Think twice before getting a one piece driveshaft....

[Herman8r]

Tom--I don't know if I have a G56.

Does the one pc shaft make that much difference to spend the $$$$ to replace it?



2008 replacement or custom build?? is there a big difference?

 

[tkerrigan]

If it's 2006 and manual, it's a G56. I will post the receipt for the drive line in a bit. It's definitely worth it. Tom

 

[Herman8r]

2006--auto trans

Thanks Tom

 

[tkerrigan]

Here it is, I think.

 

[tkerrigan]

This drive line is only for manual transmission, auto takes different part number.



Tom

 

[Herman8r]

thanks--is it steel or alum?

 

[tkerrigan]

Maybe this will help



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tkerrigan



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F-15I Ra'am



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Thumbs up One Piece Driveshaft

Guess I get to be the test-mule for this. Just installed a one piece drive shaft for an 08' Megacab on my 06' 4x4,auto,Megacab. Truck has a little over 92k on it and was about due for u-joints. Figured I'd eliminate one u-joint and the carrier bearing. Part# 52123220-AB list: $602, got it for: $430 plus shipping from MOPAR4LESS. Tools needed: ratchet, couple extensions, 15mm socket, cheater- pipe. Make sure to block your tires. Also remove {4 bolts} and leave off the bracket that holds the carrier bearing to the frame. Took it out on the highway, hit the speed limiter a couple of times { Smarty Jr. on level 2 }. Everything is fine! Gotta haul some calves to Dalhart or Clovis in the next couple of weeks. I will keep everyone posted on it.

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Tom Kerrigan



Oct '90 thru Aug '04 '91 W250 5SP

Aug 04 2004. 5 4WD SRW QC LB 6SP 3. 73 Almond Pearl Laramie, Rhino liner, Lund running boards, Buckstops, B&W gooseneck & 5wh hitch, B&D exhaust brake, Dtrac freespin kit, air bags w/pump

Member TDR '96 thru '02, Again in '03.

 

[tkerrigan]

It's aluminum, you will have to figure out if a mega cab driveshaft will fit your quad cab for length. You should be able to find more information by doing a forum search on the above part number.

 

[Herman8r]

that's some great info!!!



Thanks

 

[seafish]

Thanks Tom...

 

[BIGNASTY]

Just thinking out loud. On a 2wd I can see that there might be no problem. With a 4x4 crawling over rocks it puts the rearend in weird angles and you still have no problems? The reason I ask is the wife's conversion is a Chevy 4x4 might someday go to a one piece

 

[Prairie Dog]

If you get the dodge late 2008 dodge drive shaft, remember they are rated to tow more than ours. I towed my 13,000 lb sunnybrook to Las Vegas and back and it was a pleasure. The outfit that shortened my drive line also recommended using the nonlubeable joints also. They also recommended not changing them myself. They rebalance each time and the glue in type must be used. If your truck has a G56 it doesn't need shortened. The 5600's are longer than the G56. Tom

I agree with all the above. I talked to all the driveline places in my area and my mechanic freind with his own bussiness of 25 years. He and and the DL places all said the same thing in that the non-greaseable types are the way to go and in many cases there's no choice to get an exact fit. I really had a hard time believing this but my DC 1 pc is a quality part. The joints are much bigger and the aluminum shaft is 5" in diameter.

FWIW, the joints are glued in from the factory but there is also a groove so they can be replaced or reinstalled with just a retaining ring - as one end of mine was after the shaft was shortened and rebalanced.

 

[BIGNASTY]

I agree with all the above. I talked to all the driveline places in my area and my mechanic freind with his own bussiness of 25 years. He and and the DL places all said the same thing in that the non-greaseable types are the way to go and in many cases there's no choice to get an exact fit. I really had a hard time believing this but my DC 1 pc is a quality part. The joints are much bigger and the aluminum shaft is 5" in diameter.

FWIW, the joints are glued in from the factory but there is also a groove so they can be replaced or reinstalled with just a retaining ring - as one end of mine was after the shaft was shortened and rebalanced.

Sure dont use the U joint that can be lubed and have been in use for many years. Use the ones that wear out faster and YOU cant replace them WE have to do it for some unkown reason. I hope I didnt do anything wrong with taking my non lube joints out and installing lube joints in MY SHOP. except save some money

 

[Prairie Dog]

Well, like I said, I felt the same way but I know there are experts out there that have knowledge of more modern materials and practices. I'm still not sure it's all true but I'm open to new things so we'll see. Besides,I'm tired of working on stuff in my shop and when it comes to stuff like this, I'm not going to sweat it.

 

[Nyoest]

Sure dont use the U joint that can be lubed and have been in use for many years. Use the ones that wear out faster and YOU cant replace them WE have to do it for some unkown reason. I hope I didnt do anything wrong with taking my none lube joints out and installing lube joints in MY SHOP. except save some money

The nongreasble joints have a thicker cross and better seals on the caps. When you grease the cheap style joints if one bit of grease dribbles out you just overgreased it. You also distorted the seal and made it easier for grease to escape the joint and debris and grit to get into the joint. This really seems to show up on front axles. You will put in three greaseable joints to one sealed joint dang near all the time. YMMV.

 

[BIGNASTY]

I understand the concept of over greasing but as far as thicker ??????????? REALLY? I dont think that much of a difference is going to be a big deal. I dont have a 4x4 DOdge mine is drive shaft u joints only. The Chevy conversion has axle grease type u joints I dont know how long they have been on (looks like a LONG TIME)I will just keep grease in them and hope for the best

 

[rscurtis]

Any true commercial vehicle that I have owned (International, Iveco, Mitsubishi Fuso) has always had a fully greasable driveline. I also had an '88 E350, the original joints didn't make 40K miles, the replacement greasables were still going strong at 97K miles- and these joints were tiny compared to what our trucks are using today.

 

[BIGNASTY]

I didnt think of my Inter-trash-inal its been awhile but I know they have grease ports they are 1750???? u joints dont think the big trucks have grease type because they DONT LAST

 

[S.Morris]

Greasing a greasable joint with a good quality on a regular basis and shortly after any water/offroad work will result in MUCH longer service life.



I have never yet seen a sealed unit last longer than a greaseable one if the greaseable one is serviced regularly. However, if the greasable one is never greased I agree that it will not last as long as the non greasable ones.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Greasing a greasable joint with a good quality on a regular basis and shortly after any water/offroad work will result in MUCH longer service life.



I have never yet seen a sealed unit last longer than a greaseable one if the greaseable one is serviced regularly. However, if the greasable one is never greased I agree that it will not last as long as the non greasable ones.

Thank you, you are now officially on my Christmas Card mailing list.