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Must have raised the boy right!

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The only lack of power I have noticed, is when pulling heavy and fighting small rolling hills at the 55MPH speed limit. But when at 2000 RPM at 70 MPH I hardly notice them.

Again, a 68RFE equipped truck isn't going to be running 2000 RPM @ 70 MPH with 3. 73 gears. 2000 RPM with a 68RFE truck is either going to be 74 MPH (4. 10 gears) or 82 MPH (3. 73 gears). Our situation is radically different than yours. With your G56 transmission, your truck in 6th has an overall gear ratio that's lower (higher numerically) than a 68RFE truck with 4. 10s.

Rusty
 
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Do you like the truck as it is (beside the 3. 73 gears)? I don't think you will have a big difference in towing with the auto trans and 4. 10 gears. Your trailer is only 11,000lbs. The programming in the trucks modules will keep the engine at the correct rpm for the load conditions when towing. If this was a manual trans, I would say the 4. 10 gears are needed, but the auto trans will down shift and get the engine to the correct rpm. Also, if you get Chrysler to change out the axles, you may cause more problems (down the road) for yourself.
 
WOW!!! gone up in price sense 04

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I am a weekend warrior that tows 42 foot 16-17k toy hauler with 3. 73 gears and the 68RFE. I live in Colorado where we have some real passes, steep hills and wind. The truck is not unpowered it pulls great, the 68RFE always puts the truck in the correct gear based on the load. 4. 10 gears would be better if I was towing full time, but the 3. 73 are a good compromise for me, as I also drive empty during the week.
 
My combined load of 27,000# with 3:42 gears tows great. 55 on 6 percent grades in third 2,800rpm.

FYI at 104 mph I am turning 2,300 rpm. It is so smooth at that speed my wife did not even notice! That is all the speed limiter will allow.

If that is what you ordered I would have them change the gears or give you $3,500, that is what they wanted to swap the front and rear on mine to 4:10.
 
Again, a 68RFE equipped truck isn't going to be running 2000 RPM @ 70 MPH with 3. 73 gears. 2000 RPM with a 68RFE truck is either going to be 74 MPH (4. 10 gears) or 82 MPH (3. 73 gears). Our situation is radically different than yours. With your G56 transmission, your truck in 6th has an overall gear ratio that's lower (higher numerically) than a 68RFE truck with 4. 10s.

Rusty
Rusty, again I never have posted that his truck would be exactly the same as mine, and mine is an apple to his orange. I'm just pointing out the fact that is my trouble with the 3:73 and that it is a minor nuisance to me in my unique situation. If he does keep the 3:73's he will probably come to the same conclusion that the truck will perform to his satisfaction except in a unique situation, what ever that may be. Again, the cost of changing the gears are far more expensive than its worth, but that will be up to Lawdog to decide or Dodge if they rectify the situation.

My combined load of 27,000# with 3:42 gears tows great. 55 on 6 percent grades in third 2,800rpm.

FYI at 104 mph I am turning 2,300 rpm. It is so smooth at that speed my wife did not even notice! That is all the speed limiter will allow.

If that is what you ordered I would have them change the gears or give you $3,500, that is what they wanted to swap the front and rear on mine to 4:10.
Careful, you might bring the wrath of Hsmartash down on you for over revving that CTD. :-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf
 
Well Chrysler offered a couple options, Swap axles or a $3500 Trade In Bonus voucher for when I get rid of the truck. NOW to decide... . I read a lot of people increased their milage with the 4. 10 towing, BUT They are toing at a slower speeed so similar RPM as I would be running with the 3. 73, Around the 1750-1800 range. With the 4. 10 I will be running about 2000 RPM
 
Take the swap, as fast as you can, the 410 is a perfect gear for what your doing, just do it and be done, best of luck
 
You won't be convinced by our repeated urging but I promise you that once you make the gear exhanges you'll believe us and be happy.

There is a REASON why Ram engineers rate the 4. 10 equipped trucks with a GCWR several thousand pounds heavier than the rest.

You will not be forced to cruise at a lower highway speed or endure a high revving engine like the old trucks of many years ago. The MOPAR automatics provide two overdrive gears for that precise reason.
 
There are still some unanswered questions, IMO. Was the front axle a 3. 73 also? Was the 3. 73 ratio a mistake at the factory, or is it a new Max Tow option? If that's so, why does the Max Tow option still show the 4. 10 ratio? If it was a mistake, how did the factory install two incorrect axles?
 
I agree on the gear change. But, I would want in writing that all of the work is approved by Ram and will not negate any portion of your factory warranty. I know that in theory, there should be no issue since Ram is covering the work. But, there have just been too many odd warranty denial stories lately to take a chance.
 
Well Chrysler offered a couple options, Swap axles or a $3500 Trade In Bonus voucher for when I get rid of the truck. NOW to decide... . I read a lot of people increased their milage with the 4. 10 towing, BUT They are toing at a slower speeed so similar RPM as I would be running with the 3. 73, Around the 1750-1800 range. With the 4. 10 I will be running about 2000 RPM
I'm glad to hear you have Chrysler offering you a fix. If it were me I would take the axle swap, but only if they gave me a SATISFACTION GUARANTY. I would want to make sure they reinstalled correctly, there's nothing better than a factory installed option, just for that reason. Did they give you a time limit on your decision? Take your RV out for a hill climbing extravaganza and see what you think about it, load it to the max. The voucher seems like a good deal, but I would be weary of it, there's a lot of things that can happen in between your trucks life and the next time you go to purchase a new one. Of coarse you will like the swap and say to yourself the 4:10's are nice, because when towing you will have better power climbing grades heavy, but the 3:73's can do the job and I would not swap mine out for the 4:10's, mainly due to the expense. So did Chrysler make a mistake or there just honoring your order?
 
You're getting a lot of superfluous chatter. Your new differentials will of course be covered under the original factory warranty. Your truck is in warranty and the work will be done authorized by the factory in a factory franchised dealership.

A $3500 future discount could be worthless to you. When will you want to replace this fine new truck? Will Chrysler/Ram still be making trucks? Will Cummins engines still be in them? Will any American manufacturer still remain standing and building diesel powered truck following the elections this year?

In a time of such an uncertain future my advice is take their offer now and forget any future promises.
 
As for the Max Tow and the gear. Chrysler had, it appears, a change in the way the Max Tow Package is offered. Before it was ONLY available with the 4. 10. It was this way when we ordered the truck. NOW if you order the Max Tow Package, the dealer gets a pop up that says the 4. 10 is no longer standard with the Max Tow. So sometime between when truck was ordered and me receiving it, the changed it. According to the dealer it sounds as Chrsyler will send out 2 new axle assemblies which MUST be done at the selling dealer.



Of course now I am looking at possibly a job change and will have a 70 mile per day commute 35 each way all freeway, which the 3. 73 would be far better on. Some say things happen for a reason??? Yesterday i talked to a fellow race dad who has the 3. 73 in 2011 and runs the snocross circuit like we do. He pulls 8000+ where I pull 11,000. He said he would never go to the 4. 10 and he runs the same speeds we do, so now really jacked up Way over-tinking tis UGH... .
 
As you have read, there are many opinions that butt heads on this subject, some are a little over the top about the 4:10's. If your going to commute long distance empty, than keep the 3:73's and take the voucher. The only issue with the voucher is when you buy a new truck. Try asking for the difference in a cash refund from the Max tow vrs the standard cost, seeing how it was the reason you purchased the Max tow. Try to get them to let you use the voucher to service the truck if the latter doesn't work. on edit, what happens if the mech screws up the job then your stuck with a major headache.
 
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As quiet as the new trucks are and the fact that the double overdrive really drops the RPM anyway I would stick with 4:10s. I doubt there is much difference in mileage between the two - probably more dependent on your right foot and your cruise speed. I had a 99 with 3. 54 (auto), then a 2000 with 4:10 (stick) and the two got practically the same mileage. With the new transmission you are much lower RPM wise than the 4:10 standard truck... with 11K in tow you will appreciate the 4:10s.
 
Ok..... Now I am TOTALLY confused. I just bought a 2012 that has the same sticker, "Max tow package" 4:10's but below says 3;73. My rpms are 2k @ 73ish MPH . Thats what my RPM's were in my 2002 CTD with 3:55. Someone on these forums had said that 6th gear gives you the same rpms as a 3:73 would have otherwise but that its 4:10's. The dealer told me that it was 4:10's but the sticker reflects what came standard.





Now, I recall in my youth we used to be able to tell rear ratios with no r/e tag by turning the wheel/tire one revolution, and the drives shaft should turn 4. 10 turns if its 4:10? correct????



I'll have to jack mine up to be sure now.



I have the same concern about towing my 16. 9K 5th at 1700RPM or so at towing speed.



Now 5th gear mimicks what my 4:10 was like with my 2005 NV 5600, but I dont really want to drive around in 5th either. .
 
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