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injector life expectancy

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2000 Dodge 2500 TD

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just busted 100k in my 06 and hear of people changing common rail injectors around now, how long can i expect to run them with no issues and what will happen when they begine to wear or fail? would like to get a set of 50horse (mileage)tips but would that be a waste on 100k injectors? i know the F1 nozzels you send your injectors in to be instal nozzels and to be tested and repairs if needed, would that be just as good a new? as far as price goes you can get a set of nozzels from industrial injection for 720$ compared to the F1's that are around 1,100 but hear that it is a great product.
 
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If your not running pressure box's and you've got clean fuel all the time then they should go for many more miles. When mine ever start failing, I'm going for the 25-35 HP tips because they get even better mileage and I really don't want any more power. .
 
you need better fuel filtering than the stock filter can give. at the end here i will copy a reply i made to someone. your 06 has in-cylinder egr and you can get rid of most of it by changing to the 50 hp nozzles and changing the cam to a pdr or colt and getting a smarty jr . set the jr on default tow . do the nozzles and cam at the same time to save half of the labor. this will give 40% increase in mpg and reduce egt by 300* if you put the filter on now you should be ok with just nozzles. look at ddp nozzles.

we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.



the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5. 9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to -- email address removed -- and i will send pix and instructions

these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.

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I know of an RV hauler who finally changed his original injectors after 650k km ( over 400k miles ) but his truck is always loaded and on the highway. Since these inj aren't cheap I wouldn't change them unless necessary. Shadrach
 
My 06 has 204K. I think I can safeley about 90-95% is with towing a trailer. I have the original injectors and still have the oem brakepads. Hope I don't jinx myself saying this.

Okie
 
Killed CR Injector Rates #1 Water, #2 Pressure (Excessive pressure), #3 Hard material #4 Poor Lubrication.



You say #4 poor lubrication is that lube from fuel or do these injectors use engine oil as part of their lubrication? I have know Idea about these electronic injectors
 
Fuel... ... If Fuel sits around for months on end its property will separate.



Well then I think I have it pretty much covered I have a Baldwin 1212 WS/FILTER before the AD100 pump/ws/filter then an Cat 2mic before the CP3 I use Amalgamated snake oil / no black box stock HP. Thanks for the info
 
I have 170k on mine. Stock filter system, but running the fleetguard filters from Geno's. I do run a TST box, but no pressure increases.
 
I am changing mine in a couple weeks at 224k. Stock motor except air intake. I have a cold start problem but other than that the truck runs fine. I won't be able to tell if the new injectors fix the problem until it gets cold again. Fingers are crossed. :)
 
In regard to my post above, I have also ran Biodiesel in it, when I could find it at a local station, B5 is all they had, and once ran 4. 5 gal of straight peanut oil. No ill effects thousands of miles later.
 
I have just over 114K on mine and purchased the truck new in August, 2004.

Right off the bat, I purchased a Banks 6-gun w/speed loader and was in heaven. I ran the Banks till 72K miles and mostly had it on 3; when playing, I'd put it on 5 or 6. From 72K till now, I've ran a Smarty S0-6 on setting 5.

I also have the GDP's 2 micron filter kit installed.

Over the last couple of months and 2K miles, my truck would idle erratically every now and then and puff blue smoke on start-up; at times worse than others. After much research, I settled on changing out the injectors.

After reading issue 72 Technical Topics (injectors) by Joe Donnelly, I decided to purchase a set of DDP stage 1's and have them installed. I wanted to get more of a mechanical increase in power and hopefully some mileage increases as a side effect.

I've driven the truck two days now and have noticed that it runs very nice, definitely more power than stock. I'm NOT running the Smarty now and may decide to sell it.

What I have noticed though is that the EGT's are higher.

Basically, what many guys here say is that if you leave your truck stock, you should get plenty of miles out of your injectors. Run power enhancements, and you run the risk of pre-mature injector failure.

Oh, and on edit, the cost of replacing them WASN'T AT ALL worth the "fun" I had with the truck. Money would have been better spent elsewhere.
 
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I think it's the luck of the draw... . I run a stock truck and I had a nozzle crack. I also run the mopar extream service filtration kit. I replaced all 6 at 127,000. My friend does not run extra filtration and he has run the smarty tuner kit he's got over 160,000 on his and it still runs nice... .
 
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