lots better about installing the hubs on my truck. The hubs don't look out of place on the DRW's compaired to SRW trucks.

 

[DennyDay]

To the top to capture picture

 

[Wayne M.]

I finally did mine! I lost this thread... I posted on the wrong one. Here's how it went for me- with pictures!!

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229931

Starting with #15.

I did have an issue with the snap ring I had to use interfering with the spline in the lock and making a buzz, but I went back in, cleaned the dust, and filed down the top of the snap ring. All good now. I'm happy...