Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Rotella T 15w-40 in a 2001

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I guess you did not read the articles carefully (54 through 58). But then again you refer to almost 4 year old information. Martin rated Amsoil ahead of the Walmart brand which is made not by Walmart. Of course the Amsoil is made by Amsoil. And both Martin and Patton recommend oil analysis to extend change frequency, which I do also. By the way, you waste your money on Walmart brand, not on Amsoil. $250 per 25K miles (Walmart) vs $150 per 25K miles (Amsoil).



Forget all this oil stuff! We got two libs here in a pissin' contest over a quart of oil..... funny stuff. :-laf:-laf



Sam
 
I guess you did not read the articles carefully (54 through 58). But then again you refer to almost 4 year old information. Martin rated Amsoil ahead of the Walmart brand which is made not by Walmart.
I would guess that the "best" CI-4+ oils in the article are gone now. It would be interesting to see what the "new" oils are like. Maybe I should sample my locally available oils to find my local best. Or maybe I should buy the cheapest and add a detergent additive.



One of the problems with store brands like Wal-Mart is they buy from the low cost supplier and that may change with every contract. Maybe every region too.
 
My truck has only seen Rotella since its first oil change, and it just got a perfect score on its latest analysis from Blackstone. I have no interest in synthetic or extended change intervals while I'm running WVO, so I'll stick with what has proven to work well for me.
 
15-40 Rotella T always every 4500 miles. No problems Dont understand the fuss about CJ CI C4. Clean fresh oil is always better. Moe



EXACTLY! I have run Rotella 15W-40 in the old '95 from new to 2000 and in the '01 from new through now. Never had any issues, changed the oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles.



ON SECOND THOUGHT, the timing housing dowel pin fell out of my '95 (YES, THE KILLER DOWEL PIN) so maybe the Rotella is TOO SLICK! LOL!
 
KKnoedler

I use Mobil Delvac MX CI-4+ 15W-40 or Brad Penn CI-4+ 15W-40. Both must be purchased from a lube oil distributor. The manufacturer's website will direct you to the nearest distributor. Brad Penn is the old Kendall refinery in Bradford, Pa. After Kendall moved to Houston, the employees bought the refinery. They are very highly regarded in racing circles.

Some of the differences between CI-4+ and CJ-4 are Total Base Number and zinc content. My engine was designed to run on CG. In my mind, CI-4+ is the only true backward compatible oil to CG.
 
My 98. 5 hasn't complained on either oil in its' diet.

Usually Delo 400 15w40, but 2 changes ago it slurped on Rotella because that was what my guy uses.

Then when I had the truck in the Dodge shop to fix a leaky transmission and PTO, they sold me a free 2 year oil change for $99 bux or something like that. So what's in there now?

dunno, but it meets OEM specs. :-laf:-laf
 
For 800k miles I changed oil every 5000 to 6000 miles with whatever was the lowest cost 15W40 I could find. I once found Delo at Wal-Mart for $6 a gallon. I went to every store in a 30 mile radius and ended up with 52 gallons. Flying J once had a two for one sale on Valvoline Premium Blue. I bought 10 cases, that was all they had in Waco. Other than that I used all the brands, including the Wal-Mart brand. When I tore the engine down, one of the rod bearings had copper peeking out. I wonder which oil was the culprit:-laf



My belief is we change the oil to drain out the acids and other contaminants that are too small for the filter to catch. I always use Fleetguard Stratopore. I did a little stubby pencil work and found that going with synthetic, but changing the filter and paying for a sample every 5000 was nearly as expensive as just changing the oil. When I added in the cost of a bypass filter, I could never find a break even point. Besides that, when you drive 4000 to 5000 miles a week, the sample results are way behind.
 
It really does not matter who makes the oil as long as it is API approved for CJ-4,CI-4+. Conventional or Synthetic does not make a difference "oil changes".



Changing your oil depends on the TBN number or life left in the oil. By sending a sample to a place like Blackstone Laboratory and request the TBN analysis, they can tell you to change your oil or not.



Some results for Duramax that requires Rotella T (conventional oil) have it at 11,500 miles.



For me if it looks dirty then I change the filter.
 
I have used rotella for years, and now i use valv premium blue, rotella has a funny smell, but im sure old vehicles were taken into consideration when formulating new motor oils. , havent heard of anyone blowing up because it wasnt ci vs cj. just my op.
 
Originally Posted by JLandry -

Ken,

Your veiled advertisements for a product you're selling are tiptoeing awful close to violating the TDR user guidelines.

I'll stick with Dodge's recommendations thank you very much.

John L.



Take it up with the site admin, then.



Oh never you fear, I just did exactly that Ken.

You are pushing over the limits hawking the Amsoil products. I won't comment on its' worth... #@$%!

What you and other Amsoil dealers do is beyond reproach. you make us sick of the stuff, I will not buy any Amsoil product just as a matter of principal because of the audacity of folks like you who think you know it all. #@$%!




you make me want to vomit, now back off and leave it alone. Talk about anything else but Amsoil.
 
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Oh never you fear, I just did exactly that Ken.

You are pushing over the limits hawking the Amsoil products. I won't comment on its' worth... #@$%!

What you and other Amsoil dealers do is beyond reproach. you make us sick of the stuff, I will not buy any Amsoil product just as a matter of principal because of the audacity of folks like you who think you know it all. #@$%!




you make me want to vomit, now back off and leave it alone. Talk about anything else but Amsoil.

Yup, I agree. It's about time someone dropped a note to TDR admin about Klabber peddling his products here.

I have never wanted any Amway crap anyway but after years of seeing it hawked here by the sellers I wouldn't take a free quart of it to start a fire in my burn pit.
 
It really does not matter who makes the oil as long as it is API approved for CJ-4,CI-4+. Conventional or Synthetic does not make a difference "oil changes".



Changing your oil depends on the TBN number or life left in the oil. By sending a sample to a place like Blackstone Laboratory and request the TBN analysis, they can tell you to change your oil or not.



Some results for Duramax that requires Rotella T (conventional oil) have it at 11,500 miles.



For me if it looks dirty then I change the filter.



When you change your filter, does the oil clean up?

Its hard for me to believe that dirty black oil is still good.
 
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