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Any Experience with Reman Injectors

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Injector replacement

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Southbend #1947-0 clutch

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Bernie, general concnesus here on TDR is that reman injectors are NOT worth the money you might save over buying new ones.



Even though the price difference is substantial, so is the difference in how your truck will run vbersus buying NEW injectors from a reputable source, like TC Diesel or Exergy.



8 out of 10 times,a set of remans will NOT run within the balanced tolerances necessary for the fueling of your cummins.



This is not so much due to the complexity of the rebuild process, but rather the intricacy of the tolerances of the parts needed for overall balanced injector operation.
 
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The quality of workmanship is unknown and, for me, extremely risky. If a bargain basement ebay injector sticks open and melts the top out of a piston you're out an engine before you can turn off the key.

I wouldn't do it. Personally I would buy nothing but a new Bosch injector. Pricey but much safer.
 
i bought new bosch motorsports injectors for my truck and i have no experience with remans.
a dealer mechanic friend of mine commonly uses remans from penscola diesel when he does them on the side.
 
i bought new bosch motorsports injectors for my truck and i have no experience with remans.

a dealer mechanic friend of mine commonly uses remans from penscola diesel when he does them on the side.
 
I appreciate the input, and I agree, new is always best. However, with my budget currently it is not an option. I am looking for anyone that used the Dieselogic reman injectors to find out what their experience is. Thanks
 
I appreciate the input, and I agree, new is always best. However, with my budget currently it is not an option. I am looking for anyone that used the Dieselogic reman injectors to find out what their experience is. Thanks


If that's the case, then that I would recommend buying remans from Exergy, as at least they have the extensive experience and the test machinery to do the rebuild job as good as can possibly be done. TC Diesel may also have a line on quality remans.

But first, WHY do think you need to replace your injectors??
 
215k miles, and it will not start when cold unless plugged in. Even a 35 degree day it needs to be plugged in. Also, my crank time is long. I talked to several people, and they all said it is time for injectors.

Runs fine once it is started, but if it is a cold day I can't drive the truck to the movies, as it will not start after two hours in the cold.
 
Bernie,

"Talking to people" is not a very scientific way to determine if new injectors are required. My '06 was running good as new at 230k miles when I sold it on the original injectors.

I would recommend finding a dealer with a trained Cummins tech to run the cylinder contribution test and other diagnostics that might provide better analysis.

So-called "reman" injectors may not be any better than your current injectors, could even be worse.
 
Really if you just want to talk to people, then call Todd at TC Diesel. He is VERY receptive to, as well as VERY GOOD to diagnosing CR problems over the telephone.
 
215k miles, and it will not start when cold unless plugged in. Even a 35 degree day it needs to be plugged in. Also, my crank time is long. Runs fine once it is started.

That is a pretty good indication it is injectors. However, there is a possibility the cross over tubes have loosened. You MIGHT re-torque them and see better starting results. It may even last for more than a month. Only way to tell with more accuracy is run the return flow tests. Again, money out for no gain unless the shop will do it as part of the injector sale.

The re-man injectors are taking a chance. Given the known issues and the potential for damage, I would not do them unless you had an iron clad guarantee from the shop doing the work somebody else would eat expenses for damage. An injector stuck partialy open will melt a piston in less than 5 miles at road speed, and, you won't know it until until the the truck jerks or erupts with white smoke.

You might try replacing as many as you can afford now with new knowing you WILL have to do the rest in steps. It takes some time to cap injctors and find the worst ones for return flow but it might solve th start problem if you get the worst ones now. The rest are going to need done and its not protocol to do only some but it does work. Good luck with your decision.
 
That is a pretty good indication it is injectors. However, there is a possibility the cross over tubes have loosened. You MIGHT re-torque them and see better starting results. It may even last for more than a month. Only way to tell with more accuracy is run the return flow tests. Again, money out for no gain unless the shop will do it as part of the injector sale.

The re-man injectors are taking a chance. Given the known issues and the potential for damage, I would not do them unless you had an iron clad guarantee from the shop doing the work somebody else would eat expenses for damage. An injector stuck partialy open will melt a piston in less than 5 miles at road speed, and, you won't know it until until the the truck jerks or erupts with white smoke.

You might try replacing as many as you can afford now with new knowing you WILL have to do the rest in steps. It takes some time to cap injctors and find the worst ones for return flow but it might solve th start problem if you get the worst ones now. The rest are going to need done and its not protocol to do only some but it does work. Good luck with your decision.

How are "return flow" tests run? How does return flow id a bad injector? Who can perform them? Any skilled diesel shop or dealer only?
 
How are "return flow" tests run? How does return flow id a bad injector? Who can perform them? Any skilled diesel shop or dealer only?

C'mon Harv, spend more time in the techincal sections instead of running for political office. :-laf

Capturing the return flow from the head is the first test to run to determine id the injectors are bypassing to much fuel and dropping rail pressure cranking. It doesn't tell you if the injectors are bypassing the fuel or the cross over tubes leaking but high returns rates indicate an issue. Capping each injector in turn and running the test again gives you an approxiation of the flow contributed by each injector circuit.

That gives at least a starting place to look at for replacement or attention. Any shop that is competent with a CR system should be able to do this relatively easily. I have heard anywhere from $250-400 for the complete test, but, a lot of shops will put that toward inejctors IF they test bad. Every shop is different in how they want to approach it and what they will do.

TC throws a fit if you only want to buy 1 or 2 injectors, others will sell you what you want. In Todds defense, if it doesn't work he gets yelled at and threatened so he has a point. Shops can be picky about this also, especially if they have been burned in the past. You try to do somebody a favor and the next thing you know they are refusing to pay or suing because something ELSE happened when the bad ones were replaced and the others failed or did not like the extra pressure.

Doing it yourself is fairly easy with some knowledge, tools, and time. Without that, one is at the mercy so to speak of the all or nothing process. I do all my own work out of self defense. I shudder at having to take it to a shop cuz my experience has NOT been good.
 
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Thanks for another excellent explanation. Now I understand - for slow start issues consider volume of fuel being returned dropping rail pressure.

I have never claimed to be a mechanic or possess this level of technical knowledge. What little I know and understand is that of an experienced user.

Politicians run for office by telling their listeners what they want to hear. When I write in the political forum I'm telling most reader what they DON'T want to hear. I'm hoping to get a small few to open their eyes and change their views which are going to be fatal to our once great nation if continued.

I appreciate your taking the time to explain simple problems and tests used to id them. I don't know those things and I'm sure many others can benefit from your teaching also.

TDR has around 45,000 members. No telling how many more guest viewers. Only a few hundred of us routinely post.
 
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Thanks for another excellent explanation. Now I understand - for slow start issues consider volume of fuel being returned dropping rail pressure.

That is correct. The ECU will not even fire the injector until it sees a minumum pressure of 2-3000 psi. At 200 rpms cranking speed it doesn't build rail pressure correctly if there is high return rates, while, at 750 rpm idle speed and up its all good because the CP-3 is capable of over riding the hgh return rates. Truck runs fine once started, getting it started is the issue. Thats why hitting it with starting fluid gets them to start, speed sup the rpm as it combusts and raise the rail pressure to adequate levels and away it goes.

Same with plugging them in. The warmer it is the tighter the tolerances to build initial rail pressure and they start where they won't cold soaked. Big departure form the jerk pump engines that fired what they had for pressure even though it was low. The event was just late so it stumbled and smoked until the rpms came up.
 
I never tickle anyone's ears,At present I know 2 Members That went to the dark-side (Remans) that are Buying New ( 1 latest 2 months the other 16 months) ,I think the TDR may let this slip By,Starting 3-1-13 I will be running a sale on all NEW Genuine Bosch 2003-07 5. 9 Cummins,I only have 96 505s ,36 503s,I cannot post the Price, I only do this once or twice yearly. like always the core charge is waived for 14 Days after you receive the New replacement (Genuine Bosch).

Listen to Cerb and others trying to Help,Yes their are many components that can be rebuild to NEW spec's, In most cases 1 out of 6 Re-maned Injectors will fail, Killing the rest in short order,I cannot sell Genuine NEW Bosch in a Bosch box, they come in a bank form Bosch and Are remove and place in T&C Box or II,also the trade agreement does NOT allow it,I have sold 1000s of Bosch Genuine NEW injectors,Only 4 replaced,It sooooo rare I don't even turn them into warranty (Bosch), I ,just replace them. Bosch warranty is 1 year unlimited mileage,The facts are you cannot wear them out in 1 year,I think Bosch would extend the warranty to 2-3 years if the risk of contamination was NOT so High.
 
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