Best u joints?

[cclark746]

I am looking to replace my U joints before a big trip towing. Should I go with the stock ones are is there some nice aftermarket greasable ones available?

Thanks?

 

[wcjp]

Are you talking front or rear driveline? The rear driveline Ujoints are held in place with injected plastic.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Are you talking front or rear driveline? The rear driveline Ujoints are held in place with injected plastic.

That must be the sqeeking I'm hearing in reverse that has the frequency of the driveshaft. I'm at 107,000. All of my U-joints on the truck are still factory but they all need replacing.

What about the front axle U-joints... what should I get?

Please answer the original poster's question first as I'm interested in all of the joints.

 

[cclark746]

Are you talking front or rear driveline? The rear driveline Ujoints are held in place with injected plastic.

Yes I am talking bout the rear, I know about the plastic. Don't you just heat them up with a torch to get them out? I'm looking the best brand, front and rear.

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I know about the plastic. Don't you just heat them up with a torch to get them out?

Yup, the plastic is no big deal, unless you're a caveman mechanic using a hammer and no fire.

 

[Yo Hoot]

What's the procedure? Low Heat? Are there clips?

 

[cclark746]

So any suggestions on what to replace them with?

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

The plastic is in place of the clips. Your new joints will have clips that go in the grooves you cleaned the plastic out of. I'd say use as much heat as you want - the softer the plastic is, the easier it will be to get apart. And you'll need to heat 2 journals at a time, so they need to be hot enough to not cool off while you move the heat between the first and second one. Then use a press, a U-joint press or a vise to disassemble & reassemble. I would never use a hammer, unless I was broke down on the road or in the woods and had no choice.



I don't need joints yet on my Dodge, so I'm looking forward to seeing the recommendations you get.



see ya

kevin



edit - to be clear, the plastic acts as an injected plastic clip. Once you heat it, the joints come apart just like if they had regular spring clips - with a press, etc.

 

[epaolin]

Take measurements, as it is my understanding that there are some different diameter UJ's out there. I think the MegaCab may have the 2-pc driveshaft so you may have a 'carrier bearing' too.

I am using sealed (non-greasable) SPICER UJoints- front wheels, and rear driveshaft. No hammer would have gotten my UJ's out due to the rust: even after much penetrating lube, I had to use a mechanic's hydraulic press. My hobby propane torch was not hot enough to get all the glue out, so the hydraulic press had to work a little harder.

While doing the job, I also removed the front hub-bearing assemblies, and replaced with the greaseable Dynatrak.

George of 8LUG Truck Gear helped me decide and provided all the parts.

--------------
06, quad cab, 4x4, auto, 59k, Frantz for bypass Oil filter, Frantz for pre-Fuel filter, Dynatrak

 

[steved]

Spicer, Precision, or Napa (reboxed Precisions)... and regardless what people may think, any greaseable joint will hold up fine... when was the last time you heard of a joint actually breaking?

 

[rbattelle]

unless you're a caveman mechanic using a hammer and no fire.

That would be me!

Spicer, Precision, or Napa (reboxed Precisions)... and regardless what people may think, any greaseable joint will hold up fine... when was the last time you heard of a joint actually breaking?

Steve makes a good point. I'm a Precision guy myself, but he's right, total ujoint failure is rare. I don't think anyone would disagree with recommending greaseable joints.



I've got Precision 315As in the rear; 464s in the front axles.



-Ryan

 

[cclark746]

Spicer, Precision, or Napa (reboxed Precisions)... and regardless what people may think, any greaseable joint will hold up fine... when was the last time you heard of a joint actually breaking?

Had a friend in his 06 Driving though KS 850 miles away from home pulling a camper felt a vibration before he could stop his truck lost power wouldnt do anything in 2wd or 4wd just trying to get off the road. When dawn came the tailhousing on the transmission was shattered and the transfer case was hanging. The u joint failed while the transmission was under load when it went to no load that caused the tailhousing to shatter. Towed into the local dealership the service guy knew exaxtly what parts to order, because he had seen this several times. 2 grand new front and rear driveshafts and new tailhousing and all new seals 30 hours later back on the road and this was 3 days ago... . that is the last time i heard of a u joint actually failing...



Also I have another friend who works for a Directions Drilling company and there 1 tons spend their whole life hooked to over 20,000 he said he has had the same issues.

 

[Yo Hoot]

How many miles on the truck? If they are bad and they don't get replaced they could fail.

 

[cclark746]

How many miles on the truck? If they are bad and they don't get replaced they could fail.

90,000 on the first truck and they failed right away, the others I speak of not sure of mileage.

 

[steved]

Had a friend in his 06 Driving though KS 850 miles away from home pulling a camper felt a vibration before he could stop his truck lost power wouldnt do anything in 2wd or 4wd just trying to get off the road. When dawn came the tailhousing on the transmission was shattered and the transfer case was hanging. The u joint failed while the transmission was under load when it went to no load that caused the tailhousing to shatter. Towed into the local dealership the service guy knew exaxtly what parts to order, because he had seen this several times. 2 grand new front and rear driveshafts and new tailhousing and all new seals 30 hours later back on the road and this was 3 days ago... . that is the last time i heard of a u joint actually failing...

Also I have another friend who works for a Directions Drilling company and there 1 tons spend their whole life hooked to over 20,000 he said he has had the same issues.

Yeah, his ujoint ran dry of lubrication, causing it to seize (that was the most likely the vibration)... been there done that; but that's NOT a broken ujoint. I had to replace all my ujoint by 75k because they were seizing. And further, I've read of faulty transfercases having the same explosive issue you've described... point being, one may or may not have lead to the other.

My point was that some think the zerk fitting and associated gundrilled cross causes so mush weakness that the joints will literally break or crack... simple answer, it doesn't happen too often in a truck thats driven halfways normal.

Anyone who owns a 3rd gen truck should (on a regular basis) pull the driveshafts and flex the ujoints to ensure they are still smooth, starting about 50k. When I pulled mine, it was to the point I could not flex it by hand... or even locking it in the vice. When I shut down, it literally welded itself together. Sitting installed in the truck, it looked fine.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Well my driveshaft is squeeking and I'm at 107K so I'm doing mine this week.



BTW my drive shaft is original untouched 2004. I see clips.

 

[cclark746]

Yeah, his ujoint ran dry of lubrication, causing it to seize (that was the most likely the vibration)... been there done that; but that's NOT a broken ujoint. I had to replace all my ujoint by 75k because they were seizing. And further, I've read of faulty transfercases having the same explosive issue you've described... point being, one may or may not have lead to the other.



My point was that some think the zerk fitting and associated gundrilled cross causes so mush weakness that the joints will literally break or crack... simple answer, it doesn't happen too often in a truck thats driven halfways normal.



Anyone who owns a 3rd gen truck should (on a regular basis) pull the driveshafts and flex the ujoints to ensure they are still smooth, starting about 50k. When I pulled mine, it was to the point I could not flex it by hand... or even locking it in the vice. When I shut down, it literally welded itself together. Sitting installed in the truck, it looked fine.

It was not physically broken, but to the point of not in good working order, so I consider that broke. You are absolutely correct it seized up. The transfer case was reused and working fine so it only left the seized u joint to blame for the shattered tail housing. I have owned four 3rd gens only this one being auto, all the others required u joint replacement every 30,000 miles on the dot. So, to ease my mind I'm gonna go ahead and replace mine @ 60,000 before I drive 2,500 miles towing. With that being said, I am interested in going with a grease able joint. Prolly the precision brand because I like my local O'Riellys, unless someone steers me else where.

 

[Yo Hoot]

OK how about the front axle joints (4x4). Any help on what joints ... Precision also? How about the job. It seems pretty big. I hear the joints are a bear to get out without damaging the yokes.

 

[steved]

Well my driveshaft is squeeking and I'm at 107K so I'm doing mine this week.



BTW my drive shaft is original untouched 2004. I see clips.

Squeaking is a good indicator... mine squeaked for about 500 miles, then quit. Shortly afterwards is started vibrating, and after getting it home I found the joint welded the next day.



Mine has clips too... that must be something they started later. I know the front Cardan joint has injected plastic retention.

 

[steved]

So, to ease my mind I'm gonna go ahead and replace mine @ 60,000 before I drive 2,500 miles towing. With that being said, I am interested in going with a grease able joint. Prolly the precision brand because I like my local O'Riellys, unless someone steers me else where.

I had greaseable NeapCo's installed in my rear driveshaft at 75k. I didn't mention them because they are hard to find and (at that time) did not offer a direct replacement for our truck. The shop actually had to grind the retention clips down thin to make them work.



I now sit at 245k, on those same NeapCo greaseable joints... I don't think there is much quality difference between NeapCo, Spicer, Precision, or other name brands; but the main significance is that they can be regularly greased.



On that note, use the BEST grease you can buy... I personally use Schaeffer #274 with outstanding results. I have used both Tractor Supply's Premium Grease and Lucas, they are both inferior products IMHO letting in water (balljoints) and not staying in ujoints. I can put two to three pumps in my ujoints using Schaeffer and have grease showing at the seals... it would take ten plus pumps of the other greases before that would happen (and the grease expelled would look horrible). I would probably use Mobil 1 or Pennzoil 707L if I didn't buy bulk from Schaeffers.