Belt Changing.

[ACerf]

I am wanting to change the belt and I know that I saw in one of the issues of TDR on how to do that, but which one? I am concerned about the tension/Idler pulley, as far as getting it back to the right place and not being to tight or loose. I should possibly replace the pulley bearing since the truck as 136K on it, or should I? Thanks.

 

[EDankievitch]

Tentioner can only go on in one position. Can't hurt to replace it Geno's has the Gates asy it has a steel pulley, seems to be lasting on my 05 though I can't say the same for the Gates waterpump it failed at 60,000 miles.

 

[RPosey]

1/2" rachet with a 3/8 - 1/2 adapter, you can only pull one way, you will know which way.

 

[CPittman]

Use a 1/2" breaker bar and insert it into the 1/2" drive receiver hole that is cast into the tensioner arm. If you want to make it really easy, use a 2' cheater pipe on the end of your breaker bar; not because you need to break anything loose but because it makes holding the tensioner assembly in its slack position easier while you thread the new belt on.



The absolute best trick I can tell you is to thread your new belt onto all of the pulleys from up top, and save the air conditioner pulley for the last one. That way you are under the truck holding the tensioner in it full slack position while you just slip the belt onto the AC pulley last. One of the best tricks I've ever read on TDR.



If it were me, and if you know the history of the truck, I wouldn't change the tensioner pulley, or the tensioner assembly until around 250K miles. Unless, of course, you can see that the plastic stock pulley is wearing badly on one side, or if your belt is jumping a rib and peeling off an outer rib.



If you do decide to change the tensioner you need to know that the stock bolt into the block has thread locker on it so it take a fair amount of nice, slow torque to convince it to back off. Also, once you get it off you'll see a boss on the back side of the casting. Make sure you get this boss back into the hole on the engine block and seated correctly before you button it back up or you'll have the tensioner all cock-eyed.

 

[ACerf]

Tentioner can only go on in one position. Can't hurt to replace it Geno's has the Gates asy it has a steel pulley, seems to be lasting on my 05 though I can't say the same for the Gates waterpump it failed at 60,000 miles.

Don't even mention the word WaterPump! I had the first one go out at 60K in Nashville. The second one was at 115K in Phrump NV. (the home of TDR rallies). Both were Mopar pumps and I got screwed on the second pump, but I was away from home and we were traveling.

 

[ACerf]

Thanks guys, some really good advice! Oo.

 

[steved]

Don't forget to inspect the big idler pulley at the top of the engine...



I found both idlers slightly loose around 200k and replaced them... I kept the old ones for spares.

 

[BigPapa]

If you don't have a belt routing diagram, I suggest sketching one for yourself before removing the old belt since the 3rd Gen's don't seem to have one under the hood.



FWIW - I just put a new belt on mine while I had the engine out. The one I removed had over 200K on it. It's still in decent shape.



Scott

 

[rscurtis]

My signature truck has a routing diagram for both the 5. 9 and the V-10. I've never seen a third gen. with the V-10. Perhaps this was a left over decal from the second gen. trucks that was used on early third gen. trucks.

 

[ACerf]

My signature truck has a routing diagram for both the 5. 9 and the V-10. I've never seen a third gen. with the V-10. Perhaps this was a left over decal from the second gen. trucks that was used on early third gen. trucks.

I have the Routing Diagram for both the V-10 and the 5. 9. It is attached to the Radiator support bar.

 

[ACerf]

What is funny is that I checked the depth of old belt to the new one, and the old belt was deeper! It did not appear to have any cracking and the edges were in good shape, and that is after 136,000 Miles. I am not sure I should even bother with it at this time.

 

[Bill Weber]

Last year we were taking a trip to Alaska (10,000 miles). 135 K on truck. Flushed cooling system, new water pump, hoses, thermostat, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, belt, alternator, and new batteries. All except the alternator & batts seemed in good shape. But, you can never tell when a bearing or pump is going to go out. O'kill? Sure. But I didn't worry about those things while driving through the western US, Canada & Alaska where there is minimal or no phone service. Bill

 

[steved]

Deeper the grooves are worn into the belt, the less grip the belt will have... it grips the sides of the groves, if it bottoms in the grooves, its worn out.

 

[Rascal]

For your first time, have pleanty of time and have alot of PATIENCE.

 

[ScottLewis]

I removed the Jake pump belt yesterday and replaced it with the non-brake stock belt. It's a pain to get the belt around all the pulleys and having a friend there for help(and moral support) is a big plus. Pay attention to how the old belt comes off and reverse the process going back. The manual says to replace the water pump pulley last with the tensioner held out with a 1/2 drive breaker. Definitely take your time and get it right before starting up.

 

[R. Weber]

Would anyone be able to direct me to the issue of TDR that had information on changing the drive belt. I have two 2005 Rams, a 2500 and a 3500. Thank you in advance for your help and input.

 

[WalterJ]

Use a 1/2" breaker bar and insert it into the 1/2" drive receiver hole that is cast into the tensioner arm. If you want to make it really easy, use a 2' cheater pipe on the end of your breaker bar; not because you need to break anything loose but because it makes holding the tensioner assembly in its slack position easier while you thread the new belt on.



The absolute best trick I can tell you is to thread your new belt onto all of the pulleys from up top, and save the air conditioner pulley for the last one. That way you are under the truck holding the tensioner in it full slack position while you just slip the belt onto the AC pulley last. One of the best tricks I've ever read on TDR.



If it were me, and if you know the history of the truck, I wouldn't change the tensioner pulley, or the tensioner assembly until around 250K miles. Unless, of course, you can see that the plastic stock pulley is wearing badly on one side, or if your belt is jumping a rib and peeling off an outer rib.



If you do decide to change the tensioner you need to know that the stock bolt into the block has thread locker on it so it take a fair amount of nice, slow torque to convince it to back off. Also, once you get it off you'll see a boss on the back side of the casting. Make sure you get this boss back into the hole on the engine block and seated correctly before you button it back up or you'll have the tensioner all cock-eyed.

Your thoughts please: My terrible under hood squeal was a new (8 month) NAPA Premium Gates belt, that proved to be too hard to run the flat side upon the fan & pump pulleys. No doubt it would last 100K miles, but my old, albeit softer, spare did the trick. It chirped loudly during shutdown; no over-running AC clutch. Alls quiet now. However...

thank goodness I had installed replacement Crank Vibration Damper p/n #ATI-917374, MANUF # 917374, o.d.=7.8", 3 O-Ring shell designed for easy "rebuilding/repair"; smaller than OEM Dia designed to permit changing serpentine belt without removing damper!

...and we found belt could not be removed past the tensioner pulley without loosening it substantially. What up with that? OEM tensioner replaced 2 yrs ago, so only replacements are goofy or OEM's too? My pdf manual does NOT allude to loosening the tensioner pulley to provide clearance for belt removal! What pray tell am I missing?