Shaking while braking even with new Front Rotors

[Kry226]

Will it take a sledge hammer and a lot of beating to get the rusty ones off? Some of the stories I've read sound brutal.

Thanks too Bob4x4 for your help with this.

It's usually salt water or road treatment chemicals (salt) that exacerbate rusting issues. Where you're located, unless the PO ran the truck at the beach, I bet they'll come off easily.

 

[Boaring1961]

I have some PB Blaster so I might try and spray some in there each day over the next week and pray it soaks in and I can get them off. If I can get them off I'd rather just replace the rotors versus turning them. I'll update this thread after I get it done and let folks know if it cured the shaking and shuddering.

Thanks guys!

 

[cerberusiam]

Your not going to get spray into where it is jammed very easily without removing the calipers. More chance of getting fluid on the brake pads and causing braking issue than hitting the tight spots.



The rotors are held on with 3 washers pusher over the studs. Normally, once you remove them and calipers a couple smacks with a shot load or small sledge will knock the rotors loose. Unless you have been soaking them in the ocean you should not have much of any corrosion problems.



Rotors front and rear can cause all manner of vibrations and shaking on or off the brakes when they warp. The OE rotor is relatively soft and tends to warp with the heat, front or rear. Since you are having issues replacing the calipers at the same time is a good idea. A lot of shops will not do anything but a loaded caliper because of the problems associated with the calipers hanging. If they don't work smoothly all manner of issues can crop up.



Depending on where your vibration is when you step on the brakes, it could still be worn part sin the front end. You should be able to tell if it is in the steering or the seat.



By the second time the front pads are replaced it is time to do the rears and check the rotors for warpage. Mileage will depend on driving habits and usage so its not a given.

 

[rbattelle]

Apparently you retired before Fiat took over... . we now are seeing a lot of rear rotor issues with our cars

I wonder if foreign manufacturers have their brake effort set 50/50 front/rear lately. I just recently did a brake job on my 2007 Accord and was astonished to find that the rear brake pads had the same wear on them as the fronts! In my day, the rear brakes almost never wore out for the life of the car.

-Ryan

 

[mwilson]

I wonder if foreign manufacturers have their brake effort set 50/50 front/rear lately. I just recently did a brake job on my 2007 Accord and was astonished to find that the rear brake pads had the same wear on them as the fronts! In my day, the rear brakes almost never wore out for the life of the car.

-Ryan

It might make sense where the 4 wheel ABS is now pretty much a trouble free system. Why not split the load evenly on a passenger car.

Mike.

 

[Bob4x4]

With the advent of stability control our cars can do some amazing things,but like everything it comes at a price. Our chargers can get well over 70k on the oem brakes by the average driver,but rickey racer can eat them up in under 20k. Driving aggressily the computor takes over and will reduce torque or go to full on braking on any corner or all corners depending on yaw rates and other inputs to try to keep your *ss on the road. We will see how that works on our heavy Duties very soon

 

[Boaring1961]

So I was out today driving and made sure that when I stopped a few times to really try and tell where the shuddering was being transferred to. Stopping from 65 mph I could feel the shuddering pretty much everywhere, but it was really noticeable in the brake pedal. Guess I'm going to have to look at doing something with the rear brakes since the front are brand new.

 

[Bob4x4]

Don't assume the front is good just because they are new

 

[RMacneil]

Don't assume the front is good just because they are new

I couldn't agree more.

 

[JBallou]

His symptoms fit the bill of the rear rotors being warped. If it is the steering wheel shaking only it is the front. If it shakes your butt the rear is the main issue.

My truck did the rear shake for 50k, I knew that the rear had a bit of a shake and put a dial indicator to check the run out. The PO that had it for the first 12k did the rears in. It could only be felt on 1 local stop, down a hill from 55mph to a stop at the bottom. So I took the road of educated ignoring until it finally bothered me. New rotors and pads for the back fixed the issue.

BTW I have 3 friends that have the same truck as me and all have rear brake problems involving the right rear caliper locking up. 3 trucks same problem 3 different drivers. Weird for sure. But it was all on the OEM rotors and pads. No issues since.

 

[Boaring1961]

So I had the dealership today check the runout on the back rotors and they showed me with the gauge that they were somewhere between 0. 008 and 0. 010. He said the minimum is 0. 003 so I bought new rotors and pads and decided to do the replacement myself.



Does anyone know of a good internet source (i. e. text, picts or video) that shows or describes replacing the of the rear rotors and pads on our trucks. I've done most work on my truck to date, but I have never replaced rotors or pads on any vehicle. What I'd really like to know are there any things I need to look for or specific things I need to do (i. e. lubricating certain pieces, roughing up the rotors, etc. ) during the replacement.

 

[cerberusiam]

The slides are all that really need lubricating. You should grease with the shoes to do that otherwise you can pick it up at any parts store.

While you are at it plan on new or rebuilt calipers. The composite pistons in these calipers are finicky about heat and use. They like to jam and kill the pads and rotors.

With new rotors you should get new boots on the mounting bolt slides. A used caliper can have buildup or the boots ripped and that is a recipe for problems. If you use old rotors you will have to make sure those are not hung and move freely.

Pretty simple on the SRW's, just pull the banjo on the caliper and tie the brake hose as high as possible, pull the caliper and caliper mount, cut the stud washers and knock the rotor off. Assemble in reverse, remember bleeder valve UP, and bleed the caliper.

 

[S.Morris]

Up in my neck of the woods with the corrosive winter road chemicals I have very rarely seen the rear calipers be reusable on a pad change on any of the big three trucks. Even if freely compressed, those calipers usually sieze before the second set of pads are used up.

 

[Boaring1961]

How much are new calipers?

 

[cerberusiam]

Depends on what and where you get them. I have been getting mine at O'Reillys for about $55 per for remans.

 

[leadvilleram]

I had a rear caliper stick and overheated everything enough to fry the axle seal. It smelled like a big rig that had over used the brakes coming off a mountain pass. The smell is what alerted me to the issue. That resulted in diff. fluid leaking and contaminating the e-brake pads too. I replaced both rear rotors, pads, calipers, axle seals and e-brake pads. I was surprised at how much life was left in the pads... if they hadn't smelled like a charred log. I will be checking the lube in the slider boots regularly as I believe that's what hung up and caused the problem. The e-brake pad replacement was the worst part of the process, fighting with the springs and juggling the retainers. My rotors were pretty seized on to the hubs too, but since I was replacing them, I wasn't afraid of damaging them with the BFH. I ordered everything from Rock Auto.

 

[Boaring1961]

For the costs I don't think I cannot replace the calipers. Any thoughts on Napa brand calipers?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SEBSE5445_0248588605

I'm also seeing caliper described as either loaded or unloaded. What do our trucks need/want?


Cerb,

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like new calipers come with the new boots you were referencing.

 

[BigPapa]

Loaded means it comes with pads. Unloaded=no pads.

 

[cerberusiam]

As long as you can get the NAPA gold stuff with a warranty should be good. My local NAPA does not carry some of the Gold parts so went to O'Reillys that has the better quality.

All remans should have those boots replaced. If they don't take them back.

Loaded is with brake pads. If you already have pads then unloaded is what you want.

 

[Boaring1961]

Awesome. Thanks guys for the help. Well, I'll start gathering the parts and go for it.