A/C Blows Warmer air on Passenger side

[ARedmon]

My 2005 Ram 2500 has started blowing warmer air out of the 2 vents on the passenger side. When my wife first told me that her vents were'nt blowing but slightly cool air, I didn't believe her because the two on my driver side were quite cold. Then, I felt the air coming out of her side and there was quite a difference. My side was flowing very cold air; her side was blowing only mildy cool air and definitely not keeping her cool in the 104 degree temps! Anybody know what would cause this and how to fix it?

 

[chipster]

I hope someone answers. My 06 is doing the exact same thing !
Thanks in advance,
chipster

 

[jhenderson]

When mine does that, I need to add a little refrigerant.

 

[HHhuntitall]

When mine does that, I need to add a little refrigerant.

< x2. Don't know why one side is cooler, but it's that way, even without the dual climate control.

 

[ARedmon]

jhenderson; you mean if it's low on R134, it will start blowing warmer air out of the passenger side vents only?

Can you tell me where the input side connection is to put some more R134 in it?

 

[NavyDood]

Mine was doing the exact same thing in Aug last year. My first thought was the blend door until I did some reading and looked in the FSM. Everything pointed to low freon. Hooked up my HVAC gauges and my pressures were low. It took a can of R134 to get everything back to normal.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Attn TDR staff. We need an A/C sticky thread for 3rd Gen trucks.

 

[jhenderson]

Pass side , near the inner fender , towards the firewall. Unthread the plastic cap on the line, and the 134 connector will snap onto the fitting.

 

[JJPage]

The evaporator ductwork is split driver's side to passenger side, top to bottom, the passenger side is fed off the top half. When the refrigerant charge is low, it has already boiled completely off by the time it reaches the top half of the evaporator, not able to absorb anymore heat.



Mine is doing the same thing, plus icing up and reducing airflow. If I shut the compressor off for about ten minutes, while continuing to run the fan, it thaws out and is good for another half hour. I need to pick up some 134a tomorrow, thanks for the reminder.

 

[ARedmon]

Thanks guys! Thanks especially to jhenderson and JJPage! I see where the connection is and I'll pick up a can of R134 plus oil tomorrow. Until JJ's reply, I was bumfuzzled as to how low freon would make a difference between the two sides of the truck! You guys are great!

 

[rscurtis]

Be sure you don't buy something that also contains sealer.

 

[ARedmon]

Thanks for the tip, rscurtis! I've never added freon to the truck but I have on my cars over the years. I usually just find a can of freon plus oil. I guess the sealer is a "no-no?"

 

[rscurtis]

AFAIK, the sealer works fine, until you open the system again. As soon as it's exposed to air, it seals the system into an unserviceable mass.



It's intended for an old clunker where you just want to get one more summer out of the AC.

 

[sag2]

Read the label closely as almost all the 134 at Wal-Mart and many auto parts stores contain some type of sealer or conditioner.

 

[roger935]

Warm AC air pass side

2003 had that problem and was made aware of lots of blend door issues. Mine checked out and added 134 and it blew 40-45 F hours on end pulling a 5th wheel with outside temp being over 90. Prior to that it started out cold but would warm up to 65 F out of both sides after 2 hours.

 

[Crunch]

Since this question pops up every summer, it's once again time to mention the Walmart product that works well if all you want to do is check and add R134 to make it through the summer. It's the "EZ Chill Deluxe R-134a Recharge Hose and Gauge" (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Deluxe-R-134a-Recharge-Hose-and-Gauge/16888796). Just make sure you purchase the stand alone unit and skip buying the one with the can of R134 included because it contains the sealer. It's easy to use, and the hose and gauge can be stored under the seat in case you are on the road and need to recharge. I think it's around $20, or was the last time I checked. It won't fix the problem, but it's a money saver if you only need to recharge your AC once or twice a year. Just make sure you don't overcharge your system. It's also probably better to use the Dodge specs for recharging, rather than those included on the package. According to the `03 Dodge Repair Manual, the charging specs are:

Ambient Air Temperature/Compressor Inlet Pressure at Service Port (low Side)

21° C (70° F)/(20 to 30 psi)

27° C (80° F)/(25 to 35 psi)

32° C (90° F)/(30 to 40 psi)

38° C (100° F)/(35 to 45 psi)

43° C (110° F)/(40 to 50 psi)

Because you don't want to overcharge the system, my philosophy has been that it's better to charge it on the hottest days so the pressure is not likely to go higher than what you put in.

 

[brillmtb]

Mine is doing he same. My brother in law is an expert in large refer units and such. He warned me not to top off especially in modern AC systems that are more sensitive to errors in getting to the right volume. The only right was in his opinion to do this is to take out old and replace with exact volume called for by the dealer and add a leak detector. That is what I am going to do. Local dealer cost some 250. 00, local private shop 120. 00 for the same thing.