B&W Companion SLIDER Hitch.....

[CUMMINZ]

Without beating this issue to death let me explain my stand. With a single mounting point and a large footprint that the bottom of the hitch has the B&W historically has worked fine. There is no doubt that long time users have seen slight wear to the tubing and frame mounted slot for tubing. This slider hitch will positively grossly increase this wear. Although the large footprint sits tight to the bed floor I al sure owners can see rub marks on their truck bed. When you slide the slide back 8-10"s as you can see in my photo it will create a lever from center of kingpin slot to the tubing in the floor. Every severe movement laterally will begin to twist the hitch and twist the tubing slot.



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[RustyJC]

My concern as has always been with the B&W hitch is one mounting point. And with this swinging hitch it will over intensify the strain on the single point. I am sure B&W engineers have figured out all the stress points and they are satisfied there is not an issue.

I suspect that the B&W engineers have run their FEAs and the hitch ratings reflect their efforts to maintain these stresses at acceptable levels. To wit, the gooseneck hitch is rated at 30K lbs, the non-sliding Companion hitch at 18K lbs and the sliding Companion hitch (if the figure mentioned previously is correct) is rated at 16K.



Rusty

 

[RVTRKN]

Cumminz, I see your point and can can agree, I think we are mixing apples and oranges here though. Anyone using a slider that much to cause wear, under high stress conditions is probably recreational users. A hotshotter hauling goose or 5vers with high mileage would more than likely not even consider a shortbed requiring a slider hitch. As I look at your pics, there appears to be some kind of bolt or pin at tailgate end to secure the arms. I think we're not getting all the info.

 

[goodguys75]

I am not a fan of the B&W hitch that uses the 2" mounting piece in the bed. I would think that with the new sliding hitch moving back and forth and at fully extended position is would certainly torque the 2" pin. Soon or later you may have a failure. I hope they have success with the new hitch.

no way you are tweaking that set up, even if you were to role over, i think that still would be totally intact and the rest of the truck destroyed... ..... they use heavy steel for there stuff... . and many people use there products without any problems.....

 

[Cummins12V98]

I am not a fan of the B&W hitch that uses the 2" mounting piece in the bed. I would think that with the new sliding hitch moving back and forth and at fully extended position is would certainly torque the 2" pin. Soon or later you may have a failure. I hope they have success with the new hitch.

Curious what you don't like about the B&W?

 

[Cummins12V98]

For one I would never own a short bed truck. For those that have one I recommend an extended kingpin with air bag like the TrailAire with the standard B&W that way there is much less chance for cab damage.

 

[RustyJC]

The problem, especially with a 8'6" (102") wide RV such as mine, is that the extended pinbox doesn't change the WIDTH of the RV. As you approach 90 degrees, unless you have over 4'3" (51") distance between the center of the kingpin bore of the hitch and the back of the cab, the RV will contact the cab due to its width. Extended pinboxes may delay this contact, but unless the front cap has deep cutouts and the stars align just right, contact will occur.



Rusty

 

[CUMMINZ]

Curious what you don't like about the B&W?

I don't understand your question. If you are asking what I don't like - I have already stated that. I don't like the single mounting of the tubing. That is not to say it is inferior but I just don't like it.

 

[BIGNASTY]

The problem, especially with a 8'6" (102") wide RV such as mine, is that the extended pinbox doesn't change the WIDTH of the RV. As you approach 90 degrees, unless you have over 4'3" (51") distance between the center of the kingpin bore of the hitch and the back of the cab, the RV will contact the cab due to its width. Extended pinboxes may delay this contact, but unless the front cap has deep cutouts and the stars align just right, contact will occur.



Rusty

Rusty

I can see your point on the contact! But REALLY how many times have you had to jack the truck/trailer to 90 degrees to back into a spot. Im just asking!!!!! I haven't pulled a 5er into a campground but with our 32ft ball to bumper TT, a 90 degree back-in was never approached or even seen a spot that would be necessary to make a back-in with that much of an angle. Just curious we have been to quite a few National Parks and Many National Forest campgrounds in most of the Western U. S.



BIG

 

[RustyJC]

Big,



It doesn't have to be a full 90 degrees as the front corners of the RV stick out farther from the RV's kingpin axis than the sides (it's a triangulation thing - measure it if you doubt me) UNLESS the corners are cut back severely as is the case with some of the "short bed towable" RVs. Notice I said that the problem occurs as you "approach" 90 degrees, not once you reach 90 degrees. Typically, some one will screw up a truck cab when they need to cut just a little sharper than they had planned to back a long 5th wheel into a site (5th wheels require more input from the truck than a TT for the same trailer action because of the difference in pivot positions, and the longer the 5th wheel RV, the more truck input is required), or when they are busy looking down the side to miss a utility pedestal or a tree and lose track of how much RV cap-to-cab clearance they have left. That's why I said what I did about Murphy's law - no one sets out to hit the truck cab with the RV, but it still happens.



Rusty

 

[CUMMINZ]

Big,



It doesn't have to be a full 90 degrees as the front corners of the RV stick out farther from the RV's kingpin axis than the sides (it's a triangulation thing - measure it if you doubt me) UNLESS the corners are cut back severely as is the case with some of the "short bed towable" RVs. Notice I said that the problem occurs as you "approach" 90 degrees, not once you reach 90 degrees. Typically, some one will screw up a truck cab when they need to cut just a little sharper than they had planned to back a long 5th wheel into a site (5th wheels require more input from the truck than a TT for the same trailer action because of the difference in pivot positions, and the longer the 5th wheel RV, the more truck input is required), or when they are busy looking down the side to miss a utility pedestal or a tree and lose track of how much RV cap-to-cab clearance they have left. That's why I said what I did about Murphy's law - no one sets out to hit the truck cab with the RV, but it still happens.



Rusty

This situation is also multiplied when your truck is on a different grade than the RV.

 

[RVTRKN]

CUMMINZ, do you not like goose neck hitches, it's basically the same?

 

[CUMMINZ]

CUMMINZ, do you not like goose neck hitches, it's basically the same?

Yes I like goose neck hitches. I am planning to purchase a 14k dump bed goose neck this year but I will not use a ball. It will have a plate and 5ver type kingpin.

 

[HBarlow]

[h=1]GN5 Round Straight Coupler for Semi-Tractor[/h]Pop Up Hitch » Products » Gooseneck » Gooseneck Accessories » GN5 Round Straight Coupler for Semi-Tractor

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Old Price: $160. 00
Price: $160. 00
You save: 0! (0. 00%)
Shipping:$24. 00

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[h=4]Quick Facts:[/h]

• For trailers with 4″ ID round tube
• Standard S. A. E. king-pin with 10″ round bolster plate fitted to 18″ long square or round tube.
• Durable Black powder coat finish.
• Fits standard gooseneck trailer coupler tubes.
• Rated at 30,000 lb
• 7/8″ holes thru both sides

Pull your gooseneck trailer with a semi-tractor or pickup mounted fifth wheel.
Simply replace the coupler with a king pin. Easily switch back and forth.
2" SAE king pins are the industry standard and are suitable for use in all over-the-road applications.

 

[CUMMINZ]

[h=1]GN5 Round Straight Coupler for Semi-Tractor[/h]Pop Up Hitch » Products » Gooseneck » Gooseneck Accessories » GN5 Round Straight Coupler for Semi-Tractor



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Old Price: $160. 00

Price: $160. 00

You save: 0! (0. 00%)

Shipping:$24. 00



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[h=4]Quick Facts:[/h]

• For trailers with 4″ ID round tube
  
• Standard S. A. E. king-pin with 10″ round bolster plate fitted to 18″ long square or round tube.
  
• Durable Black powder coat finish.
  
• Fits standard gooseneck trailer coupler tubes.
  
• Rated at 30,000 lb
  
• 7/8″ holes thru both sides
  

Pull your gooseneck trailer with a semi-tractor or pickup mounted fifth wheel.

Simply replace the coupler with a king pin. Easily switch back and forth.

2" SAE king pins are the industry standard and are suitable for use in all over-the-road applications.

Thanks HB that is what I was looking for.

 

[RVTRKN]

CUMMINZ, check out the link for the strength of the B&W, there are several wrecks with pictures if you look through it all. I'm not trying to sell it to you, just want you to see its safer than you think. BTW, I'm not affiliated in any way with B&W, except that I own the bed and companion hitch.







http://www.turnoverball.com/blog/b%26w-happenings

 

[Wingate]

For one I would never own a short bed truck. For those that have one I recommend an extended kingpin with air bag like the TrailAire with the standard B&W that way there is much less chance for cab damage.

My inital idea was to have the Reese Sidewinder pinbox installed on the camper, then I could use a standard B&W Companion hitch... . Problem is, while a Jayco can be ordered with one from the factory, it CANNOT be installed at the dealership level without warranty implications. SO, im stuck with the standard pinbox. While a SB truck is not ideal for 5ers, mine has less that 60K miles and has been paid for since 2009. I am nt willing to replace a perfectly good truck just to upgrade to a 5er for weekend camping. Add to that I have already been out the expense of the B&W turnover ball hitch as I have several GN trailers... Naturally, I went looking for something built by B&W, and turned out, I needed a slider system for those random occasions that I will most assuredly encounter when camping. .
FWIW, I pulled a mid 90's Jayco Designer Series 5er for 3 years with a shortbed truck and a standard rail mounted hitch and pinbox... Personally, I believe one has to be aware of your particular rigs limitations.

 

[Wingate]

For one I would never own a short bed truck. For those that have one I recommend an extended kingpin with air bag like the TrailAire with the standard B&W that way there is much less chance for cab damage.

My inital idea was to have the Reese Sidewinder pinbox installed on the camper, then I could use a standard B&W Companion hitch... . Problem is, while a Jayco can be ordered with one from the factory, it CANNOT be installed at the dealership level without warranty implications. SO, im stuck with the standard pinbox. While a SB truck is not ideal for 5ers, mine has less that 60K miles and has been paid for since 2009. I am nt willing to replace a perfectly good truck just to upgrade to a 5er for weekend camping. Add to that I have already been out the expense of the B&W turnover ball hitch as I have several GN trailers... Naturally, I went looking for something built by B&W, and turned out, I needed a slider system for those random occasions that I will most assuredly encounter when camping. .

FWIW, I pulled a mid 90's Jayco Designer Series 5er for 3 years with a shortbed truck and a standard rail mounted hitch and pinbox... Personally, I believe one has to be aware of your particular rigs limitations.

 

[Wingate]

I am sure B&W engineers have figured out all the stress points and they are satisfied there is not an issue. Thousands of products have failed after engineers have approved them.

View attachment 84872

Wow... youre a glass half empty guy huh... that could be said about any hitch, including those you are currently employing...



If it fails, B&W can buy me a new camper and a truck. .

 

[CUMMINZ]

CUMMINZ, check out the link for the strength of the B&W, there are several wrecks with pictures if you look through it all. I'm not trying to sell it to you, just want you to see its safer than you think. BTW, I'm not affiliated in any way with B&W, except that I own the bed and companion hitch.







http://www.turnoverball.com/blog/b%26w-happenings

RV those are some great looking photos but they do not represent the scope of what this thread is about. The B&W gooseneck hitch used as a ball/gooseneck hitch is the strongest type towing that can be done. There is no raised connection point. The ball is down at bed level just inches from the frame. The B&W companion raises the connection point maybe 9-11 inches or so and causes a lever of sort. Then you add adding a backward connection of the slider you probably have increased the connection by more than 12 inches. If the slider would have been used in those photos it could have very well lost the trailer had a killing. When B&W posts several wrecks with the slider then come back to me and rub it in.