Running Hot ? what to do ?

[AH64ID]

I have read the OEM fan can move 6K CFM at idle if engaged at 100%, so that number will only go up.



From more reading I have read the fans may advertise at OEM GCWR, but are really only good to about 18K GCWR.

 

[JPul]

One other thought.



The OP does not mention any problems in stop and go, only on long grades at speed. There should be enough airflow at speed to keep things cool without even operating the fan.



One consideration is that the single electric fan appears quite a bit smaller than the original engine driven fan and the rest is shroud. At speed, this larger shroud is reducing effective area of natural airflow through the rad. I see one small rubber flap but possibly some more rubber flaps in other areas of the shroud might improve natural airflow at speed through the rad to reduce the problem.



Again, just a thought



Regards, John

 

[DMorris]

Seems to me the easy solution is go back to a factory engine driven fan. Problem solved. Sell the electric one to the next poor sucker that thinks it will work.

Guess I didnt realize I was a "Poor Sucker". I didnt think you knew me, now I know you dont. Though this truck may put me in the poor house. SRadke- with your sound advice maybe you can tell me where it is I can get the new fan,clutch, and shroud for a good price, and maybe you know "mechanical" sucker that would install it for free for me ?



It was mentioned earlier that I only have problems when pulling long grades and not in town or any other time and that it may be the air flow being restricted by the shroud on my electric fans ? I believe this is possible too ? But I guess it goes back to if I wasnt a "sucker" on buying this electric set up, the original fan would not have this problem. Of course at the rate I was going through electric clutch's on the stocker I would be on number 6 by now. Maybe I just had a couple bad new ones and should have stuck with that, but at the time I was not a TDR member and sought the advice from others who were possible trying to sell me a product.

 

[TCDiesel]

With electric fans the shroud is restrictive when pulling hills or grades. Now all diesels displace 60-70% of the heat created by combustion through the exhaust. When pulling grades more then 4. 5% YOU MUST KEEP YOUR RPMs ABOVE 2000. Low RPMs with boost above 5PSI will create much more heat then 2100 RPMs (or above) with low boost. So try and keep the RPMs above 2100 with low boost. 230* coolant is now problem.



At Current I am in the Rockies,This trip We ran into 30-40MPH head winds with gust 50-60,Pulling My 4 place enclosed Snowmobile trailer,I-90 has some 4. 5-5% grades the temp was 40*,My EGTS 1000-1100 constant for over 150 miles ,My mileage was down to 7MPG, The TPS was showing 65-75% ,the engine load was 60-70% constant My added power was 50-70% on level 4 ,the speedo was set @ 67MPH,My boost was 12-14PSI constant, when climbing grades it reach 34PSI max. My rail pressure was 16-20k constant with peaks 24k... MY RECORD HIGHEST COOLANT TEMP 212*THIS WAS REACH AFTER CLIMBING THE 5. 5% GRADE ON I90 JUST WEST OF MITCHELL SD. Personal side note... Their was a group of snowmobilers running together they passed Us earlier, 1 Cummins Dodge 06, Ford 6. 4 and 1 LBZ GM, when they passes Us they had that big grind on their faces. . My speed was 68MPH they had to be doing 75+ I know this road well ,I Gaged My speed to meet them Mitchell SD,Their faces were somewhat changed when I left them behind at the climb outside of Mitchell,they disappeared in my mirrors,We stop at a rest Area and I top off the factory tank,I seen them go by,then we jump back on the big road I90, low and behold the group was on the shoulder with hood open on the 6. 4 Ford and the Dodge owner had his tarp a tore up... They were driving way to fast and overheated the Ford and tore up the cover on Dodge, The Ford was Puking. . :-laf I see this stupidly all the time on the road.

 

[AH64ID]

With electric fans the shroud is restrictive when pulling hills or grades. Now all diesels displace 60-70% of the heat created by combustion through the exhaust. When pulling grades more then 4. 5% YOU MUST KEEP YOUR RPMs ABOVE 2000. Low RPMs with boost above 5PSI will create much more heat then 2100 RPMs (or above) with low boost. So try and keep the RPMs above 2100 with low boost. 230* coolant is now problem.

I agree compleatly. For the most part I have just started slowing to 60-65 and putting it in 5th rather than pulling at 68-72 in 6th, everything is happer. The other thing about the air is the EGT's and cylinder temps are lower, so the oil coming out of the pistons for cooling is cooler than low rpms (low oil flow) and the same EGT's.



One of the main reasons I am ditching this OEM turbo, it takes more power to push the exhaust out, which costs fuel, EGT's, and power than a comperable aftermarket turbo. Some folks I trust have said that with a modifed stock charger (new turbine, mod exh housing) they picked up 27 rwhp on stock tuning, so that's at least what an aftermaket should do!

 

[MLee]

Find a lower gear to pull the big hills with and keep the rpm's up to circulate the coolant.

How much extra fuel is the Smarty dumpimg? Long pulls with a bit of extra fuel makes them run hotter, so one has to find that spot to maintain the right temp.

 

[rscurtis]

The aftermarket turbo is a big improvement over the stocker. Your HP gain will also be a FE gain.



DMorris, you may want to put a light coating of grease on the fan hub threads so if the day comes when you want to go back to the OEM, you'll still be able to screw it on.

 

[SRadke]

SRadke- with your sound advice maybe you can tell me where it is I can get the new fan,clutch, and shroud for a good price, and maybe you know "mechanical" sucker that would install it for free for me?

You might try these guys:



Atlas Truck Parts - Pick-up truck, van, suv, used and new parts in Hubbard, Oregon