Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Torque Converter Lock and Unlock Problem

[GregBarnes]

I've done a lot of research on the torque converter lock and unlock problem that so many of us have experienced as I have the same issue with my truck.



The problem started several years ago and was easily remedied by cleaning the grounds. That lasted for about a year and the problem became more frequent. I then purchased a DTT noise filter and again... the issue went away for about a year. Now the problem is back. Here's what I've tried lately..... replaced the APPS, modified the ground off the APPS (the Suncoast modification), replaced the transmission speed sensor, separated the battery charge wire and routed along the radiator as suggested, rerouted the negative battery wire that had previously run through the front harness to a position along the rear firewall as suggested and replaced the alternator.



All of these modifications would have some affect for differing periods of time but the torque converter lock and unlock problem returns. It's not as bad as it once was but bad enough to need to correct it. Other than installing a triple disc converter... what can I do?? I don't have any codes that appear when I use my scanner.



1999 Dodge Ram 2500, 4x4, Banks Power Pack, 75 hp injectors.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

I am convinced that there is no lasting solution to this problem. I have done all of the mods’ you noted and as recent as yesterday my ’99 is still prone to periodically continue lock / unlock. I have noticed tho’, the truck is more likely to do this when there is high humidity and running the A/C with fan at max. Best of luck and shame on Dodge for never addressing a permanent fix.

gregg

 

[fox]

I feel the source of noise should be corrected at the alternator. I no longer have my truck--2002, but I was going to connect an ossiciscope at the alternator and try several filters. Maybe even make one and offer it for sale.

 

[JLandry]

Buy and install a NEW (not rebuilt) alternator. You can find them on eBay for about $100.



John L.

 

[BDaugherty]

http://www.dnrcustoms.com/performanceparts/2ndgen9402cummins.html



I installed the kit in the link above for one of my customers and he loves it. He has a '95 2500 4x4 with a 47RH that has been rebuilt several times by transmission shops trying to cure the lock/unlock problem. The kit goes on in under 30 minutes and can come right back off without a trace if you change your mind. It has a potentiometer that replaces the APPS. The potentiometer is installed in the cab and is meant to be adjusted to the driver's liking and left alone. My customer like to adjust his on the fly depending on load and road speed. His engine is a stock 240,000 mile 12V with the stock fuel plate moved forward and minor adjustments to the AFC. All in all, it's the best $40 he ever spent. (His words)



*edit* I just realized that the OP had a 24V truck and this kit won't work due to the electronic engine needing a TPS signal to operate.

 

[GregBarnes]

John... yyou may be right... . I recently added a rebuilt alternator and although the bench test shows good... there's lots of possibilities for noise being introduced in to the system especially if the slip rings arent new or turned.

 

[GregBarnes]

Good point... I've noticed that too.

 

[GregBarnes]

Wonder what would happen if I replaced the PCM??

 

[JTitone]

The TC lock and unlock seemed to be getting worse each day I drove my truck. So today I installed a noise isolator that I purchased from Geno's. So far so good as the problem seems to have gone away. The real test comes tomorrow as I'm heading to South Carolina from New Hampshire. Keeping my fingers crossed that this will be the final fix.

 

[jimdavidson413]

My truck had the same problem, and I ran ground wire from both battery negative sides to the PCM ground, checked and cleaned all grounds, etc and nothing worked. I tried the Goering's box to the PCM ground and the alternator wire and it did not work either.

The problem is Dodge installed a unshielded wire from the alternator to the negative wire to the passengers battery to the ground wire to the trans PCM. The solution, shield this top alternator wire and the RF interference issue is solved.


I RESOLVED THIS PROBLEM FOR $2. 55.
I went to Wal Mart and bought a box of ALUMINUM FOIL, read about this trick on a website years ago. Yes that is right, THIS FIX IS NO JOKE. The top wire on the alternator is black with a white stripe. I wrapped aluminum foil around this wire, from the top alternator wire to the wire connector at the negative side of the passenger battery. After applying 3" wide strips of ALUMINUM Foil, SEVERAL LAYERS, to this wire, I wrapped it with black electrical tape and it worked.
I pulled a 5th wheel from the GA mountains to AL right after I did this, the same day and no problems since (9/10/2012). LAUGH IF YOU WANT BUT IT WORKED!
Dodge finally fixed this wiring problem by installing shielded wire inside of this wire from the factory. Only took them several years to figure it out.


BTW, Garmon, has an alternator with an external voltage regulator for $305 per there website that is supposed to fix this. I would have bought one but there were closed on that weekend and I could not order one on line. Any way I saved $300.


1999 Cummins, 206,000, 4 door, 8 ft bed. 2 x 4. Banks 4" exhaust & intake, Quadzilla,pac bags, fass, blinstien,3 pillar gauges, 5th wheel, 95 gal transfer tank, custom paint, PML tran and rear end covers, front stabilizer. Cell: 678-468-8944.

 

[jimdavidson413]

PROBLEM: Dodge installed an unshielded wire from the alternator to the negative wire of the passengers battery to the ground wire ofOo. the trans PCM. The solution, shield this top alternator wire and the RF interference issue is solved.

I tried all the ground wires, PCM, APPS,connections etc, and all the other ideas you all stated above with no luck. Even tried Goerings PCM/Alternator ground wire fix and it did not work either.

Found this fix several months ago on a website. Fixed the problem for $2. 55!!!!!Oo.
Went to wal mart and bought some ALUMINUM FOIL. STOP LAUGHING. :-laf I wrapped the top wire (ground wire) from the alternator that goes to the negative side of the passengers battery to the ground wire of the PCM, black wire with white stripe, with 3" strips of ALUMINUM FOIL, wrapped it with several layers of foil, and then wrapped it with electrical tape. NO JOKE IT WORKED. Oo. In fact after doing this repair a few hours later, I pulled my 5th wheel from the GA mountains to AL and back with no issues!!!

Also, Garmon, has a new alternator with an external voltage regulator for $305. It is supposed to solve this in/out issue. I would have bought one, but this happened on a weekend. Turns out I did not need it.

1999 Cummins, 206,000, 2 wd, 8 ft bed, FASS, Banks 4" exhaust and intake, Quadzilla, 3 pillar gauges, bleinstien, pac bags, 5th wheel, 95 gal transfer tank, PML trans and rear end cover, MB wheels,custom paint. Cell: 678-468-8944

 

[cerberusiam]

Wonder what would happen if I replaced the PCM??

That might be needed and maybe even a wiring harness. Cured our 01 by rerouting the wires but there is still a problem somewhere that only shows if you drive it in the rain long enough or thru a big puddle. I suspect wiring connections and seals are not what they should be and that is likely a lot of problems on these older trucks.

PROBLEM: Dodge installed an unshielded wire from the alternator to the negative wire of the passengers battery to the ground wire ofOo. the trans PCM. The solution, shield this top alternator wire and the RF interference issue is solved.

No, both wires are shielded and the ground wire that runs from the passenger side battery grounds the ECM no the PCM. Thats where the noise gets in to the signal to the PCM. The other issue is the shielding breaks down over time and is not as effective as new. The OP has removed both of those wires from the harness so what you are suggesting doesn't apply. It does work and for some it works quite a while. Others it won't even make a difference.

 

[Smoo]

Cured mine

That might be needed and maybe even a wiring harness. Cured our 01 by rerouting the wires but there is still a problem somewhere that only shows if you drive it in the rain long enough or thru a big puddle. I suspect wiring connections and seals are not what they should be and that is likely a lot of problems on these older trucks.







No, both wires are shielded and the ground wire that runs from the passenger side battery grounds the ECM no the PCM. Thats where the noise gets in to the signal to the PCM. The other issue is the shielding breaks down over time and is not as effective as new. The OP has removed both of those wires from the harness so what you are suggesting doesn't apply. It does work and for some it works quite a while. Others it won't even make a difference.

I ran a new wire from the - on the passenger battery to the fender, and no more problems unless the cables get dirty, and u 10 gauge or heavier wire!!!!

 

[GregBarnes]

Thanks all... . by coincedence while the problems were occurring I had replaced the alternator with a rebuilt alternator as my old one had gone out. Turns out that just added to the noise issue so after listening to all here I replaced the alternator with a NEW alternator... problem solved!!!! Even though the rebuilt alternator tested good... it produced noise and just shows the poor quality of a rebuilt alternator as I guess they replace bearings and diodes but do nothing with the slip rings.

In retrospect if this problem were to occur again I'd separate the ground and alternator charge wire, ground the PCM module to the negative side of the battery and clean all of the grounds at the battery and truck body as these are low cost to no cost fixes. If the problem continued and if the APPS and speed sensors are good I'd then replace the alternator as I did with a NEW alternator.

 

[GregBarnes]

Did you replace the alternator with a New alternator?? Dont use a rebuilt one. This fixed my problems when all else failed.

 

[JohnBoy5]

A new NON rebuilt altenator fixed my problem as well. mine would unlock at all speeds all the way up to 80 and even got so bad as to start going down to 3rd gear at 70... . I put the PA performance 180A on my truck. i did all the rewires, foil, noise filters and even made a few of my own noise filters with no luck... . btw i love having the extra current for all my junk i run!



edit: i didnt notice humid/wet hot air made the problem a lot worst.

 

[GregBarnes]

Problems back guys! Not sure where to go now!

 

[JLandry]

Problems back guys! Not sure where to go now!

Could the new alternator be the culprit? Might be worth having it tested for electrical noise.



John L.

 

[andyba20]

He's right

My truck had the same problem, and I ran ground wire from both battery negative sides to the PCM ground, checked and cleaned all grounds, etc and nothing worked. I tried the Goering's box to the PCM ground and the alternator wire and it did not work either.

The problem is Dodge installed a unshielded wire from the alternator to the negative wire to the passengers battery to the ground wire to the trans PCM. The solution, shield this top alternator wire and the RF interference issue is solved.


I RESOLVED THIS PROBLEM FOR $2. 55.
I went to Wal Mart and bought a box of ALUMINUM FOIL, read about this trick on a website years ago. Yes that is right, THIS FIX IS NO JOKE. The top wire on the alternator is black with a white stripe. I wrapped aluminum foil around this wire, from the top alternator wire to the wire connector at the negative side of the passenger battery. After applying 3" wide strips of ALUMINUM Foil, SEVERAL LAYERS, to this wire, I wrapped it with black electrical tape and it worked.
I pulled a 5th wheel from the GA mountains to AL right after I did this, the same day and no problems since (9/10/2012). LAUGH IF YOU WANT BUT IT WORKED!
Dodge finally fixed this wiring problem by installing shielded wire inside of this wire from the factory. Only took them several years to figure it out.


BTW, Garmon, has an alternator with an external voltage regulator for $305 per there website that is supposed to fix this. I would have bought one but there were closed on that weekend and I could not order one on line. Any way I saved $300.


1999 Cummins, 206,000, 4 door, 8 ft bed. 2 x 4. Banks 4" exhaust & intake, Quadzilla,pac bags, fass, blinstien,3 pillar gauges, 5th wheel, 95 gal transfer tank, custom paint, PML tran and rear end covers, front stabilizer. Cell: 678-468-8944.

Yall should do this exactly the way Jim describes. I did and it worked perfectly. It took 10 minutes and my truck is running like a banshee...

 

[BMelhuish]

Several weeks after replacing the alternator to address this issue (it did test bad), the problem returned. The new alternator did not test bad, so I decided to insulate the ground wire as described above. I also re-cleaned the battery grounds. I just returned from a trip without issue.

I'll be a monkey's uncle, but it does seem to work. Now, I used heavy duty non stick aluminum foil. It's what was in the drawer-probably made all the difference. I'm going to make hats next. :-laf Levity aside, any port in a storm. For appearance sake, I also used a flex tube over the now insulated wire.