Att: Diesel Techs

[gtoli]

Need a little turbo help.



If I remove the VGT motor from my 2010 turbo can I check slide sleeve movement by manipulating the geared end of the shaft?



I am getting P2262 and P2563 codes and wanted to try to check movent of the sleeve before going further and possibly paying for a new turbo.



I won't hold you to a professional standard, as I'm askimg for free advice. Any help is appreciated.



Gene

 

[RonD]

Why are you messing with it ?, just drive into a Dodge Dealer, that is what the warranty is for I thought, you stock in your sig.

 

[sag2]

To answer your question, yes. But before you do it a couple of cautions. One DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES UNTIL YOUR DONE. Drain coolant because when you pull the actuator you will loose coolant. When you pull the actuator, unbolt it and slide it very carefully off the actuator shaft. It is a rack and pinion, the motor assembly has the round gear, the actuator lever has the rack gear. Do not twist or move the motor when you pull it straight out. Now mark/measure (without moving it) the location of the lever so you can mate it back to the motor in exactly the same spot. If it moves there is a calibration procedure the dealer can do with the scan tool, but it does not always work, and if it doesn't. you get to buy a new turbo. It is not difficult, just pay attention to what your doing. Once you know the location of the lever for reinstall, you can move it back and forth to feel the travel and check for binding. If it is binding you can try the cleaning procedure first if you have the cleaning port, but you may end up with a new turbo anyway. Whatever you do, do not hook up the batteries and/or cycle the key with the motor off the turbo. The motor will move out of the last known position and without the alignment procedure from the dealer scan tool you will never get it back to the correct position.
For a good reference, look at the photos here. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...96475-how-6-7-exhaust-brake-works-photos.html
In the full boost photo you can see the black Sharpie mark (just left of the red oval) I used to mark the lever location. You can mark it like that or measure to the edge of the lever to a location on the housing.

 

[gtoli]

Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks SAG. Also, to give you a little background on my problem. I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold to install a Pyrometer. I was careful and used grease on the tip of the bit and tap to catch as many shavings as possible. When I drove the truck on the interstate after the install, it went into a regen cycle with the EVIC indicating 80%, etc. This is only the second time in 1 1/2 years that I've seen this. During the regen I saw the EGT rise to just over 1600*. I immediately backed off and it dropped down and finished the regen. Shortly after I got a CEL. When I pulled the codes, with my Edge Insight, I got P0471, P2262 and P2563. Also noticed with the key on and engine off, there is a high pitched whine coming from the area of the turbo. The pitch chages every few seconds, like an electric motor or actuator is trying to cycle. The noise along with the codes makes me think the sleve is sticking, or stuck. Is it possible that there is soot buildup in the turbo and the timing with the pyro install is just a coincidence?



To answer your question Ron, I'm not sure how the dealer will react to me drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold. I will take it to the dealer before I do anything, just in case they honor the waranty. Just researching and getting info together in case I have to become my own warranty station. If I do, then the gloves are off and I will probably do the standard deletes. At least I can try and make the best of what could be a bad situation.

 

[RVTRKN]

I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold to install a Pyrometer.

That's why I don't have a pyrometer on my C&C, I will be removing my exhaust manifold when I do. It seems like you have got shavings in the mechanism on your VGT. Hopefully Dodge will take care of it.

 

[gtoli]

That's why I don't have a pyrometer on my C&C, I will be removing my exhaust manifold when I do. It seems like you have got shavings in the mechanism on your VGT. Hopefully Dodge will take care of it.

If I knew then what I know now.



No point in worrying over what's been done. Just have to make the best of it and consider it a lesson learned.

 

[sag2]

If that is all it is, you might try and unstick it. It isn't that much work. Worst case if needed you can always disassemble the turbo as in the photos in the link.

 

[gtoli]

I'm mechanically inclined enough that I'm not afraid of pulling the turbo, just don't want to void the warranty. Maybe I'm wrong, just think pulling those parts might be frowned upon by the waranty gods? If not I might just do that and may need a little more advice about how to properly remove the turbo.

 

[gtoli]

The truck is at the dealer. Although they haven't started on it as of the end of business today, the general concensus is that it is a soot issue and should be a warranty repair. Will update when I find out.

 

[gtoli]

Got the truck back saturday, with the new turbo replaced under waranty. Runs like a new truck. All I can say is it feels as if it had been slowly losing power over the last few weeks and I barely noticed. Always figured it was de-tuned a little with the latest program flash when at the dealer for recall work. Got to look at the old turbo, they are big buggers, and noticed the tips of some of the turbine blades were chipped/damaged. Could this be from the excessive heat I noticed during the regen just before the DTC's and CEL?



Anyway, I'm glad to have my truck back!



Thanks for all the advice, will keep it filed away for when I need it.