Getting Ready for 50K Trans. Service... Advice

[Wingate]

Well, its getting above 45K on the old goat... Trans is due for service and I'm looking for ideas/advice.

Only problems I currently have is the typical 1-2 shuttle shift at low loads.

I know I need to adjsut the bands and will take care of that. . I tow about 10K a couple times a month. Every great once awhile I tow 20K with it.

Would like to fix the 1-2 hunt, adjust the bands. . fluid and filter. . Is there anything else? Would an aftermarket valve body be worth the $$$. . Would it give significant improvement?

Whats the best way to fix the 1-2 hunt? More factory parts? Is there an aftermarket fix thats better?

Question for those running a deep pan, do you really see a trans. temp drop??

 

[KLauber]

AMsoil of course! AMSOIL - Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

Amsoil'd (engine, trans, rear) vehicles can get as much as 6% better fuel mileage. Maybe better?

 

[cerberusiam]

Gov pressure transducer and solenoid as minimum should be replaced. Likely a good part of the shuttle shift problem.



Definitely verify band adjustment so you know where you are.



Deep pan is going to give you nothing at this point.



A shift kit and the minimum billet internal parts would be a good idea.



A good TC will make a bigger difference but thats more intrusive. The other pieces above can be done without dropping the trans.



ATF+4 is the best bang for the buck and as good a fluid there is available.

 

[Wingate]

Gov pressure transducer and solenoid as minimum should be replaced. Likely a good part of the shuttle shift problem.



Definitely verify band adjustment so you know where you are.



Deep pan is going to give you nothing at this point.



A shift kit and the minimum billet internal parts would be a good idea.



A good TC will make a bigger difference but thats more intrusive. The other pieces above can be done without dropping the trans.



ATF+4 is the best bang for the buck and as good a fluid there is available.

So the factory parts started acting up at 15-20K miles, are the replacement factory parts updated? Seems as though I have heard there is a GM conversion for this? Is it any better, or just more of the same? What brand of shift kits are available? I wonder if it would help the "studder" I have always had when in Tow/Haul and shifting from 3rd to OD to L/U???

I plan on doing just the normal stuff until the trans. starts failing. At that point, its going in a crate and being shipped to Goerend for complete bullet-proofing. I cannot stand having plenty of power, but being afraid to use it for fear of trashing the trans. and I believe Goerend can fix that.

Plan on re-filling with Valvoline ATF...

KLauber, not interested in Amsoil products.

 

[cerberusiam]

Well, you did say it was over 45k and due for maintenance. Made it sound like it was its first.



Usually about 40k and the OE solenoid starts going bad. No guarantee it won't go before because it really is undersized and cheap.



The GM conversion will give you a much longer lifed solenoid for sure. Borg also has one that is supposed to be better than OE that will fit the factory spot.



No cure for the transducer which can be as finicky as the solenoid. Bad out of the box at times, and just not last long.



There are several decent hsif tkits that vary from easy to involved. Biggest thing to knwo is what to do in addition to the shift kit to address the factory failure points.



If you have a shudder in TH on the 3-4 shift\lock strategy you already have issues with the TC clutch. One the failure points.

 

[Wingate]

Well, you did say it was over 45k and due for maintenance. Made it sound like it was its first.







If you have a shudder in TH on the 3-4 shift\lock strategy you already have issues with the TC clutch. One the failure points.

Yep, its going to be the first time the pan has been off.



I remember a day when you didnt change the trans fluid... . lol

Just checked out the Borg parts, $130. 00 for solenoid and sensor... sounds like a way to go as I have very little faith that the OE part will do anything different than the current one I have. .

 

[KLauber]

No problem

So the factory parts started acting up at 15-20K miles, are the replacement factory parts updated? Seems as though I have heard there is a GM conversion for this? Is it any better, or just more of the same? What brand of shift kits are available? I wonder if it would help the "studder" I have always had when in Tow/Haul and shifting from 3rd to OD to L/U???

I plan on doing just the normal stuff until the trans. starts failing. At that point, its going in a crate and being shipped to Goerend for complete bullet-proofing. I cannot stand having plenty of power, but being afraid to use it for fear of trashing the trans. and I believe Goerend can fix that.

Plan on re-filling with Valvoline ATF...

KLauber, not interested in Amsoil products.

I stand behind all the exceptional products I sell and provide the utmost in customer service. Our synthetic fluids exceed all the manufacturers specifications and change interval recommendations. Our Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is superior to any petroleum based fluid and its used in my G56 manual transmission as well. Just like Amsoil synthetic engine oil, the cost per mile is likely half as much as dino fluids. Valvoline ATF is ok until it breaks down in less than half as many miles as Amsoil. If you're going to spend a lot of money to rebuild the trans, why would you put cheap old style fluid back in it?

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, its going to be the first time the pan has been off.



I remember a day when you didnt change the trans fluid... . lol

Just checked out the Borg parts, $130. 00 for solenoid and sensor... sounds like a way to go as I have very little faith that the OE part will do anything different than the current one I have. .

Misunderstood what you were trying to say, now I get it. Yes, it is not unusual to see the flakiness with as little as 20k.



The OE parts are really short life, I am using the GM Borg solenoid on mine with good results. A lot depends on other things like tuners also but for the most part the GM conversion should be good forever.



I wasnb't going to point it out but the recommended change interval is 20k for the trans fluid. There is a reason, the additives that enhance the fluid get cooked out at about that time frame.

Our Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is superior to any petroleum based fluid Valvoline ATF is ok until it breaks down in less than half as many miles as Amsoil. If you're going to spend a lot of money to rebuild the trans, why would you put cheap old style fluid back in it?

. . and it still does not meet ATF+4 spec and it costs twice as much as ATF+4. The only way Amsoil is cost effective is if one is going over 50k per year and one can trust the fluid is not breaking down. Since it doesn't meet spec to start with, doubtful age is going to change that.



Bottom line is one does not want to go extended intervals with a OE trans build. They make too much metal and friction material that gets suspended in the fluid. The longer you run it more it cuts the seals and wears the hard parts.



ATF+4 is group 3 synthetic, normally grouped with the full synthetics because of its composition. It is definitely not the "same old fluid" being portrayed here. Everyone should find\buy the test results on the development of ATF+4, quite interesting and eye opening.

 

[Wingate]

I stand behind all the exceptional products I sell and provide the utmost in customer service. Our synthetic fluids exceed all the manufacturers specifications and change interval recommendations. Our Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is superior to any petroleum based fluid and its used in my G56 manual transmission as well. Just like Amsoil synthetic engine oil, the cost per mile is likely half as much as dino fluids. Valvoline ATF is ok until it breaks down in less than half as many miles as Amsoil. If you're going to spend a lot of money to rebuild the trans, why would you put cheap old style fluid back in it?

KLauber,

I understand you sell this product... and Im sure there are many believers in Amsoil products, but...

I am not interested in Amsoil products, please do not make this another "Amsoil vs. the world thread" I am not interested and never will be.

I am just trying to get some info on what components I need to have onhand when I service my transmission.

There are some very knowledgable guys on here that have already been thru what I am fixing to do with my trans. , so drawing on that knowledge is what Im after, not another oil war... Thanks.

 

[KLauber]

KLauber,

I understand you sell this product... and Im sure there are many believers in Amsoil products, but...

I am not interested in Amsoil products, please do not make this another "Amsoil vs. the world thread" I am not interested and never will be.

I am just trying to get some info on what components I need to have onhand when I service my transmission.

There are some very knowledgable guys on here that have already been thru what I am fixing to do with my trans. , so drawing on that knowledge is what Im after, not another oil war... Thanks.

Wingate, thanks for the courteous reply. I've little knowledge about the inner workings of the 48RE. I had one for over 95K (from 90K to 185K) before I had it rebuilt by a local expert. We put Amsoil into it because the builder required it due to its superiority as a transmission fluid. He had white hair, a thick SA accent and had been building transmissions for 50 years, so I went with his expertise.

 

[KLauber]

Last word I swear!! Really!

. . and it still does not meet ATF+4 spec and it costs twice as much as ATF+4. The only way Amsoil is cost effective is if one is going over 50k per year and one can trust the fluid is not breaking down. Since it doesn't meet spec to start with, doubtful age is going to change that.



Bottom line is one does not want to go extended intervals with a OE trans build. They make too much metal and friction material that gets suspended in the fluid. The longer you run it more it cuts the seals and wears the hard parts.



ATF+4 is group 3 synthetic, normally grouped with the full synthetics because of its composition. It is definitely not the "same old fluid" being portrayed here. Everyone should find\buy the test results on the development of ATF+4, quite interesting and eye opening.

Amsoil apparently won't ever pay the license fee to Chrysler to get ATF+4 designation which I read somewhere on TDR I think. I read on another forum that fully synthetic Amsoil cant meet the ATF+4 because its fully synthetic. Oh the things you read on the internet! Here's what the corporation says: "AMSOIL first introduced a synthetic automatic transmission fluid in 1980 and remains the leader in transmission fluid quality. AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF is formulated with the highest-quality synthetic fluids and additives. It exceeds the most stringent industry standards and is recommended for a wide range of transmissions. AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF reduces confusion, misapplications and inventories. It eliminates the need for costly and suspect “one-treatment-covers-all” additives. The quality and performance of AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF is guaranteed. " Oh yeah!

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

Use the oem filter for a 96 ctd. It's the same screw pattern and same media but almost twice the surface area.

 

[MChrist]

I have no valuable input on ATF, other than to say that when Dave Goerend built up my trans, he used ATF+3, then an additive to be comparable to ATF+4. I asked about putting fancy stuff in, and he said he doesn't do that, and that the +3 with the additive was all I needed, and was much less expensive. That was about 4 years ago. It's been serviced at Dodge with +4 in the meantime.
I'm NOT saying synthetics are snake oil, ( I actually use them quite a bit), just relaying my (limited) experience with ATF.

 

[rscurtis]

I just looked at my container of Amsoil universal ATF and it states it is a suitable replacement for Chrysler ATF+ thru ATF+4. When I started using it in my signature truck, the transmission temperature on the X Monitor dropped about 10* from the factory fill.

 

[Wingate]

Use the oem filter for a 96 ctd. It's the same screw pattern and same media but almost twice the surface area.

Thats a good piece of info right there... Wonder why they went to a different filter?

Seems like I read somewhere about one filter vs. another. . but it seems like it was a comparison between the stock filter and another version that had a "shroud" or something like that. .

Is it JUST a 96 model? or are there several years of filters... I may try and dig around on Napa Auto parts and see what comes up... . .

Thanks!!

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

96,97,98. You don't want the one in the plastic box. The media inside the obx is smaller than the open kind and the box is slightly restrictive in itself. The 96 etc filters have almosy double the filter surface area as the stock ones for our trucks.

 

[Wingate]

96,97,98. You don't want the one in the plastic box. The media inside the obx is smaller than the open kind and the box is slightly restrictive in itself. The 96 etc filters have almosy double the filter surface area as the stock ones for our trucks.

gotcha... thanks for the info... !!

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

You bet. glad I could help

 

[Wingate]

ok... FINALLY got a chance to order my parts. .

Found them at this place.

Transtar Industries, Inc. - Transmission Parts - Products

Ordered them today, suppose to get them tomorrow, gonna change it all out on Saturday morning.

Timelessconstructionllc, when I asked about the older filter, the guy where I ordered my parts knew exactly what you were talking about and also suggested the same.

Anyone know how much ATF the transfer case takes... Im sure Its in my owners manual, but the lazy side of me thought I would ask.

 

[JBallou]

T-case takes roughly 2 quarts.