DPF Delete

[HowardC]

I just got my 2011 Ram and I've been out of the diesel world for the last 4 years so I have a lot of catching up to do. My last truck was a 2005 so my 2011 is a whole new critter to me!!! How does one go about getting rid of the whole exhaust system on one of these new trucks? Won't it void my warranty? Surely there is something that can be done. :-{}

 

[2Rowdy]

I am not completely up on the 2011 models. Yes it will void you're warranty. IIRC H&S is the only one with a programmer out right now to do the deletes, SMARTY should be out soon though. IMHO if you delete the exhaust you should for sure do the egr/cooler also. That is the way mine is done.

 

[Tryingit]

These new trucks are a different breed. Any tuner you use will be detectable to the dealer. So any tuner would most likely void your warranty. The exhaust replacement will do nothing for performance or sound either. The new muffler is a straight through design. Here is some good reading for your truck... .





Tricks, Tips, and Technical Data - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

 

[JHumphries]

If you use DPF-R, it's not traceable. It doesn't cover the EGR, though.
I e-mailed them, and they have a way to disable the EGR. You just have to contact them.
DPF-R doesn't flash the computer. It continually resets the regen counter so it never starts the regen process.

 

[KLauber]

EGR delete?

If you use DPF-R, it's not traceable. It doesn't cover the EGR, though.

I e-mailed them, and they have a way to disable the EGR. You just have to contact them.

DPF-R doesn't flash the computer. It continually resets the regen counter so it never starts the regen process.

Is it a separate product for the EGR? I'm shopping around for the best delete software.



Ken

 

[Jim W]

I just got my 2011 Ram and I've been out of the diesel world for the last 4 years so I have a lot of catching up to do. My last truck was a 2005 so my 2011 is a whole new critter to me!!! How does one go about getting rid of the whole exhaust system on one of these new trucks? Won't it void my warranty? Surely there is something that can be done. :-{}

First off you have to decide if you can delete in your state. Some states are checking and some are not checking the emission equipment for diesel trucks.

I have attached a state by state review of emission laws for anyone to review.



SEMA SAN - SEMA ACTION NETWORK



The next item you need to decide is if you want to void the remain time left on the warranty. Any software programmer that alters the emission duty cycle will leave a foot print behind in the ECM.



I had more issues with my emission equipment then I have with anything else on my truck. The first two years that I have own my truck I was in the dealership for 6 warranty issues all related to the emission equipment. Such as turbo cleaning, CEL on do to turbo plugging, CEL on for MAP sensor and the re-flash for emission up dates. I would also get the lighten bolt for the turbo when the air temperature would go below 20 F, if you accelerate hard.



After I installed my Smarty I have been code free and have never been back to the dealer.



Just my $0. 02

Jim

 

[JHumphries]

Is it a separate product for the EGR? I'm shopping around for the best delete software.

Ken

At this time our DPF-R electronics for the Dodge do not delete the EGR. I do however have another solution for the EGR Delete that only works on the 2010 trucks and works great in conjunction with our DPF-R. If you would like to give me a call a 877-217-1911 ext 101 I would be glad to walk you through it.

As far as traceability, the DPR-F is not a software programmer. The device stays plugged in all the time, resetting the regen counter. I tried to find the other email I had about how it, but I already deleted it.
They say the DPF-R is untraceable when removed because it doesn't alter the programming.
My concern is the computer's memory. Does it track regen cycles? If it does, you would have to restore the truck to normal, drive it long enough to do at least one regen. I don't know if it tracks all of them or not. If it does, that's one more way to mess things up.

 

[Simplysmn]

Just run the truck stock it will last just as much as a moded truck except for mp8 my 08 is totally stock and run's great just the way she is .

 

[Little John]

I just bought a 2011, 3500 ST (Stripped Truck) to replace an 06 with 5. 9, didn't want to let her go. I have had the 2011 for less than 2 weeks and already had to take it to the dealer. "Engine light came on and display read "Exhaust service required---See dealer now"" Took it in and was told not to drive it, since the engine could go bad??? Later, was told exhaust pressure sensor was the culprit. I'm still waiting for the dealer to get one in on slow boat from China. I have also heard from others, that due to the extreme cold temps in the interior of Alaska, that DPF and regeneration efforts do not work well. Does anyone else with a 6. 7 have any input on extreme cold and the 6. 7 cummins?

Thanks and Merry Christmas and the best in the new year.

 

[gtoli]

I had more issues with my emission equipment then I have with anything else on my truck. The first two years that I have own my truck I was in the dealership for 6 warranty issues all related to the emission equipment. Such as turbo cleaning, CEL on do to turbo plugging, CEL on for MAP sensor and the re-flash for emission up dates. I would also get the lighten bolt for the turbo when the air temperature would go below 20 F, if you accelerate hard.



After I installed my Smarty I have been code free and have never been back to the dealer.

Jim,

What kind of mileage increase have you seen?

 

[Jim W]

Jim,

What kind of mileage increase have you seen?

I usually provide to much information, so if it is too much I am sorry.

For the MY 2007-2008, as stock I average 11. 59 MPG with a high of 14 MPG and I low of 9. 35 MPG. For the MY 2009-2010 (full MY with the Smarty installed) I averaged 14. 17 MPG. With a high of 17. 54 MPG and a low of 11 MPG. I do tow a 5er and the low mileage readings are when I tow my 5er. I also use winter fuel, since I live in IL.

One of the things I have notice is, I traveled more miles and used less fuel in the MY of 2009-2010, then I did in the MY 2007-2008, and still saw an over all improvement in MY average use.





Jim

 

[Jim W]

I just bought a 2011, 3500 ST (Stripped Truck) to replace an 06 with 5. 9, didn't want to let her go. I have had the 2011 for less than 2 weeks and already had to take it to the dealer. "Engine light came on and display read "Exhaust service required---See dealer now"" Took it in and was told not to drive it, since the engine could go bad??? Later, was told exhaust pressure sensor was the culprit. I'm still waiting for the dealer to get one in on slow boat from China. I have also heard from others, that due to the extreme cold temps in the interior of Alaska, that DPF and regeneration efforts do not work well. Does anyone else with a 6. 7 have any input on extreme cold and the 6. 7 cummins?

Thanks and Merry Christmas and the best in the new year.

A winter front would help to retain the heat and use the Exhaust brake all the time. This should help too.

Jim

 

[tmerry]

I live in Homer, Alaska and have had 5,500 trouble free miles with mine. I dont tow very often either. I also use the Dodge winter front that came with the truck when purchased.

 

[gtoli]

I usually provide to much information, so if it is too much I am sorry.

For the MY 2007-2008, as stock I average 11. 59 MPG with a high of 14 MPG and I low of 9. 35 MPG. For the MY 2009-2010 (full MY with the Smarty installed) I averaged 14. 17 MPG. With a high of 17. 54 MPG and a low of 11 MPG. I do tow a 5er and the low mileage readings are when I tow my 5er. I also use winter fuel, since I live in IL.

One of the things I have notice is, I traveled more miles and used less fuel in the MY of 2009-2010, then I did in the MY 2007-2008, and still saw an over all improvement in MY average use.





Jim

Thanks Jim

 

[Little John]

I bought this truck from the dealer in Anchorage. It came with the winterization package, the front grille cover, and the block heater. I also installed 2 ea 200 watt heating pads on the engine oil pan, as well as a 200 watt on the transmission pan. I have been in -30 to -40 weather here in the interior already. Got told by the dealer it is the "Exhaust pressure sensor. " More gadgets and gimmicks to stuff onto vehicles to meet supposedly emission standards? With the 5. 9 I had, I used a superchip/flashpaq and was getting 22 MPG at 2150 RPM at 63 MPH. This one has a 6 speed and turning 1450 RPM's at 55 MPH and I'm only getting 15-16 MPH. Does anyone know, since the 2011's just came out, if there are any tuners available for the 11 MY yet? Will a 10 MY tuner work, or has the emissions and computer S/W that far gone?

 

[HowardC]

How often do most of the trucks "regen"? Is this once a month kind of thing or is this a once every 6 months? I assume it depends on how much driving, pulling, and idleing your truck does. How does the Regen work and how long does it take?

 

[Jim W]

How often do most of the trucks "regen"? Is this once a month kind of thing or is this a once every 6 months? I assume it depends on how much driving, pulling, and idleing your truck does. How does the Regen work and how long does it take?

I would read this post by one of the mechanic that works on the Cummins engine at a Dodge dealership. This question comes up about every other month on this forum and others. His answer is one of the best that I have read and it explains the Regen process very will.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/6-7l-engine-transmissions-2007-5/213869-regeneration.html



Jim

 

[RSchwarzli]

I just got my 2011 Ram and I've been out of the diesel world for the last 4 years so I have a lot of catching up to do. My last truck was a 2005 so my 2011 is a whole new critter to me!!! How does one go about getting rid of the whole exhaust system on one of these new trucks? Won't it void my warranty? Surely there is something that can be done. :-{}

Well, it all depends on what you want to do.



First off, it is illegal to tamper with any emissions system on any vehicle. In saying this, that will vary by state.



So you have two options. If you are wanting performance but with leaving the DPF in, contact ATS Diesel or Banks. Both have systems for DPF in and are also working on a performance DPF that works similar to a high flow cat on a gas powered car.



In the event you want to engage in "off road" :-laf use of your truck, removal of DPF is a 1 hour job. Contact companies like H&S Diesel as they offer complete kits that are easy to install



A quick run down on how the DPF functions: You have a little self bake oven under the truck that has a fine filter honeycomb. When soot travels down into it, the particles attach itself to the honeycomb. There are two air pressure lines that monitor DPF flow. One pre and one aft of the DPF. When the sensor (air lines run to side of trans - this also allows time for the air in the tubes to cool) reads a big enough pressure difference, the truck goes into regen mode. This entails raw fuel being injected into the exhaust stroke and it being ignited in the DPF. This burns out the soot. When pressure levels are normal again, the regen cycle is complete.



So back to your question: removal for off roading or if your state allows.



1 - First, take out DPF and replace with strait pipe. Also remove both pressure lines that run to trans mounted sensor.



2 - Unplug EGR valve. I have not played under the hood of a 2010 yet, but if it is the same motor I gather it to be as a 3rd gen 6. 7, just unplug the EGR wire harness. EGR is now disabled 90%.



3 - Technically, your truck will now run DPF free. But the catch is your computer will realize some body parts are missing. It will send fault codes etc that will illuminate the Check Engine Light (CEL). You need a computer/tuner to fool it. Will take about 30 min to download onto your truck computer. The way it works is you plug in a tuner to the OBD port and it will translate the error codes. To put it into english? It gets the code in one ear that says BAD! BAD! MISSING PARTS! FLASH CEL! and says ALL IS GOOD! CARRY ON! out the other. The added bonus is now you also have your tuner so here is to more power!Oo.



As to your last question: Warranty. Yes, removal of DPF, addition of tuner, etc will FOR SURE void your warranty! :{ As durable as our trucks are, they were not designed to run a 200hp/600 tq tuner shot of fuel. The trans will eventaully fail, the clutch will slip if it is a stick, and other parts may break (like diffs, t cases, motor parts). And the dealer cant be expected to cover that as it is outside of what Dodge designed the truck to handle. As for the DPF, yeah, your dealer will have a hard enough time working on it when the tech sees harness' unplugged underhood and a bulk connector plugged into his diagnostic port! Even more fun when he unplugs this as he is clueless to its function and now he is getting codes left, right and center. Even better when he does the newest engine flash from Dodge and the motor now does not run right even when the tuner is plugged back in (the newest Dodge software over writes the tuners data).

I have also heard from others, that due to the extreme cold temps in the interior of Alaska, that DPF and regeneration efforts do not work well. Does anyone else with a 6. 7 have any input on extreme cold and the 6. 7 cummins?

.

The DPF burnout cyle is based on heat. Extreme cold does not make its life easier. The other thing that contributes to extra soot (meaning more of the material that is trying to plug it) is very cold burn temps in the cylinder. Very cold outside temps again do not help here.



The DPF system likes HARD work. Heavy towing, high extended lengths of 1000F pyro runs. Running WOT up a hill with 15K lbs behind you will be much better for your emissions system than sitting there idling (another thing your DPF does not really like).



All this adds uo to a plugged DPF. These trucks are designed to work. Get out there and run the truck hard. That is what it likes.

How often do most of the trucks "regen"? Is this once a month kind of thing or is this a once every 6 months? I assume it depends on how much driving, pulling, and idleing your truck does. How does the Regen work and how long does it take?

First, see above and see the link.



As for the regen, it all depends. If you are doing cross country towing all day every day, not often. Maybe a time or two a day (provided the pryo is running warm enough that it is self baking itslef more or less all day). If you are using it as a daily to commute 10 miles to work so it barely gets up to temp before shutting it off, with extended winter warm up before and after work, you will regen every chance it can get! :-laf



Robert

 

[PLefever]

Howardc, your in gods country, just put the hammer down over to maysville for a pizza that should do the trick. . ha, by the way, are they still runnin speed traps over there?

Where did you buy it? Marc Heitz have been alittle more turn their head the otherway at least at the ford dealer, Battison in Duncan I don't think would turn you in either, its if you travel away from home that could hang a guy.



perry

 

[macdaddy]

So Alaska isnt ever going to be doing smog inspections?



I guess it's easy to put it all back on (emissions crap).



If the EPA is doing it in Colorado im sure it's coming to alaska!



Mac